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The Stealth BOMB'r is under the knife

Rich your still doing that get together thing in the March time frame next year right? I defiantly think I'll set up to visit a friend down in Georgia around that time. Just to use it as an excuse to drop by and see this monster in person as well as meet the owner.

Sigh of relief to see everything come to life trouble free I would imagine.
 
Yeah, I think we're going to push it back 2 weeks though, toward the end of March.

This year was still a bit cold and rainy.

Around the end of Sep / beginning of November, we'll lock in the date for the shop weekend.
 
I'd like to make this as well...but we do our spring GCDTA guns and diesels event somewhere close to that time frame as well...
 
I'll make sure to keep my eyes open for when you set up a date this fall for that GTG. I too would like to make a point to come on down that way in the spring.
 
Ozzie said:
So how long you gonna go until you test it's wings? The temptation must be killing you...
Click to expand...

Well, tomorrow I need to re-torque the head studs and valve lash and change the oil and then it's getting the power turned on.

It'll get another check at 500 miles and 100 miles and then it's game on.
 
Awesome. That works out too having it later in March than earlier. As long as my rig is in good order for a long trip I'm game.

This thread must have really brought you some business your way as well I would imagine. At least for those in you neck of the woods.
 
So here's what the cab looks like now.....more like a damn cockpit.

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This is why I did the oil pressure gauge. Tells ya a little different story than that dummy gauge on the dash.

PSI at idle.....

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PSI at 1000 RPM.....

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PSI at 1500 RPM.....

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BigBlueChevy said:
Awesome. That works out too having it later in March than earlier. As long as my rig is in good order for a long trip I'm game.

This thread must have really brought you some business your way as well I would imagine. At least for those in you neck of the woods.
Click to expand...

It's been busy, that's for sure.

I got my truck up and running on Monday and I've been non-stop since then on other trucks until last night.

Been in the shop until 10 - 11 each night trying to get them out. Finally caught up today.

I'll let ya know as soon as we lock in a date for the next shop weekend.
 
Awesome progress. Cockpit is right, good lord that is a lot of things to monitor. I really like the inclusion of the not-stock engine oil pressure gauge.
 
HOLY CRAP!

I turned the power back up last night and DAAAAAAAYUM!

Damn thing scared the crap outta me!

You wanna talk about pulling hard?......I only got into it half throttle from a roll and it was pushing me in the seat.

That new cam lights the chargers QUICK. The bottom end is nuts.
 
EBC GreenStuff 7000's and USR rotors went on today.

So far I'm impressed. After I got done bedding them in, they are certainly stronger than the stock brakes.....stronger than the tires, that's for sure.

I'll put the Ultimax rear pads on and turn the rotors later this week.

Here's the USR Rotors and GreenStuff pads.....

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This is before taking it out to bed them in.....

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This is after bedding them in.....

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83GMCK2500 said:
Rich, can you please explain what you mean by bedding them in?
Click to expand...

What you're doing is mating the pads to the rotor surfaces....it's like machining parts to fit together.

Initially, the pads and rotors are not "mated" to each other and what you're trying to do is quickly and evenly mate the surfaces so there's no contaminents to get between the pads and rotors while breaking them in.

What you do to bed them in is when you initially drive the truck, you want a nice, long stretch of road or a very big parking lot. You get up to about 45 MPH and make 5 - 10 moderate slow downs to between 5 - 10 MPH, but DO NOT stop. You don't want the pads and rotors to be staitionary during this.

Once you make the moderate stops and get the brakes warmed up, you do 8 - 10 HARD slow downs from 60 MPH down to 5 - 10 MPH, but again, DO NOT stop during this. This fully mates the surfaces and seats the brakes.

Once you get done with this, you want to drive the truck for a 10 - 15 minutes to let the brakes cool.

After this you're golden and you'll have full brake power.
 
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