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The "restification" of a 98 6.5 TD...

Engine cover:

DSC03819.jpg


:thumbsup:

Installed:

DSC03820.jpg


DSC03821.jpg


DSC03822.jpg


Ya just can't beat "basic black".

Only problem is, now I have to start detailing the rest of the engine bay.......:grumble:
 
Last edited:
Raptor is in the mail:

Class: Priority Mail International Parcels
Service(s): International Parcels
Status: International Dispatch

Your item left the United States from ISC LOS ANGELES CA (USPS) at 9:18 PM on July 13, 2010. Information, if available, is updated periodically throughout the day. Please check again later.
Click to expand...

I'm excited!

It like waiting for xmas!
 
The "concept" of my fuel delivery system:

fuel1.jpg


In a nutshell:

Cold fuel comes out of the tank and enters the 10 micron prefliter/preheater which warms the fuel with hot return fuel. I live in a cold climate and can be moved to a brutally cold climate at any time.

from the prefilter to the raptor 100 pump adjusted for 10 psi. GPH isn't even going to be an issue...

then to the stock filter manager and out through a FTB ver 2.0 to the Injector pump.

Hot return fuel returns to the prefilter to be mixed with the cold fuel, dependent on what the thermal control valve in my prefilter sees. If feed fuel is already warm enough, it bypasses to a fuel cooler before entering the tank.

I'll be removing the stock fuel pickup and installing a 1/2" pickup and the lines will be 1/2" where ever possible. I haven't decided yet if it will be hard lines of -8 fuel line. I prefer hard lines, but we'll see. I'll most likely need a 1/2" flare tool that does AN flares...probably not the easiest thing to find so -8 lines sounds likely...

I'll have a fuel gauge installed post FM to monitor pressures and filter health. Possible add a pre filter gauge in the future.

Only thing I haven't figured in is a dedicated water separator.

It's waaaayyyyy overkill for a stock 6.5 like mine. It's even overkill for the 300-ish hp I have in mind for it at final iteration.

But, I'm building it now so I'll spend the money once and do it right (and over built) rather than have to pull it out later a redo it if my plans change...

:thumbsup:
 
Turbine Doc said:
Hey GW plumb in a bypass around the cooler for when it gets cold out, a couple of tees and a valve close off inlet or outlet of cooler in winter months
Click to expand...

I'm thinking of putting in a thermal valve.

I know me, I'll forget about it if I make it manual and have it buried under the truck.

Not to mention:

I'm old and don't fancy the thought of crawling around in the snow or cold ground too much!

):h

The cooler is more about reducing the return fuel temps to help prevent condensation forming in the tank due to thermal effects.
 
You are too fast for me I was in mid edit when you quoted me, I'm not getting the logic in your line dwg, you are putting all return fuel back to suction side of the lift vs the tank ??? or is that the inlet side of the cooler?
 
Turbine Doc said:
1/2" line is overkill IMO Dmax is fed with 5/16" IIRC and we'll never move that much fuel with our setup, junkyard would be a good place to get rigid Dmax fuel line
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Yup, 1/2" sure is. Already mentioned that. My return is probably going to be 3/8". Overkill again.

Cost increase is minimal as I make my own hard and flex lines and I like to have lots of headroom, even if I never will use it. I may drop to a 3/8 line for the feed (and corresponding drop in return lines) though, mainly for ease of making fittings/flares.

here's a "thermal valve" diagram:

fuelthermal-1.jpg
 
Looking at your TV at some point until it opens it will be closed until it gets to temp, then opens what is return fuel doing when TV is closed I see a potential of return fuel backing up which isn't going to be good, or am I misunderstanding your thought
 
Turbine Doc said:
Looking at your TV at some point until it opens it will be closed until it gets to temp, then opens what is return fuel doing when TV is closed I see a potential of return fuel backing up which isn't going to be good, or am I misunderstanding your thought
Click to expand...

I have access to some "high zoot" aircraft stuff. ):h

Thermal valve will a shuttle valve arrangement. connected to return until it closes off and directs return fuel to the cooler.

Guess I should have been more specific knowing who was asking.....:thumbsup:
 
great white said:
I have access to some "high zoot" aircraft stuff. ):h

Thermal valve will a shuttle valve arrangement. connected to return until it closes off and directs return fuel to the cooler.

Guess I should have been more specific knowing who was asking.....:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

):h):h got it; I have what you are doing in my minds eye now :biggthumpup: , yeah I wish now I had cobbed on some of the "high zoot" stuff I once had access to when running the test cell. they don't use much of that over here in steam turbine land :mad2:
 
Little bit O' work done today.

I pulled the driver door panel off and swapped in my smooth outside door handle. I was going to swap in the 98 lock tumblers into the 89 handle, but the lock is seized solid. So now I have an ignition key and a separate door key again. :rolleyes5:

Well, I guess its' not so bad. Now I can hide a door key on the truck without leaving an ignition key there also.

I also swapped in my MB quart components while I was there and pulled out about 10 pounds of dirt and dog hair. The speaker magnet just clears the window when it's full down. The passive crossover is screwed to the door cassette in a nice pocket in the door panel. It all fits like it was meant to be there.

To bad the imaging sucks in the stock locations...
 
Forgot to add:

took my spare Fm and pulled the steel line out. Then tapped for the FTB ver 2.0 that's in the mail.:)

I also disassembled the unit and gave it a wire brushing, a cleaning and then shot the body in basic engine block gloss black...looks great! :thumbsup:
 
It's what you don't see that gets you...

Did you remove the rad and thourougly clean it? There's many posts about the benefits.

Here's the "compost" that I had in mine. It was a farm truck in a prior life...
IMGP1001a.jpg

This is what i was able to sweep up. Much more was washed away.

Since I did this, it never went past 185!
Cheers.
 
snoman699 said:
Did you remove the rad and thourougly clean it? There's many posts about the benefits.

Here's the "compost" that I had in mine. It was a farm truck in a prior life...
View attachment 15404

This is what i was able to sweep up. Much more was washed away.

Since I did this, it never went past 185!
Cheers.
Click to expand...

Didn't take it out of the truck.

I cleaned it with foaming cleaner and sprayed it out from behind after I removed the fan and shroud. Did this for what felt like 20 times. Same with the condenser core and the oil coolers. A thorough inspection of the core revealed it was clean and free (looked through each fin to see daylight behind).

There was the occasional rock (IE sand grain sized) that was wedged deep into the core, but they weren't coming out without distorting the fins so they were left.

I reshaped a few areas where the fins were bent over also.

It's grease and debris free otherwise.

I also took advantage of the opportunity to clean the front of the engine, the shroud and the clutch fan/blades.

Pretty soon I'll be able to at least touch the engine without getting covered in soot and grease everytime......:thumbsup:
 
great white said:
Little video on the diff between the original door buzzer (black) and the "new" door chime (butterscotch color) that I swapped in:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6Eidsu_BeA

Just with the key on and then key on/off.

Most guys just rip 'em out and are done with it. I need it in there because the wife drives the truck too and don't want her to forget the lights or something similar. The chime just sounds nicer.

Plus, I find it's the little things that make a vehicle more enjoyable. This is cheap, plugs right in and just upscales it that little bit....
Click to expand...

I located one!!! Mine came out of a 90 Pontiac Grand Prix GM part # 14101255 still a good # at GM parts - seems its about $30 (not too AWFUL bad)

Now I just need to find one more for the wifes burb :-)

ETA: Mine is dark brown in color, but similar in noise.
 
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