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The "restification" of a 98 6.5 TD...

Not much done today, found a heat shield on the passenger side manifold located between the manifold and starter than wasn't attached to anything! Just sitting on the manifold.

I chased out the threads in the block for the mount and found a bolt that fit. Bolted it all down and a "ting" that I'd been chasing is now gone.

The ol' girl gets a little better every day.....
 
Ordered the diesel fuel filter today:

We're having a Clearance Sale on this NEW Racor model MD57 diesel fuel filter/water separator for all applications up to 80 GPH or 440 HP.

The unique filter head has inlet/outlet ports to an integral thermal control valve (TCV) which controls the flow of return engine fuel either to recirculate back to the filter or back to the fuel tank. The TCV uses the heated engine return fuel to mix with incoming fuel. This action heats up the fuel filter to provide excellent cold weather protection against fuel gelling. A great benefit to those using Biodiesel, WVO and straight VO as well. The TCV opens at <15 ºC / 60 ºF and closes at 30 ºC / 90 ºF. The settings of the TCV are not adjustable.

You can also use the MD57 as a ‘standard’ unit without using the TCV feature, just plug the left side ‘Fuel Out to Tank’ (<-T) port, and the right side ‘Return Fuel from Engine’ Inlet (E<-) ports with the two (2) provided plugs. By-passing the TCV will allow the unit to work as a standard inlet/outlet type filter.

All fuel ports are metric M16 X 1.5 (ISO9974). The fuel ports from-and-to the fuel tank (T) are all on the left side -facing the unit below. The ports to-and-from the engine (E) are on the right side. Four (4) adapters are provided to convert the metric M16 ports to 3/8”NPTF female pipe threads and two (2) port plugs are provided if you choose not to use the TCV feature. We also include a listing of adapter fittings you can source from a nationwide manufacturer. Call the regional toll-free number to find a dealer closest to you.

The head also features a hand operated fuel priming pump. To vent trapped air, an air vent plug is also fitted. You can mount this filter on the vacuum or pressure side. Do not exceed 100 PSI (6.8 bar) on pressure side applications.

Note: The 10 micron Volvo element sold with the unit is not available for replacement as it is European OEM specific.

The ‘325’ Series reusable contaminant collection bowl features a self-venting drain and water-in-fuel (WIF) probe. The WIF probe must be used with a Racor water detection module (amplifier) to work properly. Order this from Racor

Note: Do not hook this probe up to live power! You must use the special Racor module as the WIF is used to measure ohms of resistance within the fluid. Also, you do not have to use the WIF and may install a ½”-20 drain plug instead. The Racor filter will work without this feature installed. If you do decide to use the WIF probe, cut off the special round connector (there is no aftermarket connector available) at the end of the harness and expose the two wires within the black ribbed tubing. Either wire may be hooked up to the Racor module (no polarity).

Specifications

Max. Flow Rate: 80 GPH / 300 LPH = Suitable for a 440 Horsepower / 328 Kw Engine

Max. Pressure: 100 PSI/ 6.8 bar Fuel Ports: M16 X 1.5 per ISO 9974 Center Thread Adapter to the Element: 1-14 UNS

Height: 15” / 381mm Width: 4 3/8” / 85.8 mm Depth: 6” / 152.4 mm Weight: 5 lbs / 2.04 Kgs. (shipping weight is 8lbs.)

Service Elements: S3225S (2 micron) S3225T (10 micron) S3225P (30 micron -element height is 5”) and also S3226 Series (available in 2, 10 and 30 micron -element height is 6 ¼”).

Thermal Control Valve: at <15 ºC/60 ºF, returns 90% fuel back to filter & engine, none back to the tank. At >30 ºC / 90 ºF, 100% fuel return to tank and none to the filter. (if the TCV ports are plugged, fuel flows only from the fuel tank, through the filter, and to the engine). Installation instructions included.
Click to expand...

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It's got some unique looking features on it, but to be honest, that's why I wanted it!

:)

It comes with the volvo 10 micron, but I'll swap it out for a S3225P 30 micron and install it pre lift pump for initial filtration...

Nearest I can figure, it comes off this: http://www.unicat.net/en/info/MD57-VolvoFM12.html
 
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Im sure you know, but you can buy some fittings that will go Oring seal x hose. Then you can avoid using those adapters and going oring x pipe then pipe x hose.
One less place to leak and a cleaner install.
I know raycor or marine supply will have them, also most any hose shop.
 
So, looking ahead to when I remove the turbo to do the injectors and glow plugs, I was thinking of cleaning up the turbo exhaust section and giving it a little sprucing.

I was thinking black barbecue paint.

Flat black, heat resistant goes right over rust and durable.

I'm settled on black as the heat shield is also black. Compressor stays natural Al.

Any other suggestions?
 
Yup, guess what I bought:

Untitled.jpg


I will tell you I paid 100 bucks for it, but I won't tell you where because it competes with a forum vendor.

But I will say it's available at a fairly common site for buying things on the web.

;)

It's more of a roll your own deal also as it's just the 'fuge, not a kit.

watch or an install writeup when I get it here and get around to fabbing it up...
 
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I dont think we have a rule like that. Post away.

What brand is it?
I have all the brackets, hoses, fittings...ect If you don't want to reinvent the wheel I would sell seperatly from my kits.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=22831

I can send the ones that still need bending, welding and drilling if you want to do some fab'ing.
 
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great white said:
Yup, guess what I bought:

Untitled.jpg


I will tell you I paid 100 bucks for it, but I won't tell you where because it competes with a forum vendor.

But I will say it's available at a fairly common site for buying things on the web.

;)

It's more of a roll your own deal also as it's just the 'fuge, not a kit.

watch or an install writeup when I get it here and get around to fabbing it up...
Click to expand...


Full discussions are allowed and even encouraged, only restriction is if it becomes a cheer-leading post same vendor over & over again, post after post of a vendor that isn't an advertiser here, also do not complete hot link say you could list dieselenginerepair.com leaving out the www or wwwdieselenginerepairdotcom just so the address does not actively take you to the site which becomes a free advertisement our vendors pay for ability to do we also don't post pricing of non vendors either so on that count I should edit that part, but since you didn't know I'll leave it unless I get a PM requesting I pull it
 
Burning oil said:
I dont think we have a rule like that. Post away.

What brand is it?
I have all the brackets, hoses, fittings...ect If you don't want to reinvent the wheel I would sell seperatly from my kits.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=22831

I can send the ones that still need bending, welding and drilling if you want to do some fab'ing.
Click to expand...

It's originally from a Canadian firm, Industrial Diesel Products Inc. Where they get it from.........:dunno:

Thanks for the parts offer, I'll keep it in mind if I need a quick "out" or get stumped.

But I do have access to a full machine shop and an a certified aircraft hose builder, so......

:)

Your kit does look nice and the spinner II is a known element, although the package is a wee bit past my budget at the moment...
 
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I've got a question for GW, Burning oil, or anybody that can answer it.

I am going on the assumption that because of the way these oil spinners set that they drain back down once the motor shuts off. I'm thinking about the possible mess when you disassemble to clean it out. I refuse to put a remote oil filter up by the motor somewhere because of the mess that can happen when changing the filter. The motor compartment gets messy enough without adding more ways to make a mess. That's just me, if there is a way to make a mess without trying i'll be doing that. I don't mind crawling under to change the filter since it is neccessary to drain the oil anyway.

Don
 
Its a pretty clean process. The oil does drain back to engine, so when you open up the centrifuge it does not come out. I use rubber gloves and brake cleaner and clean the rotor on the bench. It takes 5 minutes from start to finish.
 
Thanks Leroy! One more thing to add to my list of wants. It's getting longer and longer. Will the list ever get any shorter? Nah! I'm just a gadget freak. Always get intrigued by something new.

Don
 
Minor fix today after work.

My shifter has been flopping around lately. I took the plastic off the colum and the Torx screw had come loose.

While I was in there, I removed the shifter handle and took it in to the vice in the garage. I tightened it in and gave it a "whack" with the dead blow hammer. It put just enough of a "whoop" in it that it now sits just above the Auber EGT gauge when it drive, rather than the shifter sitting square in front of the display from the drivers perspective. Actually, the shifter handle actually sits level now when in drive.

Tightened the shifter back up, put the plastics back on and she's good to go
 
Beginning to plan out the feed system for fuel.

Looks something like this:

Stock fuel pick up unit - sock removed.

Steel line to the 30 micron racor with water bowl and return fuel heater.

Steel line to a y fitting.

Steel line (X2) to two parallel lift pumps. One stock unit, one aftermarket (undecided, but looking at raptor 100 GPH and Walbro FRB5). Both manually switchable on/off. Aftermarket pump will be relayed off the stock lift pump power feed.

Steel line to Y fitting.

In line fuel gauge fitting, electric remote to cabin guage.

Steel line to fuel manager with the standard flex line at the engine.

FTB from fuel manager to IP.

IP modified fitting.


All steel line will be 3/8 or 1/2 inch and pvf coated for rust protection. Don't know which size yet until I get into making the system and decide on a lift pump. Price is driving that choice as much as anything.

1/2 inch may be more than a bit of overkill and it'll definitely be necked down at the Fuel manager. But if I do get a raptor, it will support the diameter and leave more headroom for future improvements than my old IDI will ever use.

The stock pickup will have to stay for a while until I can source another one to modify for larger tubing....
 
looks like I'm going with 3/8 line for ease of installation and sourcing fittings.

More than enough with a Raptor 100 for my ol' 6.5 TD........

And yup, I am going with a Raptor, just have to find the right price.

So far, I've got an offer of 330 shipped for just the pump and 389 shipped for a full kit with full warranty.

Unfortunately, not one of the vendors here.

I'll probably just pop the 389 for the full kit....
 
Woot woot!

Injector showed up today!

They were the last pieces I was waiting for to tear the truck apart and do the bosch injectors, duraterms, warpspeed crossover pipe, thermocouple and centrifuge!

Gotta finish that pop tester now....;)

Hopefully, I get the Raptor ordered and on the way on 5 july.

After that, some gauges and a bit more chassis/body work, then on to the long block.

Lots of work to do this month....

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Did some weldin', some grindin', and some JB weldin' today.

The pop tester will be ready tomorrow after some cure time.

I hope these new injectors check out good.

Then, the truck comes apart....
 
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