• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

The "restification" of a 98 6.5 TD...

So, I finally got an "off" day from work.

I'll be looking at installing a "reel light" in my engine bay.

I took the one off my 89 and now it will be going on my 98. I pull them off GM trucks whenever I see them in the yard, they go pretty cheap and I've got a box full on the shelf in the garage.
I can't believe GM deleted those in the later years, I can't imagine a more useful option/tool.
I can't even count how many times and for how many uses I've had for it. I'm even thinking of putting one in the truck bed on the opposite corner from the one in the engine bay for complete "work light" coverage.

Piccy:

miscpics802.jpg


here's a link to info:

(removed, realized it was a retailer selling gm lights, so here's the writeup)

Back in the early '90s GM installed these lights under the hood of pickup trucks. This light is unique as it can be used as an underhood light, but also has nearly 20' of cable on it that can be easily uncoiled and wound back up with the included wind up mechanism. Use the light to reach all area's of the vehicle and there is even a magnetic back to the light once removed to allow hands free light. An integrated on/off switch controls its operation. Comes with correct harness, just needs 12v power and ground.
Click to expand...
 
Little video on the diff between the original door buzzer (black) and the "new" door chime (butterscotch color) that I swapped in:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6Eidsu_BeA

Just with the key on and then key on/off.

Most guys just rip 'em out and are done with it. I need it in there because the wife drives the truck too and don't want her to forget the lights or something similar. The chime just sounds nicer.

Plus, I find it's the little things that make a vehicle more enjoyable. This is cheap, plugs right in and just upscales it that little bit....
 
How cheap and where do I get that chime??? We have hated the buzzer for years... did not rip it out for the same reason as you....
 
Snagged a "short" bravada console with the newer display in it for 20 bucks.

I'm gonna find out if this MPG, etc stuff works in my truck one way or another.

I'm thinking not, I don't think these trucks read tank quantity other than the dash so it won't be able to calculate DTE....lord knows what else it won't do....or I could be pleasantly surprised!

:)
 
Added something today. Free cookie to the one who spots it first:

DSC03779.jpg


(no, it's not the battery charger!)

Checked out my vacuum pump and turbo diaphragm with the gauge and my mityvac. Everything is hunky dorey.

I also fixed my air cleaner housing. I've got the K47 high cap housing, but it had some issue from the PO. The fender adapter wouldn't "snap in", the box was floating around and the plastic bend to the rubber hose (turbo) wouldn't stay on (not good for filtering!).

So I pulled it all apart today.

The adapter had to be pulled off the housing (just a Christmas tree clip) and inserted into the fender first. After a couple minutes of fighting with it, a satisfying "snap" mean it was home. I couldn't even pull it out when I tried. Perfect.

Next, the box was loose on it's rubber mounts. A simple realignment fixed it up.

Then, time to address that pesky hose. I figured it was just loose or oily, but when I pulled the elbow out it all made sense. Someone had tightened the clamp down so far, they had crushed and indented the lower part of the plastic. Now, every time I would tighten it up, the bottom would slowly slide off (since it was no longer flat but beveled in) and pop off. Thus, negating any filtering done by the box at all!

A quick clean to remove some oily soot, then a trip to the heat gun. I re-flowed the plastic and used a socket to reshape it. Before it re-cured, I gave the edge a little push over to further reinforce the shape.

I loosened the clamp on the turbo, pushed it all into alignment again and tightened down both clamps.

It all fits great now, and no worries of unfiltered air making it in to the engine.

Like I said before, it's the little things that make a truck nice for me. Knowing everything is proper gives me a feeling of safety, security and pride of ownership.

Next up:

That egt gauge, thermocouple and a missing crossover bolt on the exhaust flange (causing an exhaust leak I've been hearing) I discovered today....
 
Well, I decided to at least mount the egt gauge today, even if it won't be working yet. Here's the skinny -

My CD player is no longer hooked up (ipod adapter took it's place) so the space in the dash seemed the perfect place for the EGT gauge.

But how to do it? That plastic dash isn't the greatest base to screw anything into and there's not a lot of structure in that area.

Let's look at that cd player again:

DSC03781.jpg


Hmm, the factory used push in plastic rails/clips. When I turn it over, I notice the cd player is actually screwed into a "tray" that holds the rails:

DSC03782.jpg


Unscrew the cd payer and I've got a great base to work with that fits like factory:

DSC03783.jpg


But, it's not long enough without the player to reach the bezel. Yippee! Gonna have to make something!

:thumbsup:

First, we need to know how much space we have to fill:

DSC03784.jpg


Ok, now to pull out my metal brake and bend up a bit of scrap aluminum:

DSC03785.jpg


There we go:

DSC03786.jpg


Let's see what we need to do to get it to fit together:

DSC03787.jpg


Need to cut a couple slots for the bracket to lock in to and then a nice short through bolt to hold it all together:

DSC03788.jpg


let's give 'er a trial fit:

DSC03789.jpg


Not bad. A little bit of tweaking will get it right on. Don't worry about the open space that's visible, we'll handle that is a bit. This is a bracket for support and strength at the moment, looks will come later.

Now we need to cut out the spot for the gauge:

DSC03790.jpg


A bit of careful measuring and some work with the drill press, jigsaw and metal files gets the gauge in nice, snug and clean:

DSC03791.jpg


Now, since this is going in the interior, we need to address the appearance. A piece of interior plastic from my old 89 is pretty close to the proper color and the same texture as the rest of the dash. Just need to cut and opening for the gauge:

DSC03792.jpg


Some careful rough work with the Dremel and finishing it to final size with swiss files gets 'er nice and clean. Then a little 3m "super 77" spray glue attaches it to the metal bracket. Clamp it together and give it 10 mins or so to firm up. Time for another fit test:

DSC03794.jpg


Not bad, but I still need to trim it a bit to get it in and under the dash bezel properly.

A final fit and clean gets 'er done:

DSC03796.jpg


DSC03797.jpg


(you can also see the extra "cargo light" switch I installed to us for my fast idle switch, just have to get rid of the lettering)

Now, all I need to do is install the thermocouple and wire it all up.

:thumbsup:

Almost good to go!
 
Last edited:
I would be interested in details on your extra cargo light switch.... I have a spare switch, and would like to do something similar
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top