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The "restification" of a 98 6.5 TD...

Oddly enough, I was thinking about relocating the FSD again just before Leroy posted, for much the reasons he listed (impact, rocks, etc).

I'm also somewhat concerned about water immersion (Umm, What?!? did he just say IMMERSION!?!) in that location.

I do believe I shall locate the FSD here:

DSC03740grillblur.jpg


It might be off to the left or right a bit, it will depend on the space available once I measure it all up.

Still in the airflow, out of the engine bay, high enough that water immersion should never be an issue and reasonable protection from rocks/ road debris. Should I ever get into an accident and the FSD gets damaged there, I'll have bigger issues to deal with than the FSD... :rolleyes:

It will fit in nicely for my plans to make a support for the middle of the plastic grill where it sags slightly, just so I can get the panel gaps right.

I'll just adjust the manufacture of the bracket to make a spot to mount the FSD. The bracket will also be a heavier gauge steel, so the FSD should be adequately supported from vibration.

Now that I think of it, I may rubber mount the heat sink/FSD combo to further reduce vibration.

Shouldn't take much more than a couple hours to fab up a bracket. Biggest PITA will be I'll most likely have to redo the extension wiring as I don't think there will be enough length to reach....
 
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Yup the nostril was my pick also

Nice job on the radio & FSD mount. Thanks for the pics & sharing much appreciated.

Here's mine...in the wind ):h
 

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Nice work GW. But I'd leave it where it is, or just move it behind the license plate. Properly sealed PMD shouldn't worry about submerging in water. Less heat xfer after turnoff on the bumper than catching all that radiator heat.
 
Well, I'm still chasing the "wet dog" smell in the cab. Today, I used the little green on the headliner and this is what came out:

DSC03741.jpg


How the heck do you get that much dirt in a headliner ferchristsakes?!?

I also had another go at the carpet:

DSC03742.jpg


DSC03743.jpg


That's not dirt, that's pure coffee! I must have pulled a full carafe out of the seats and carpets over the last month! Truck must of been owner by "mister spilly talker":

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H15xBHqPDZE

It's slowly coming clean though...
 
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I need to set my large DD iced coffee cup in a rag in my coffee holder to avoid the splash. I have vinyl seats.

Thats just nasty! Nice little machine you have there.
 
Hey BJ,
Good to see a fellow guy thats handy and aint scared to rip things apart :thumbsup:.
where in the world did you get these little bulbs for the radio?
I had my radio apart last year to change these critters,but i'll be damned if i could find any anywhere that would fit.
 
Veg_Out said:
I now recommend that everyone changes their harmonic balancer and crankshaft pulley every 100k miles. I also recommend that you remove and have your injectors tested and balanced.
Click to expand...
Now why would you say that?
Personally i have not seen a bad one yet on all the 6.2/6.5 i have or have worked on.
The 89 in my sig has 700.000 + km on these parts,notting wrong with yet.
The 95 and 98 have wel over 300.000 km on theirs,still good.I got a couple spares from cratered mills,same thing.

I agree on the squirts though.
 
Ive had two HBs fail on me on two different trucks. Both around 200K mile mark. Luck of the draw??
 
bison said:
Hey BJ,
Good to see a fellow guy thats handy and aint scared to rip things apart :thumbsup:.
where in the world did you get these little bulbs for the radio?
I had my radio apart last year to change these critters,but i'll be damned if i could find any anywhere that would fit.
Click to expand...

Yup, if someone can build it, I can fix it.

The bulbs can from Thesource (aka radioshack). Just ask for 12v 50-60 ma mini bulbs. Should be hanging on the wall with the rest of their bulb section. Apparently, some people have used LED's. I may go that route next time for durability and lifespan, I just have to figure out the right led's to use (amperages).

bison said:
Now why would you say that?
Personally i have not seen a bad one yet on all the 6.2/6.5 i have or have worked on.
The 89 in my sig has 700.000 + km on these parts,notting wrong with yet.
The 95 and 98 have wel over 300.000 km on theirs,still good.I got a couple spares from cratered mills,same thing.

I agree on the squirts though.
Click to expand...

I guess the more accurate thing to do, rather than replacement by rote, would be a proper inspection schedule for the damper and pulley. Seems these particular components have proven troublesome, so a regular inspection of them is probably the least you would want to do. Kind of like what we do with aircraft.

Injectors? I've never seen a change interval in my 98 service manual, but replacement at 100,000 miles on any wearing component seems prudent. Especially when it can burn a hole in a piston top (from what I understand)...
 
Good job, Great White! It's shaping up nicely!

Perhaps the most noticeable change was new tires and sway bars front and rear. Really made a huge difference in the handling of both my rigs. Highly recommended, especially if you're going to be on-road a lot. Not too expensive. The sway bars were around $100 each, a bit more for the back.

-Rob :)
 
Oh, I also got the buffer out today and used the fine cut compound on the mirror housings. They were faded and almost to a gray haze.

20 mins of easy work and a finish coat of carnuba wax and they're shiny black like new.

I also replaced all the courtesy 194 dash bulbs and glued the passenger door courtesy light red/clear cover back on.

Pulled the passenger side door panel off and cleaned out about 2 lbs of dirt that had accumulated back there over the years. Pulled the "tweeter" cover off and washed the black felt insert.

then found out why there's a screw right through my ash tray. It seems the "bar" that the assembly pivots on is part of the dash plastic. What a great design on GM's part! Almost guarantees that it's gonna snap of eventually and that's exactly what it did. Tomorrow, I'll replace the missing plastic pivot bar with a nice steel piece and get a functional ash tray back. Gotta put my change somewhere....

Finished off with a soap and water wash of the door jams and doors.

The ol' girl is coming around....

:thumbsup:
 
bison said:
Now why would you say that?
Personally i have not seen a bad one yet on all the 6.2/6.5 i have or have worked on.
The 89 in my sig has 700.000 + km on these parts,notting wrong with yet.
The 95 and 98 have wel over 300.000 km on theirs,still good.I got a couple spares from cratered mills,same thing.

I agree on the squirts though.
Click to expand...

Mostly because they can go bad and not make any racket. By the time I started to hear it, and with my low mile injectors out of balance, that old crankshaft of mine had been hammered two too many times I guess. HB's are cheap and easy to change. Most of us need to pull our radiators anyway once in a while. Mine, looked great from the front, but had bulged out the rear.
 
Keep it up GW! We'll eat up this enthusiasm all day long!

I used Protecto wrap on my rusty door panels. I couldn't even take the inner one out due to rust/rot.. Now they are sound deadned and have more of that new truck tightness sound.

My window tracks are junk rotted too. Sure would be a bitch to replace the window now. The main reason for the before pic is to see all the mounting windows and screws. Don't think it would taken it. All the salt on the roads when plowing goes on the glass and down the door... impossible to wash away.

Anyhow, its tight and quiet now :)

This would be fantastic on the floor and above the headliner.. 20 dollar roll easily did both doors.
 

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