ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
pics?
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The "restification" of a 98 6.5 TD...
- Thread starter great white
- Start date
great white
Well-Known Member
Even better than just pics:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DieselInjectorTester
Buuutt, since you asked, here's how the rig sits this morning:
I had to pay 40 bucks for the injector line
that stuff just doesn't go cheap around here (another reason why I hate this F'n place). It was from a 6.2, so I had to make up a fitting to go from the metric line nut to the pipe thread. Believe it or not, Its a metric spark plug re-threaded to the line thread, then I machined a seat in the end to match the flare, then the plug body was welded to a 1/4 pipe thread air line fitting. Pretty? no. functional? we'll see.....I didn't mess around with JB weld on the pressure relief port in the jack cylinder like the wiki, I just welded it shut.
The top nut is welded on to the jack top nut, the JB weld is just for looks and a "last chance" catch of any leaks. It's only intended to give me enough time to get the hell out of dodge if it starts weeping.
I work around high pressure hydraulics and have seen the results of high pressure injection of a petroleum product into the human body up close.......
It's not pretty.....usually results in an aputation and could result in death.
I also have a plexi shield built that will go in between the tester and the user. This stuff is really not something to be "F'd" with. I'm keeping all my fingers and the rest of the time I have remaining just as it is...
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great white
Well-Known Member
Holy mother:
Screw Detroit blue and Alpine Green! I know what color my 6.5 is going to be now!
That is just gorgeous!
Accents/bits will be natural Aluminum, natural cast, detail gray and black.
Close second is classic AMC blue:
Screw Detroit blue and Alpine Green! I know what color my 6.5 is going to be now!
That is just gorgeous!
Accents/bits will be natural Aluminum, natural cast, detail gray and black.
Close second is classic AMC blue:
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great white
Well-Known Member
started the injector replacement.
What a biotch!
such a simple job made so difficult by lack of access.
So far, two injectors with no copper washers (yup, checked the bore with a dental pic) and two swollen glow plugs with severely pitted ends (ac delco's).
Also, it's becoming evident that most of these are the original 404 000 km units.....
And that's only the drivers side...
turbo comes off shortly...need beer break.
What a biotch!
such a simple job made so difficult by lack of access.
So far, two injectors with no copper washers (yup, checked the bore with a dental pic) and two swollen glow plugs with severely pitted ends (ac delco's).
Also, it's becoming evident that most of these are the original 404 000 km units.....
And that's only the drivers side...
turbo comes off shortly...need beer break.
Crankme69
New Member
What I would really like to know is how the old injectors test out...might you be so kind as to test em for us & report yr findings?
great white
Well-Known Member
there was definitely something amiss with the old ones.
first, they are Bosch (Made in Germany) originals. Assuming they're never been rebuilt, that's 404,000 kms on them......
I've only changed the drivers side so far (too late to start the other side) and my noise is cut at least in half when I started it to move it out of the garage. Just a gentle tick ticking from the drivers side, metallic hammering from the passenger side.
The typical big puff of black on start is also gone. Duraterms or injectors, who knows?
Personally, I don't care which. It's already running better and only half is done.
Can't wait to get the rest done....
I intend to test the old ones, eventually. I have them punched into a piece of cardboard with their cylinder and details written beside them. Glows are also in a piece of cardboard and labeled. The rear drivers injector looked nasty. This is just with the naked eye, but it appears the pintle extrudes further out in that one than the rest.
eventually, they'll be cleaned and rebuilt. Then, I'll seal 'em up and put them on the shelf for the next 100,000 replacement....
first, they are Bosch (Made in Germany) originals. Assuming they're never been rebuilt, that's 404,000 kms on them......
I've only changed the drivers side so far (too late to start the other side) and my noise is cut at least in half when I started it to move it out of the garage. Just a gentle tick ticking from the drivers side, metallic hammering from the passenger side.
The typical big puff of black on start is also gone. Duraterms or injectors, who knows?
Personally, I don't care which. It's already running better and only half is done.
Can't wait to get the rest done....
I intend to test the old ones, eventually. I have them punched into a piece of cardboard with their cylinder and details written beside them. Glows are also in a piece of cardboard and labeled. The rear drivers injector looked nasty. This is just with the naked eye, but it appears the pintle extrudes further out in that one than the rest.
eventually, they'll be cleaned and rebuilt. Then, I'll seal 'em up and put them on the shelf for the next 100,000 replacement....
great white
Well-Known Member
Got the passenger side Glows and Injecors swapped out yesterday.
I pulled the turbo off to do it and I pulled the inner fender out to gain better access to pull the turbo. Even with all this, it was still a Bitc.....
I'm fairly confident that they're the original injectors, albeit they have been out at least once as four of them had no copper washers. There were 3 glows that were only finger tight in their holes. It's not surprising they've been out once, this is a 599 block in a 98. They're all Bosch made in germany units and rusty as heck. whether or not they're had a rebuilt in the past 404 000 kms........:dunno:
But, now that it's all apart I'm looking at that rusty manifold and thinking I'll pull it off, clean it up and hit is with some natural cast gray. The crossover is coming off anyway to replace it with the warpspeed unit.
I'm just hesitant to pull the manifold off and end up snapping bolts in the head......
I pulled the turbo off to do it and I pulled the inner fender out to gain better access to pull the turbo. Even with all this, it was still a Bitc.....
I'm fairly confident that they're the original injectors, albeit they have been out at least once as four of them had no copper washers. There were 3 glows that were only finger tight in their holes. It's not surprising they've been out once, this is a 599 block in a 98. They're all Bosch made in germany units and rusty as heck. whether or not they're had a rebuilt in the past 404 000 kms........:dunno:
But, now that it's all apart I'm looking at that rusty manifold and thinking I'll pull it off, clean it up and hit is with some natural cast gray. The crossover is coming off anyway to replace it with the warpspeed unit.
I'm just hesitant to pull the manifold off and end up snapping bolts in the head......
mangus580
Member
Given that you have a 98 - and its a 599 block which suggests an engine swap at some point, I would suspect you shouldnt have much trouble pulling the manifold.
I was able to get them out without much trouble on my 95 that has 230k miles on it!
They are more likely to break in the manifold, than in the head itself.
I was able to get them out without much trouble on my 95 that has 230k miles on it!
They are more likely to break in the manifold, than in the head itself.
great white
Well-Known Member
great white
Well-Known Member
OK, so....
The passenger manifold has a blown gasket. There's soot all over the heat shield underneath where the injectors live.
So it's coming off.
Since the crossover is coming of to be replaced, I've decided to just pull the drivers side off also.
A quick run through the blasting box and I'll hose 'em both down with cast iron gray header paint. Hopefully, it'll hold the rust monster off for a couple more years. Should look nice and fresh too!
I also found a paint at the shop that is rated to 500F, even though it's not block paint. I'll be using that on the engine cover first, the rest of the block eventually. It's a two part (base and top coat) blue anodize look paint by plastikote. I thought about doing the valve covers while I'm in there, but I have no interest in removing all those injector lines right now.
So the scheme for the truck is going to be silver and blue, with some black accents.
Steel braid underhood and Blue anodized fittings on the blue block/heads. Vacuum lines will be replaced with stainless hard lines of black PVC coated steel lines. The aluminum bits will get a shot of gray/aluminum cast paint.
Should look nice and clean if/when it finally is done...
The passenger manifold has a blown gasket. There's soot all over the heat shield underneath where the injectors live.
So it's coming off.
Since the crossover is coming of to be replaced, I've decided to just pull the drivers side off also.
A quick run through the blasting box and I'll hose 'em both down with cast iron gray header paint. Hopefully, it'll hold the rust monster off for a couple more years. Should look nice and fresh too!
I also found a paint at the shop that is rated to 500F, even though it's not block paint. I'll be using that on the engine cover first, the rest of the block eventually. It's a two part (base and top coat) blue anodize look paint by plastikote. I thought about doing the valve covers while I'm in there, but I have no interest in removing all those injector lines right now.
So the scheme for the truck is going to be silver and blue, with some black accents.
Steel braid underhood and Blue anodized fittings on the blue block/heads. Vacuum lines will be replaced with stainless hard lines of black PVC coated steel lines. The aluminum bits will get a shot of gray/aluminum cast paint.
Should look nice and clean if/when it finally is done...
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Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
I live in the one of the worst salt belts known to man, and I plow in it, and my manifolds came off not easy, but came off with MR Bluewrench. I wouldn't worry too much about snapping the bolts off in the head.
great white
Well-Known Member
Well, the crossover and passenger side manifold are off.
What a PITA.
There was a few times I felt the manifold bolts go "springy" and backed off.
The crossover broke one bolt in each manifold......grrrrrrr.
After I got the passenger side manifold off, smoke wrench and a pipe wrench turned it out.
It's soaking in a degreasing cleaner right now, tomorrow it'll get blasted and painted.
Can't stand to look at it anymore today and I'm tired of being covered in "sooty" oil....time to grill up a nice Med rare sirloin and relax. I have to carry out a training flight tonight at 1000 pm local, need to rest....
What a PITA.
There was a few times I felt the manifold bolts go "springy" and backed off.
The crossover broke one bolt in each manifold......grrrrrrr.
After I got the passenger side manifold off, smoke wrench and a pipe wrench turned it out.
It's soaking in a degreasing cleaner right now, tomorrow it'll get blasted and painted.
Can't stand to look at it anymore today and I'm tired of being covered in "sooty" oil....time to grill up a nice Med rare sirloin and relax. I have to carry out a training flight tonight at 1000 pm local, need to rest....
HighSierra86
Active Member
Did the exhaust manifold actually have a gasket where is meets the block? My 96 didn't have one on either side, and from what I was told, most 6.5s never had them, although just about any top end gasket kit comes with them. After I did head gaskets I installed one side with a gasket and the other side without. Both sides are still sealed up fine 25k later
great white
Well-Known Member
Nope, no gasket.
Often, a cast iron exhaust manifold can seal sufficiently if it is square and true. If not, it will leak.
My passenger side has been leaking slightly, so it will go back on with a gasket.
great white
Well-Known Member
well, finally started`that long road back to a drivable vehicle!
Got the drivers side manifold off and sand blasted. Had to drill the one broken stud out as it snapped off flush. What a treat that was. It's hanging in the garage right now drying after a good scrub.
The passenger manifold is cleaned and tapped, the hole for the thermocouple is drilled and tapped and it's got a coat of cast iron gray on it. I had to bake hte paint, so it's on the back patio cooling right now:
Tomorrow, it starts going back together!
Got the drivers side manifold off and sand blasted. Had to drill the one broken stud out as it snapped off flush. What a treat that was. It's hanging in the garage right now drying after a good scrub.
The passenger manifold is cleaned and tapped, the hole for the thermocouple is drilled and tapped and it's got a coat of cast iron gray on it. I had to bake hte paint, so it's on the back patio cooling right now:
Tomorrow, it starts going back together!
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great white
Well-Known Member
"Ow would monsieur like 'is man-i-fold done?"
"Well done please":
):h
"Well done please":
):h
great white
Well-Known Member
well, injectors are in, glows are done, manifolds installed, EGT probe installed and warpspeed pipe painted flat black and installed.
Truck idles much better, runs quieter, starts easier and the annoying tendency to "pulse" at steady throttle is gone.
It was a major PITA at the end of the week, but happy with the results overall.
Truck idles much better, runs quieter, starts easier and the annoying tendency to "pulse" at steady throttle is gone.
It was a major PITA at the end of the week, but happy with the results overall.
- Staff
- #138
Nice work, BJ... well done, and thanks for sharing with us!
great white
Well-Known Member
Next up:
and :
:thumbsup:
and :
:thumbsup:
great white
Well-Known Member
Well, got right down to painting things blue.
Had the parts on the bench, can shook properly, cap off and can pointed, then......
I couldn't do it! The blue is just too flashy, not my style. I've always been a stock clean look kind of guy.
So, the engine bay is going basic black, similar to OEM.
Yeah, I know, the engine will "disappear" painted black.
Truth is, the engine disappears under all that crap anyways. I'm going for a nice clean basic look, so black and cast/aluminum/silver is going to fit the bill. Something that looks like it could be stock when you open the hood, but something that someone who knows what they're looking at will see.
paint is drying as we speak on the engine cover.
I gotta say, it looks damn good!
I was thinking of painting the "TURBO POWER" letters silver, but I might just leave it all black...
Had the parts on the bench, can shook properly, cap off and can pointed, then......
I couldn't do it! The blue is just too flashy, not my style. I've always been a stock clean look kind of guy.
So, the engine bay is going basic black, similar to OEM.
Yeah, I know, the engine will "disappear" painted black.
Truth is, the engine disappears under all that crap anyways. I'm going for a nice clean basic look, so black and cast/aluminum/silver is going to fit the bill. Something that looks like it could be stock when you open the hood, but something that someone who knows what they're looking at will see.
paint is drying as we speak on the engine cover.
I gotta say, it looks damn good!
I was thinking of painting the "TURBO POWER" letters silver, but I might just leave it all black...
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