Resurecting New Engine

[DieselSlug]

If you don't have a welder get some 1/8th" flat bar stock. Use a vice and you should be able to bend up something. I've heard of others not even using the rear mount, although I feel that doing so would put more stress on the front mount than I like. The rear mount is like having the third leg of a tripod there. Lower main mount, upper mount, and rear mount. A bipod will work in some cases.

Don

I also feel the need to have the "3rd" leg of the tripod. This truck was built to be reliable, so i gotta keep on it. Will definately post pics and questions when i start. Currently routering super swampers and putting them on my Wrangler.

 

[handcannon]

Too bad you're on the wrong side of the country from me. I'd be willing to assist in the fab work.

I'll answer your questions if I know enough to be able to.

I'm looking forward to hearing all about it and seeing some pics.

Don

 

[DieselSlug]

As soon as i get rolling will definately post pictures and such. Thanks!

 

[DieselSlug]

Well, im going to be getting the ball rolling on swapping out the medicore doors off my new cab to my truck and junking my super rotted out ones. Two weeks ago my drivers window rotted off the track. I took a bunch of pictures of the new cab (its a POS) but forgot my camera at home, will upload tomorrow.

The cab came off a gasser 1995 Silverado K 2500. I plan to keep the doors, wiper motor w/pulse board, and dash out of the truck. Im going to upgrade my 94 interior to the 95 within the next year or two.

Does anyone know if the wiring harness inside the cab is a one size fits all unit? I mean is it the same as a diesel in cab harness? I know i will need to swap my computer and get a 95 gauge cluster, but everything else (electronically) should work and plug in correctly right? It has a non- tilt column, so thats not going to be saved. (will get a new tilt unit at the J/Y) My main question is all i need a under the hood 1995 6.5 diesel wiring harness?

I havent done the alternator mod yet either, i am still in the process of looking for the rod that goes from the intake to the turbo so i will have all 3 mounting brackets. If anyone has one they would like to part with please let me know!

Thanks!

 

[Burning oil]

The gasser in cab harness will be very different on the PCM connections. You might be able to just use the 94 harness I bet they a very simular to a 95s. The PCM would be the same, but the dash connector "might" be configured slightly different. It would be easier to figure the dash than the PMC connections.

 

[DieselSlug]

The gasser in cab harness will be very different on the PCM connections. You might be able to just use the 94 harness I bet they a very simular to a 95s. The PCM would be the same, but the dash connector "might" be configured slightly different. It would be easier to figure the dash than the PMC connections.

Wow, i didnt know the plugs would be different to the PCM. I figured the 94 & 95 PCM's were the same, so i figured the gasser harness would plug directly into my 94 PCM. The PCM is still intact behind the glove box in the new cab. I was really hoping to just do this more as a swap out plug and play kinda deal. So if i got a 95 6.5 Diesel PCM it would plug directly into the harness?

 

[Burning oil]

I not sure about that, is'int the 94 IP a one year only? so the harness may be different. I still think you would be better off keeping the 94 harness and making some small mods to the dash connector if needed.

 

[DieselSlug]

I not sure about that, is'int the 94 IP a one year only? so the harness may be different. I still think you would be better off keeping the 94 harness and making some small mods to the dash connector if needed.

Im not sure. I thought the only special thing was the H.O. pumps, however from the outside i thought they look identical as all the DS-4's? I dont have the H.O pump. I have a spare 1994 6.5 PCM i can try and plug into the gasser harness for giggles on saturday.

 

[Burning oil]

The gasser haness will most likely plug in, but it is way wrong. The pin out will be different.

 

[DieselSlug]

Thats what im mainly afraid of. I figured they would do a one size fits all kind of thing with this part yah know? Like say the one interior harness they produce for reg. cab trucks will work for gassers and diesel, and will have provisions for both. Im probly way wrong, just hoping..

 

[Burning oil]

It might be harder to change out the harness than to just repin the dash harness connector if needed.

What are the differences in the dashes (electricaly)? not much, the cigar lighter and what else? If you had the shop manuals you could tell.
Not sure if you know, but there is just one connector at the back of instrument panel for the gauges, knowing GM they switched it up just alittle. But, again should be very minnor unless Im missing something.

 

[DieselSlug]

A bunch of pictures.

First one is the cross member that supports the front fuel tank strap. WHen the back strap broke it put a large amount of stress on the front one, and with all the rust it cracked it. So before this winter that cross member will need to be replaced. Rest of the new cab and removal. Its a rot box POS...

Came with new cab corners which i desperately need! And i already swiped the pulse board as mine was not working on delay. The one in the new cab was a napa replacement, and looked in awesome shape, ahhh the little stuff.

 

[DieselSlug]

Here is a video of the lift in progress...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxOkSp0yhuM

 

[Missy Good Wench]

You definately need the wooden prop under the front of one of these engines when they are fully dressed.

I have a 4 wheel engine stand too and a 6.5 will make that thing flex and make me very nervous.

Once I get the engine right side up and the heads on and stuff, I place a prop under the front.

It woukld be just plain ugly to have a stand buckle and things end up on the floor.

Looking good.

I will say this, I really appreciate the lack of SALT out here in the Northwest.

Nothing much rusts to any great degree.

The chasis on my 95 DaHooooley is still painted and other than a few little spots of surface rust (color) its still pretty much as it was when new.

Enjoy the build.

Missy

 

[DieselSlug]

Thanks missy, rust sucks for sure, very depressing especially after my nice manifolds are already rotting.

 

[deejaaa]

watching the build.................

 

[DieselSlug]

Here is some progress of last weekend. Got the entire dash ripped out along with heater/blower assembly. THe truck did not come with A/C from the factory, which is AOK with me. Took me shy of 3 hours to get the dash and everything out of the cab. Next will be the steering column brace which is tack welded to the firewall.

Took my truck to a guy (my brothers friends dad) to get a quote on all the metal work for the cab corners. First thing he said was "why would you want to do that"... Everyone who looks at my truck give me the same crap. Then he said my rockers were going fast. But they are still super solid (i can kick them very hard with my boot and they feel like metal). So his price if i brought the materials was 220 per side for metal work. Then proceded to tell me he cant do it till November/December!! Unbelievable... So i think i have mostly convinced my dad to buy a welder and im gonnna teach myself how. If you want it done right do it yourself.

 

[DieselSlug]

A little more work done over the weekend. Going to order new hinge pin kits to eliminate the sagging issue then put the new medicore doors on to replace my poor doors.

Working on scraping up any cash i can to buy a welder. Trying to get the cab corners done before this winter. Then ill have a way to fabricate my down pipe for the HX!!

Im contemplating on selling the dash i ripped out of the new cab.. It would be a lot more beneficial for me to get a dash out of a diesel truck so i dont need to go searching for a diesel wiring harness. I drilled out the spot welds on the column support to keep that. Might sell as a kit. Would be perfect if someone has a 94' 350 TBI...

 

[DieselSlug]

Got the doors on over the weekend. Went pretty good. Did it all by myself as my brother was too tied up in XBox to help me even when i asked. So i made a jig for the jack to support the door, i just balanced it while putting the new pins and bushings in. The doors have zero sag. But the drivers is catching on the front fender, the reveal is wrong, will have to change that when i put the green fenders on. The drivers door ended up being off of a 96 and newer truck, so the door module needed some tinkering to fit correctly. All thats left is to install the detent springs, however my drivers side post where the spring rides on is bent! Not sure if its fixable.

Also played with the CS-144. But its not gonna work. The plow pump bracketry is too close and there isnt enough room to fit the CS in there without extensive bracket remodeling.. Bummer.....

Will get pics of the new doors on this afternoon. Got in a rush to make it to bowling league saturday night.

 

[DieselSlug]

Snapped a few pictures while outside at lunch. Havent cleaned them up or anything, but they are mediocre to say the least, but way better than one with a broken track and the other one way rotted out.