Resurecting New Engine

[tanman_2006]

Do you HAVE to get new sleeves? The local guy told me no. I am getting tierods, pitman, and Idler, and the pass side connecting link or something. The quote is in my truck, I will correct myself in the morning if I got quoted different parts. I am getting MOOG from O'Reilleys it was near $600. Mine are just old and beat to hell on my 93 1 ton. The last allignment I got was $50

 

[DieselSlug]

Do you HAVE to get new sleeves? The local guy told me no. I am getting tierods, pitman, and Idler, and the pass side connecting link or something. The quote is in my truck, I will correct myself in the morning if I got quoted different parts. I am getting MOOG from O'Reilleys it was near $600. Mine are just old and beat to hell on my 93 1 ton. The last allignment I got was $50

Im pretty sure i have to get new sleeves. I am afraid that all the threads will be stripped. I am going to have time this Saturday to tear into it. So we will find out then. All the parts were made in India. Thats going to affect what i buy now for sure.
However: Last night i pulled it into the garage to get a big breaker bar on the C-clap thing that tightens the sleeve to the threads. I noticed that on the stripped end the C-clap was as far in as you can go, possibly resulting on a bad clamping force on the inner tie rod! I checked all the other tie rods and they are in good shape! (All from the Sennet Auto at the same time) I think the aligner didn't put the c-clamp on in the correct spot, but if i took it back there he would say it's because of crappy parts. He is a big motivator/seller of MOOG brand parts. (Must get a good incentive) So i decided to remove the clamp to try an move it closer to the end of the sleeve where it would have way better clamping force on the tie rod, but i snapped the bolt like nothing trying to take it off, thank you CNY salt, and just over 1 year old.... Now it sits in the garage. The cheapest alignment around here i found is $69.99 plus tax.

 

[DieselSlug]

TTS Windshield Banner!

 

[DieselSlug]

Pictures of the WH1C Turbo off of a 1994 Dodge Ram truck.

Holset wh1c 56mm 8-blade compressor, has the webbing and the groove, 12cm^2 turbine housing. The same turbine housing size and identical compressor specs to the 1994-1998 hx35. Fits in any hx35 turbine housing. Comes off a 1994 only dodge cummins ram pickup: Assembly numbers 3533320, 3533564, 3534369, 3534370, 3536045, 3536046, 3802586 (DSMTUNERS) Since the Wh1c is for all practical purposes an 8blade hx35 the spool and flow is the same too.

I know the turbo looks a little weathered, but i traded a Fisher plow harness that i was never going to use. (I got the harness for free) THe turbo was on a working Cummins truck when pulled.

 

[3500GMC]

Arrrr, turbo nice nice nice.

PB BLASTERrrr - Your friend.

 

[DieselSlug]

Arrrr, turbo nice nice nice.

PB BLASTERrrr - Your friend.

Thanks! It looks a little weathered but it boosted 30 psi on the Cummins. Going to clean it all up when i get the time. Currently working with DZZ71 on a fabricated down pipe.

 

[DieselSlug]

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...SA_enUS415&tbm=isch&ei=fy2nTafgM8Hc0QGrrLD5CA


Part # 9235-12-04

Im trying to locate this adapter for the conversion.

 

[DieselSlug]

Pictures of the 16 dollar shipped to me 195 ACDelco T-stat... Will install when it decides to stop raining. (Been raining for a good 2 weeks)

 

[DieselSlug]

Hit the local junkyard up on Saturday. There was a 1998 6.5 School bus in the yard. Found a couple parts off of it that looked appealing. Picked up the alternator for 13 bucks plus 5 core. Looks to be a monster! I have to do some checkin into what amperage it is, should bolt right up (currently been running with a 95 amp gasser alternator on my truck that is crapping out). I am hoping that this new alternator is in the 130-140 amp range. Also picked up this dual thermostat crossover. I personally like the single better, but i have a friend new to the 6.5 world local that is in need of one. Hopefully this alternator will be put on this coming weekend.

 

[handcannon]

That looks exactly like the CS 144 alt I put on my truck in place of the CS 130. The one I got was a 140 amp model. On my 94 pickup the electrical plugs were the same. All I had to do was modify the mounting. With careful measuring and fitting I was able to use the origional length belt.

Don

 

[DieselSlug]

That looks exactly like the CS 144 alt I put on my truck in place of the CS 130. The one I got was a 140 amp model. On my 94 pickup the electrical plugs were the same. All I had to do was modify the mounting. With careful measuring and fitting I was able to use the origional length belt.

Don

I wish i could find out info on it but it doesnt have a single tag or cast in number on it. Just Says ACDelco.. Wierd that it wouldn't just bolt up? Looks almost identical to the gassers, maybe a little larger in diameter. Will have to experiment with it. I dont have much room for modification of the brackets due to having a belt-driven plow pump, so the bracketry is very complicated as is.

 

[handcannon]

I just went out and compared your alt to mine and it is the CS 144. It is even clocked the same as mine.

Was this alt on the pass side of the 98 motor?

The alt on your 94 should be a CS 130 and it will be on the drivers side.

Can you post a pic of your alt and the plow pump brackets?

I had some pics of modified CS 130 brackets somwhere at one time. I'll see if I can find them.

Don

 

[DieselSlug]

Ok, i totally forgot about the changes in the OBD-1 to OBD-2 engines with the switching of the accessories. Will post pictures tomorrow of my accessory setup! I had to "clock" the gasser alternator when i bought it so it would work on my truck. Rotated it 90 degrees or so and it bolted right up.

 

[DieselSlug]

Here are the best pictures i could get in there. First off i noticed that my truck has a 2 wire pigtail going from the truck harness into the alternator, and the school bus alternator just has one? The alternator looks like it will have to be clocked and one of the tabs on the new alternator is larger than the gasser job, so i can see where the fabrication will be needed on the mount next to the belt tensioner. Pictures of your bracketry would be awesome handcannon. I can mess around with the upper mount without changing any of the plow stuff, but not the bottom mount. Thanks!

 

[handcannon]

Your pictures are good. They do show what I was interested in.

I found my pics and tried to post them last night but they were too big and needed to be re-sized. I couldn't figure out how to re-size them so I had to wait for my son (my computor wiz) to be available to help me. He is available now so maybe shortly I'll be able to post them.

In the meantime, I think that if you are able to do some fab work you will be able to install the CS 144.

I think that the plug currently on your truck will plug directly into the CS 144 and allow the alt to work normally. Double check me with somebody more knowledgable about auto electrics though.

Don

 

[handcannon]

This post is a trial to see if resizing the pics worked the way I want them to.

Don

Looks like it worked

 

[handcannon]

Here Are The Pics

You've already commented about some of the differences between the two alts. I'm going to go ahead and do a complete description so that others will be able to understand.


#1-- CS 130 (stock alt on a 94 K2500) on the left and CS 144 on the right. This shows the difference in the top mounting ear.

#2-- CS 144 in front and CS 130 in back. The depth of field skews the perspective, but this shows the front to back depth difference between the two alts.

#3-- This shows where the stock CS 130 upper mount comes to on the CS 144.

#4-- This is the rear mount for the CS 130. The two bolt holes on the left attach to the intake manifold and the other two go to the back of the CS 130. You can see where I've already made the cut to start modding this. The two pieces are setting the way they would be if the bracket was uncut.

#5-- Here is where I moved the two pieces before re-welding. I wish I had written on one of the pieces how far I moved it. I'm thinking it was somewhere 1/2" to 5/8ths". I moved it farther than needed and used spacers on the back side of the CS 144 when attaching to the modded mount. This was to give better clearance to get past the rear bearing.

I had to mod the location of the two bolt holes shown in the right side of the mount also. It was getting late and dark by this time and I missed getting a good pic of this part. I think you could easily have a strong enough mount with only one of the two bolt holes, but the cabinetmaker in me couldn't ignore this. I just had to use both mounting bolts.

#6-- This is the completed mount. I wish I had taken the pic before painting as it would have been easier to see the finished product. The mount is upside down to the two previous pics. You can also sort of see the upper rad hose support I added to the mount. I previously had to replace a broken coolant crossover and what I found was a later model dual thermo crossover. This put the rad hose behind the alt.

#7-- This shows the CS 144 in its finished location. It looks like it is touching the spring housing for the belt tensioner, but it has about 1/4" of clearance. This also gives a good perspective of the physical difference in size between the two alts.

#8-- This pic shows the upper mount and how it worked out to be able to use a piece of unbent bar stock.

I hope this helps you.

Don

 

[handcannon]

I have a 94 K2500 and since your sig line says 94 I'm going to assume your motor has the same belt tensioner pulley as mine. Mine has no way to get a wrench or bar on it to release tension that I could see. So I'm going to show you the qiuckie tension release bar I came up with.

I scrounged up a chunk of angle iron. I think is was 2" X 3" but I'm not going out to check this late at night. I added a piece of about 3/8ths" by 3/4" scrap to the narrow side and a similar piece, only bent in a U shape, to the wide side of the angle iron.

I slide the angle iron down around the pulley with the flat chunk behind the pulley and the U shaped piece in front. When the U shaped piece is in line with the center bolt for the pulley I twist the angle so the U shaped piece captures the pulleys center bolt head then I lever the pulley back to release the tension on the belt.

This has worked pretty good for me.

Don

 

[DieselSlug]

Excellent write-up handcannon! It was all going good till i got to the part that required welding. I dont have a welder. I think this is going to have to wait till i get another bracket from the junkyard, or maybe even find one in my stash of basement parts! Just in case i mess something up.

I "think" my tensioner has a spot in it where i can put a 3/8 breaker bar on it. WIll have to go back out and check on lunch break! Thanks again!

 

[handcannon]

If you don't have a welder get some 1/8th" flat bar stock. Use a vice and you should be able to bend up something. I've heard of others not even using the rear mount, although I feel that doing so would put more stress on the front mount than I like. The rear mount is like having the third leg of a tripod there. Lower main mount, upper mount, and rear mount. A bipod will work in some cases.

Don