Resurecting New Engine

[Michaeljp86]

Yeah, i feel the same way. Some stuff is better meant for rebuilding. Here its usually dead due to rust...

There was a dozer forsale in really bad shape, it hadnt run in years. The guy swore it was worth 3k in scrap. I looked up the weight of it online and called up a scrap yard and asked what the price was. Steel was like $190 a gross ton so it was worth like $750. And they normally pay less then steel price because of oil and dirt and mixed metals. Im sure it went to the scrappers by now.

I hate trying to buy old farm equipment, its always my buddy had the same thing and got 5 million for it in scrap.

 

[DieselSlug]

Ok, got started on the hub teardown. Got the spindle nut off which was a 35mm but i only had a 36mm. Anywho it worked. Got the wheel off and started to lube the caliper slider/bolts. I went downstairs and got the 3/8 allen head wrench which i noticed has been severely beaten since i last used it, so it doesn't fit in the sockets good anymore. Looks like when Laura gets here we will be going to Sears to get a Craftsman set. Check out the rubber on the end of the tie rod. Already deteriorating! I just replaced it last year!! Cheap junk! The pad also look like its wearing unevenly! This is the caliper i did not replace, looks like time is coming to do so. And my rotors that were replaced also look ancient. Going to also grease all the fittings while im here. I hate Central NY.... Very depressing looking at the underside of my truck after i have put so much money into it. Im ready to move...

 

[NVW]

I'll never complain about rust again

 

[Michaeljp86]

For some reason my rigs dont have much rust under them and michigan uses a ton of salt. My jimmy has some body rust but under it isnt really rotted away, just surface rust. Ive only took it through the car wash once and bought it in 2004.

 

[DieselSlug]

Went back out for round 2! Found out why my cold starts are smoky and rough! The wire had gotten pulled off the end of the first glow plug on the passenger side! Easy fix, with some anti corrosion preventative compound and slipping back on! Look at those manifolds already from 1 year of CNY!!!!

 

[DieselSlug]

Picked this little number up from the JY a few weeks ago. GOing to go on my new tailgate in the lower corner. Will look cool! From a 80's Mercedes Diesel.

 

[DieselSlug]

Got the hub all alone!! I figured id make my first writeup on it since i had some decent pics.
Thread: http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...placing-1994-K2500-Hub-Wheel-Bearing-Assembly
Working on getting a new hub w/out ABS..

 

[DieselSlug]

New hub has been ordered from NAPA. It isn't Timken, but it is SKF. Total cast was just under $200. Of course it inst a stocked item, and will be arriving by 12PM tomorrow. But there may be a chance it will make it there by 4PM today. We will see, i want this truck all done by this Sunday, so i can drive it!

 

[DieselSlug]

Did some other mediocre stuff on the truck since the hub still isnt in.. Grr.. Did some polishing on the grill, can you tell the difference? The plow connects "drool" down the grill in the winter.. Also found out the sliders in the caliper are way shot! New caliper was also ordered today. Picked up a back rack for 100 bucks! Came off a 06 Dodge Ram! Fits well! Next is a tool box, then a new tonneau... Also got 4 hub bolts from the junkyard, they are a tad bit longer though. But should work.. I stripped two of mine.

 

[DieselSlug]

Well, finally got the hub, while I was at it I bought a new caliper too. On a side note: How do they make money on remanufactured parts? The remanufactured caliper cost $22.99, and the core charge is $22.00. So I basically paid .99 plus tax for a caliper right? And fuel obviously. Brakes all bled, wheel back on and go for a ride. No more grinding/binding. However when I turn the steering wheel I get a new clunk that I never heard! Pull it back into the garage, turns out the inner tie rod end on the passenger side is slipping in and out of the coupler! It’s stripped! But the bolts to the coupler are tight! I should have learned… Cheap junk parts from Sennett Auto parts! Now I don’t even want to drive it, afraid it will totally come apart going down the road would be a disaster! So now it sits again until a pay-day where I have extra money to fix the tie rods, plus an alignment. I just did all new tie rods and an alignment just over 1 year ago. Unbelievable!
Moral: You get what you pay for.

 

[3500GMC]

Always somethin' eh? I too, feel your pain.

How much torque did you put on the axle nuts? (stub axle in hub)

 

[Michaeljp86]

Im doing teh same thing to the front og my truck, I spent a fortune on parts. Im trying to get it put together today. Then Id like to check out the rear brakes.

 

[NVW]

Well, finally got the hub, while I was at it I bought a new caliper too. On a side note: How do they make money on remanufactured parts? The remanufactured caliper cost $22.99, and the core charge is $22.00. So I basically paid .99 plus tax for a caliper right? And fuel obviously. Brakes all bled, wheel back on and go for a ride. No more grinding/binding. However when I turn the steering wheel I get a new clunk that I never heard! Pull it back into the garage, turns out the inner tie rod end on the passenger side is slipping in and out of the coupler! It’s stripped! But the bolts to the coupler are tight! I should have learned… Cheap junk parts from Sennett Auto parts! Now I don’t even want to drive it, afraid it will totally come apart going down the road would be a disaster! So now it sits again until a pay-day where I have extra money to fix the tie rods, plus an alignment. I just did all new tie rods and an alignment just over 1 year ago. Unbelievable!
Moral: You get what you pay for.

Without seeing your bill, my guess is the $22.99 is the price you paid after the core charge of $22.00 was deducted.

 

[OrionThade]

Without seeing your bill, my guess is the $22.99 is the price you paid after the core charge of $22.00 was deducted.

I agree.

I suspect that the price would have been 44.99 had you not taken the core in at the time you bought the new calipers. Or if you didn't, someone messed up at the parts house.

 

[DieselSlug]

Always somethin' eh? I too, feel your pain.

How much torque did you put on the axle nuts? (stub axle in hub)

I cant remember, i looked in my GM maunual for it. If you need it i can check again.

 

[DieselSlug]

Without seeing your bill, my guess is the $22.99 is the price you paid after the core charge of $22.00 was deducted.

Ok, i figured it out looking at the reciept. They didnt charge me core, and then refunded me the core price when i brought mine back at a later date. So i actually paid .99 cents plus tax!! The people working in the parts stores in the hood are not very smart. Looks like i got one past them this time. The caliper came from AutoZone, since NAPA was sold out.

 

[Michaeljp86]

I bought new rear wheel cylinders from autozone yesterday for $10 each.

 

[DieselSlug]

Ok, here it is clearing over 2 months my truck has been sitting broken. I bought the house brand at Sennett Auto Parts and about a year later the threads on the passenger side is stripped in the sleeve. Dangerous to drive. I went to NAPA to price out tie rods and adjusting sleeves. NAPA has 2 levels, economy, and upgrade. Here are the prices all in all after NY sales tax. What do you guys think I should do. I don’t have the money to do this at all, but should I get the better ones? Or the cheaper ones? The current Sennett auto units could have gone bad due to the alignment guy not tightening them, however I tried to and they were tight. I may never know. I believe the drivers side is still tight. Now I need an alignment again!

BOTH SIDES:
Upgrade: $233.28

Economy: $89.5752

PASS. SIDE:
Upgrade: $116.64

Economy: $44.7876

Then an alignment!!!
And it is a plow truck….

 

[ak diesel driver]

fwiw if they were rusty even tight may not be good enough. If money is tight I'd get the economy ones and get new adjusters. I had this same thing happen to me but lucky for me the shop that did the alignment fixed it for free 9 months later

 

[DieselSlug]

fwiw if they were rusty even tight may not be good enough. If money is tight I'd get the economy ones and get new adjusters. I had this same thing happen to me but lucky for me the shop that did the alignment fixed it for free 9 months later

They were brand new when the guy did the alignment, so its either aligner error (not tightening it, but i cant seem to get it any tighter so im confused), or true product defectiveness. I will prolly be going with the economy, im definately holding the reciept for this one, but NAPA will stand behind the warranty better since i have an in there.