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Resurecting New Engine
- Thread starter DieselSlug
- Start date
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Recovery is as doctor says "hes back to normal". Do i feel normal? No, prolly never will. Sharp pains once in a while, i feel like ive aged 40 years. But im doing a heck of a lot better now that i have no doctor restrictions. Thanks for asking. Here are some pics of the new ride, has some rust, but not too horrid. The brake job is turning into a disaster. No one would have ever guessed i had a shop replaced all the brakes in the back last year. Wheel cylinder was leaking, stripped the brake at the wheel cylinder and at the t over the pumpkin, and the lines are just over one year old. NYS sucks balls, i hate this place..... Salt is so bad here.... So the adjusters are siezed, new ones are 25 bucks. So i will get them tomorrow and try to continue the job sunday, i have a wedding on saturday. a couple springs fell apart so this caused the shoes to be engauges, and made the drum a nightmare to pull off. Now i cant get the studs and hub off the old drum and onto the new one, i guess im going to have to take the drum to a shop somewhere.... I do not like drum brakes......
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DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Here are some pictures of the new brake parts. Got everything done before the trip thank god. It has all new brakes (i mean drums and everything) from the drivers wheel well all the way back. When i started bleeding them i kep building pressure and blowing the line further and further up. Until i said screw it and replace the whole line. Its stops excellent now. Next will be the cummins fuel pump. I started school this week, so hopefully i can get it done after school one of these days. If not then the weekend.
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DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Here are a couple pictures of the test-fitted Carter pump on my truck. Since these I have painted the shelf brackets with Dollar General gloss black (that was all I had laying on the shelf, hopefully someday I can find a better piece of mounting hardware). Had to add in a little section of 3/8” fuel line to offset moving the pump down the frame rail a tad. I also put a cheapie mechanical fuel pressure gauge about 1 foot after the L/P and plumbed it up by the brake booster so you can see it when you open the hood. I just cant afford an electric pricol optix gauge right now to match everything else. So I also had this gauge there with the old pump, this allowed me to compare readings. With the stock ’94 L/P I was reaching about 4PSI idle (not sure what it did when the engine was reved due to the gauge being under the hood). With the new pump at idle I get 12-14PSI. I can feel a tiny bit in difference, and there is a little bit larger puff of smoke out the tailpipe on a performance chip when you floor it from a stop. Has anyone else operated one of these Carter pumps? This thing is freking loud!! I can barely hear the pump over the idle noise of the truck. One good thing is that I can tell when its working. I have an extra Carter pump to back this one up, plus my crapola stocker. Next thing I will be doing is painting up the frame like I do before every winter. Spruces up the truck very well. I cant wait to put the new turbo in, im going to start doing some research here and get all the numbers for fittings n’such so I can start gathering the harder to get parts.
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iamdave0887
Here Comes Chaos.....
nice job on the pump install. I know it's a carter, but which one? Was it super expensive? I've been having the worst luck with the 93 HO LP's from airtex. HAd to exchange two under warranty already. I think it's time for either one of these, or a walbro FRB-5 depending on prices.
For winter I coated the undersides of the floors of my blazer in grease with a paint brush. Came out pretty crude looking, but it'll stop the floors from rusting from the outside in....again. Could you coat the frame in a Marine grease that's water resistant. I can't see the salt easily getting through the grease to the frame if you put it on thick. I knew a guy that lived in NYS and had grease rustproofing done to all his vehicles and none have any rust on them.
For winter I coated the undersides of the floors of my blazer in grease with a paint brush. Came out pretty crude looking, but it'll stop the floors from rusting from the outside in....again. Could you coat the frame in a Marine grease that's water resistant. I can't see the salt easily getting through the grease to the frame if you put it on thick. I knew a guy that lived in NYS and had grease rustproofing done to all his vehicles and none have any rust on them.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Dave, after undergoing endless posts on cumminsforum.com about how much a piece of junk these Carter pumps were (in the eyes of a Cummins owner) two people finally stepped up with working units to sell to me. I told them it was for a “project” and I have a fuel pressure gauge so I know if I am not getting any pressure. (Didn’t know at the time I could be able to hear the pump with the truck running) So I bought two used Carter pumps, The one I installed was the newer one, which has to have been replaced seeing as it looks brand freking new! The guy said it sustained 12PSI in his use. And it came off a 99 Cummins truck. The second one I got is a little dirty, it came off of a 98. This guy said it sustained 8PSI. So I got both of them to have a backup. Im almost sure that none of them are original, due to age. But I paid 80 bucks total, 40 for each to my door. People were telling me you can get a new one from Autozone or someplace like that for 120. I couldn’t spend 120 on 1 new pump, I wanted a backup. (Might plumb in parallel for backup). I then had to spend another 26 in special fittings (since the threads on the pump are metric). The newer pump also came with the wiring connector, so I did some butt splices to it and cut mine before the original connector (so I could just plug and play if I ever went back). I could not afford a Walbro at all. The only thing I paid high dollar for on this truck was the ARP headstuds. All others I got deals on. I was thinking about using used motor oil in a spray bottle, the ex G/F bought a 97 exploder from them and it was in super nice shape, he sprayed it with used motor oil in a spray bottle. But with how much I tinker with mine I hate getting covered in grease when doing it. So the paint is nice. I can get some numbers off the pump if you want. Let me know.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Here is the next addition to the ’94. A few weeks ago I was going to a local apple festival when I smelled coolant and saw a good 20 foot line out the back. Ended up being the male end of the drivers side plastic tank on the radiator cracked off. Bought a radiator from Napa for $312 plus tax. Got her installed yesterday, with fresh coolant (looks turquoise green since I used warm water (it was cold out). When I got the old radiator out there were tons of leaves (sorry forgot to get a pic. before I cleaned it out) in there, and I had the radiator out of the truck less than a year ago!. I also took the objective to re-coat it with some rubberized undercoating. Stuff is messy, stinky and expensive but it works great.
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DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Well that didnt work out like i wanted.... Trying to fix....
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Well we warm day yesturday.... 35 degrees F. That means the water wond freeze if the suns out! Time to wash the truck and the girlfriends car. My jeep will have to wait till another day...
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DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Unless she already has a ring, the engine will probably outlast the GF. If you want red, make it red. Just don't go pink. LOL.
Was re-reading this thread the other day, never gets old. But i had to refresh this to give props to Matt for calling it out! Shes been gone for a good 8 months and the engine is still going!!!!
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
I’ve got some big plans for the truck this summer. I think I am going to go out and start collecting all the necessaries for a NV4500 conversion. It’s more of a preference thing. My first truck had an NV3500. The only down fall may be plowing, but lately I haven’t been doing much of that. I know a lot of the stuff can be swap/ moved. Will my transfer case bolt up to the NV4500? I plan on getting a lot of the little odds, and ends from my junkyard, but they may be coming from 1500’s n’ such. But the steering column/ pedal assemblies/ hydraulic lines should work on my truck right? I know I will have to weld in a bracket for the clutch pedal. But a lot of this stuff I can do, it will just take time. I will also have to get drive shafts from a donor truck. If a truck falls into my hands that will be great, but until then I am going to get the little stuff. Mainly going to work off of 88gmctrucks swap documentation, will be basically the same just not a 700r4. Hoping to get the higher first gear NV4500, I believe they are ’95 and up trucks.
great white
Well-Known Member
LAWL!
Same one I have sitting in the garage.
I'm plannig on having at it with the TIG in the future to make it fit a wee bit better.
mainly, the outlets are in the wrong position for me...
Cheers
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
I cant wait to install it, im sure it will give me a tad more turbo lag, but it will be nice for the heavy hauls. Im going to remove all my A/C, so the only thing that will be in the way is all the hydraulic hoses and fittings..
great white
Well-Known Member
Not sure about your truck, but my rad is too wide for the IC to fit with the rear facing outlets. That's why I need to cut them off and reposition them, or at least one of them.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Not sure about your truck, but my rad is too wide for the IC to fit with the rear facing outlets. That's why I need to cut them off and reposition them, or at least one of them.
Oh thats going to suck. I can barely weld steel with my beginner skills, will prolly have someone else do a little fabbing to it then. I was told it should be just wide enough to clear the radiator, and thats why people used them. Guess its goin' to take somethinking when i get to that step..
Turbine Doc
Just Another Diesel Guy
Lag will be marginal, pre ATT with the high IATs of the GM turbo IC for me was the best choice as unlimited supply of cooling medium, now with better overall turbo output WMI will be sufficient, the IC is going into my ATT'd burb since I have it no need to buy a second WMI kit.
As far as finding someone to do your tube fab work, I was in same situation as you, I can do basic welding repairs, but I would not stake my engines life on my quality, see if you have a shop nearby that does Ricer IC installs that is what I did rate wasn't that bad to have them fab it, plus they had all the tubing/connectors handy so a 1 stop trip.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Thanks! Will have to "snoop" around. I would do WMI, but in CNY i just dont trust it. SO next best thing is the I/C, hopefully the WH1C will feel at home paired with it.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Another repair on the truck has come. Went on about a 5 hour trip to pickup my new Wrangler in Southern PA. When we got to the guys house my truck made an awful binding noise in the front end when we were just pulling to a stop. Made it all the way back home without any more noises. The next day I decided to take it to work, started binding horribly! Towed it home and there it sat till last night (about a month). Pulled it in and jacked it up. Wobbled the tire and sure enough it had play!! Hopefully its only a wheel bearing!!! Will have to research how to replace it..
