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Resurecting New Engine

More pics from last nights work. Started a little wiring, waiting on the oil filter adapter o rings. So i installed the Pyro guage....
 

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Here is the old block, will be for sale...
 

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Lookin great bro! Keep it up!

Perhaps you should put a 'T' in between the Flt mgr and the IP with a length of hose coming out and blocked off so when you choose to add a fuel pressure gauge no intake needs to be fussed with.
 
More Pics. I am sicker than a dog right now, but still managed to put the engine in yesturday, what a battle.... THe old screw in the rear main trick worked excellently....
 

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mattbratt, all you need to do is drill a small hole in the rear main on the metal part, then drill a little bigger, then thread a screw in there and tug on it. The rear main pulls right out like nothing! Sorry matt B i dont think im gonna die, starting to feel a little better today...
 
Well got a ton done this weekend!! However i cant find my camera right now, so i couldnt take pics. Hope i can find it tomorrow night...:sad: ETA for start is next weekend, if i can get the rest of the parts in time. Harmonic balencer, duraterms, tranny lines, oil cooler....
 
Well got a ton done this weekend!! However i cant find my camera right now, so i couldnt take pics. Hope i can find it tomorrow night...:sad: ETA for start is next weekend, if i can get the rest of the parts in time. Harmonic balencer, duraterms, tranny lines, oil cooler....

Excellent news DS! glad your feeling better too :) Wish I was there to smell the paint bake in, and hear the beast clack away!
 
I can't wait for video of the beast's new engine up and running.

I, like Matt, would love to be there to smell the paint baking in and listen to the ol girl rattle away. :D
 
You should get some paint on those injectors. They will rust fastly. I now use nothing but stainless bolts on the all of the exhaust. I've also had stainless glow plug heat sheilds made. Looking good!
 
the biggest problem with ss bolts is that to get a truly stainless/rustless bolt you end up with a softer bolt. The harder ones my provide enough corrosion resistance to do the job though.
 
I end up using ss rod for the bolts that need studs for the heat sheilds. I got everything from fastenal. GM wanted over $5 per bolt for the crap oe bolts. Stainless ended up cheaper and better.
 
Neverseize

My experience with stainless is mixed. Definitely not a 'hard' bolt by any stretch, (no pun) but for manifolds they'd be good. I have good luck with nickel-based Neverseize for the high temp areas and especially SS on SS. SS WILL gall, seize and break off if one doesn't take precautions.
 
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