• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Replacement turbo

Turbine Doc said:
Takes longer to get old one off than to install new one, PM me if you get into trouble with it, and you can't get with Slim
Click to expand...
I think that's kinda the story of the life of working on a 6.5 (hell...just about anything automotive). Peal every piece of skin off your hands getting the old, crusty, rusted out piece off. After three days of cussing, beating, and torching, slide the new piece on and tighten the bolts ):h
 
Still trucking, I added the Walbro FRB-5 to the mix, and what a difference, I pulled a 6 x12 enclosed trailer loaded to 2K# to my camp for 1st time since ATT & FRB-5 wholly different truck, most times it never kicked out of OD on hill climbs and cruise locked on 80, dummy me I forgot to calc properly but off top of my head rough # 14-15 mpg running 2100-2300 rpm for most part aint too shabby for 3:73s total combined wt with trailer me-my boy, & our hunting gear-fuel scale wt was 9935 #
 
Turbine Doc said:
Still trucking, I added the Walbro FRB-5 to the mix, and what a difference, I pulled a 6 x12 enclosed trailer loaded to 2K# to my camp for 1st time since ATT & FRB-5 wholly different truck, most times it never kicked out of OD on hill climbs and cruise locked on 80, dummy me I forgot to calc properly but off top of my head rough # 14-15 mpg running 2100-2300 rpm for most part aint too shabby for 3:73s total combined wt with trailer me-my boy, & our hunting gear-fuel scale wt was 9935 #
Click to expand...

You happen to get your IAT's? Miss the intercooler?
 
Turbine Doc said:
Still trucking, I added the Walbro FRB-5 to the mix, and what a difference, I pulled a 6 x12 enclosed trailer loaded to 2K# to my camp for 1st time since ATT & FRB-5 wholly different truck, most times it never kicked out of OD on hill climbs and cruise locked on 80, dummy me I forgot to calc properly but off top of my head rough # 14-15 mpg running 2100-2300 rpm for most part aint too shabby for 3:73s total combined wt with trailer me-my boy, & our hunting gear-fuel scale wt was 9935 #
Click to expand...

Hi Tim,

what pump were you using previously? I actually run an HO Airtex wich gives me following pressures :
~12 PSI at Wait to start ;
7~8 PSI at idle/cruising ;
~4 PSI at WOT

I have a FRB-5 waiting on a shelf, and I was wondering if I should get any advantage to put it on, considering the job done by the Airtex, and I'm a bit lazy. ):h
Also, I think twice before laying down under the truck in the driveway for a fuel shower :cuss:
 
Heath h/o which is sufficient for majority of the 6.5 crowd, it's not psi we are driving toward, it sustainable gph, now part of my delivery restrictionis Racor 10 micron filter before the lift pump, the Walbro is rated for 45gph, vs 28 for the GM lift, had an Airtex on mine from a 93 was no better than the Heath. Just when you are full flow & loaded heavy your at limit to what an OEM pump can put out, also the Walbro isn't plug & play it does require some plumbing and electrical fabrication, IMO has to be relay driven as well because it has higher current draw then the OEM one,
 
Matt Bachand said:
You happen to get your IAT's? Miss the intercooler?
Click to expand...
Yes have IAT #s have to finish putting data on my spread sheet and will post that when I organize my scribbles off my data sheet, and as of yet haven't missed the IC, I completley removed it IC & plumbing last week.

I'm confident that if IAT becomes an issue it can be controlled with WMI and a programmer I have so it doesn't constantly spray unless needed to spray so water management/demand does not become an issue, but thus far not needed yet.
 
Al what I did with mine is kept Heath h/o GM style plumbed in, and paralleled the FRB-5 off the outlet port of the Racor and back in to the filter mgr, then relays to both with switch to control side of both relay, the normal power from PCM/OPS is the control current for the relays so I maintain safety feature, using switches to break that path and I can run one or other of the pumps, and both I guess if I really wanted to.

& Yes I know worthless with out pics, I'm home for Christmas, and some presents for you guys is me catching up on some posts/pics of latest things I've been doing
 
Turbine Doc said:
the Walbro isn't plug & play it does require some plumbing and electrical fabrication, IMO has to be relay driven as well because it has higher current draw then the OEM one,
Click to expand...

Tim, how much current does the stock pump draw? I measured the current for the Walbro @ 1.83 amps.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Al what I did with mine is kept Heath h/o GM style plumbed in, and paralleled the FRB-5 off the outlet port of the Racor and back in to the filter mgr, then relays to both with switch to control side of both relay, the normal power from PCM/OPS is the control current for the relays so I maintain safety feature, using switches to break that path and I can run one or other of the pumps, and both I guess if I really wanted to.

& Yes I know worthless with out pics, I'm home for Christmas, and some presents for you guys is me catching up on some posts/pics of latest things I've been doing
Click to expand...


Just can't wait :drool5:
 
I just got done reading this and its amazing, you guys did great work on this. I have one question though, I am getting new injectors and then next on the list is this turbo; Bill Heath told me to get OEM replacement injectors not the high output ones because they cause more heat when towing. Which ones should I get though? I notice Tim and Slim have high pop injectors.
 
We have gauges and are very "in tune" with our engines, h/o without a reflash are a waste of money IMO, as PCM will only put out what stock program calls for in fuel delivery, for most folks stock injectors are sufficient.
 
Extremesounds13 said:
I just got done reading this and its amazing, you guys did great work on this. I have one question though, I am getting new injectors and then next on the list is this turbo; Bill Heath told me to get OEM replacement injectors not the high output ones because they cause more heat when towing. Which ones should I get though? I notice Tim and Slim have high pop injectors.
Click to expand...


Stick with stock injectors, they will work fine, and do everyhting you need to do.
 
Web Site

Hey Guys,
Is there a web site where I can purchase an A-Team Turbo set up? I'm right in the middle of a rebuild and both motors are side by side. I need a new turbo and radiator. As far as the radiator is concerned, is there a bigger one that helps with cooling, my other 6.5 that locked up (roller lifter broke which in return locked up my cam which broke my timing chain and the engine died on the side of the road pulling my boat back from the lake). Since I'm in the middle of doing a rebuild, got any ideas on parts that I might have over looked?

I have 18:1 Mahl Pistons
New Cam
New Roller lifters
New Push rods
New water pump
Motor has been decked 0.007 of an inch 90 degrees parallel with the crank
New heads (not rebuilt - that have the intake bolt holes drilled 73 degrees
Intake Manifold modified to work with the new heads
2 block heaters, one on each side of the motor
Already installed 4" Exhaust

I'm including some pictures of the rebuild.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0382.jpg
    IMG_0382.jpg
    59.2 KB · Views: 73
  • IMG_0383.jpg
    IMG_0383.jpg
    70.4 KB · Views: 64
  • IMG_0384.jpg
    IMG_0384.jpg
    58.4 KB · Views: 62
  • IMG_0385.jpg
    IMG_0385.jpg
    76 KB · Views: 63
  • IMG_0386.jpg
    IMG_0386.jpg
    64.5 KB · Views: 61
Roy_Karr said:
Hey Guys,
Is there a web site where I can purchase an A-Team Turbo set up? I'm right in the middle of a rebuild and both motors are side by side. I need a new turbo and radiator. As far as the radiator is concerned, is there a bigger one that helps with cooling, my other 6.5 that locked up (roller lifter broke which in return locked up my cam which broke my timing chain and the engine died on the side of the road pulling my boat back from the lake). Since I'm in the middle of doing a rebuild, got any ideas on parts that I might have over looked?

I have 18:1 Mahl Pistons
New Cam
New Roller lifters
New Push rods
New water pump
Motor has been decked 0.007 of an inch 90 degrees parallel with the crank
New heads (not rebuilt - that have the intake bolt holes drilled 73 degrees
Intake Manifold modified to work with the new heads
2 block heaters, one on each side of the motor
Already installed 4" Exhaust

I'm including some pictures of the rebuild.
Click to expand...

Nice looking setup, just send me a pm on the turbo. Here is the skinny, The turbo is 700.00 plus shipping. The kit comes with all of the necessary parts to make the installation. Maybe some of the others who purchased one will chime in, and give you their thoughts on the kit. I have been very satisfied with the turbo on my truck and wouldn't go back to the gm *. The turbo does not have a waste gate and produces 15 - 18 psi boost depending on your particular fuel set up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top