Brooklyn Tow
9 11 Never Forget
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Rebuilding A 6.5 Diesel First Time Need Help
- Thread starter DZZ71
- Start date
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
The inserts you will need depends on what size the outer center main bolts are.
Early 6.5 are 12mm and later 506 blocks have 10mm
There are some things that the instructions dont tell you either.
Once the hole is drilled out and the drill hits the bottom of the original hole, drill 1/4" farther down or the insert wont seat flush with the block.
Run the tap "Carefully" until it stops at the bottom of the hole.
DO IT BY HAND WITH TAPPING FLUID (TAPMATIC OR Equivalent)
Back tap out frequently and blow out chips (wear safety glasses too)
You also need to countersink the hole slightly for the insert to seat properly. (Break the edge 1/16 wide with countersink)
I use Tapmatic tapping fluid when tapping the holes.
Dont try to do this with a hand drill either.
It can be done in a mill or large drill press. OR you can do it like I do.
I have a steel plate (1/2" thick) that has relief holes that just sit over the center 6 main holes (Reliefs are 1-1/4")
The plate bolts to the pan rail using flat head allen bolts.
I sit a mag drill on the plate and this allows a good straight drill job.
I then retract the drill, remove the bit, install a center drill as a pilot and then sit the tap in the hole and pilot the tap a few threads by hand using the center drill in the back of the tap as a guide and follow the tap with a little pressure on the mag drill (Motor off)
The tap has a taper pilot in the back, use it.
This works well but takes a little time to do right.
I can do all six holes complete in about an hour and a half.
Once the inserts are installed you must be sure they are absolutely flush with the block surface.
I made up a pilot from a metric bolt that screws into the insert and then touch the inset lightly with a counter bore thats slightly bigger than the OD of the insert.
I just touch it until there is a tiny cut into the iron all around (No more than .002")
This assures that the cap will bolt down perfect.
Also wash the new threaded hole in the block with BrakeKleen and blow dry before applying the loctite product that comes with the inserts.
Be sure the little locking pins are seated below the surface too and then swipe the surface with a good clean FLAT bastard file. **** Dont get wild with the file this is just to make sure there are no burs left********
Once the machining is done the cam bearings must be removed as well as all other oil galley plugs and the block washed completely and all passages flushed with hot sudy water or ???? cleaning agent.
Blow out well and dry.
Done deal.
This may sound like loads of work but is really a very simple job to do.
Now maybe it seems simple to me as I have been in the machinist trade for far too many years.
Any questions??? I will help all I can.
Here are some fairly detailed pix of what I spoke of as far as the tooling and procedures
*** Tell the guys at Lock and Stitch that you need the inserts for the 6.5 and they will sell you the right stuff, just be sure to let them know 10mm or 12mm***
If the outer bolts are the same size as the inner ones you have the 12mm outers.
Missy
Early 6.5 are 12mm and later 506 blocks have 10mm
There are some things that the instructions dont tell you either.
Once the hole is drilled out and the drill hits the bottom of the original hole, drill 1/4" farther down or the insert wont seat flush with the block.
Run the tap "Carefully" until it stops at the bottom of the hole.
DO IT BY HAND WITH TAPPING FLUID (TAPMATIC OR Equivalent)
Back tap out frequently and blow out chips (wear safety glasses too)
You also need to countersink the hole slightly for the insert to seat properly. (Break the edge 1/16 wide with countersink)
I use Tapmatic tapping fluid when tapping the holes.
Dont try to do this with a hand drill either.
It can be done in a mill or large drill press. OR you can do it like I do.
I have a steel plate (1/2" thick) that has relief holes that just sit over the center 6 main holes (Reliefs are 1-1/4")
The plate bolts to the pan rail using flat head allen bolts.
I sit a mag drill on the plate and this allows a good straight drill job.
I then retract the drill, remove the bit, install a center drill as a pilot and then sit the tap in the hole and pilot the tap a few threads by hand using the center drill in the back of the tap as a guide and follow the tap with a little pressure on the mag drill (Motor off)
The tap has a taper pilot in the back, use it.
This works well but takes a little time to do right.
I can do all six holes complete in about an hour and a half.
Once the inserts are installed you must be sure they are absolutely flush with the block surface.
I made up a pilot from a metric bolt that screws into the insert and then touch the inset lightly with a counter bore thats slightly bigger than the OD of the insert.
I just touch it until there is a tiny cut into the iron all around (No more than .002")
This assures that the cap will bolt down perfect.
Also wash the new threaded hole in the block with BrakeKleen and blow dry before applying the loctite product that comes with the inserts.
Be sure the little locking pins are seated below the surface too and then swipe the surface with a good clean FLAT bastard file. **** Dont get wild with the file this is just to make sure there are no burs left********
Once the machining is done the cam bearings must be removed as well as all other oil galley plugs and the block washed completely and all passages flushed with hot sudy water or ???? cleaning agent.
Blow out well and dry.
Done deal.
This may sound like loads of work but is really a very simple job to do.
Now maybe it seems simple to me as I have been in the machinist trade for far too many years.
Any questions??? I will help all I can.
Here are some fairly detailed pix of what I spoke of as far as the tooling and procedures
*** Tell the guys at Lock and Stitch that you need the inserts for the 6.5 and they will sell you the right stuff, just be sure to let them know 10mm or 12mm***
If the outer bolts are the same size as the inner ones you have the 12mm outers.
Missy
Attachments
DZZ71
"Living The 6.5 Dream"
10-4 buddy im gonna order the 12mm bolts right now
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
Stay away from the 506 blocks that had 12mm bolts and squirters.
Late 96 for 97 production. later 98-99 blocks were better in the bottom end but the number 8 cylinders would crack at the top.
Missy
Late 96 for 97 production. later 98-99 blocks were better in the bottom end but the number 8 cylinders would crack at the top.
Missy
DZZ71
"Living The 6.5 Dream"
So was the 506 the worst built block on the whole 6.5 generation? And the 599 was the better one?
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
The 929 and 599 were fairly good.
The first gen 506's with the large outer bolts and the oil squirt holes were a real POS.
DaHooooley had one of those (Good wrench Crate engine) the #4 main saddle cracked right through the oil squirt hole and up into cyl's 6-8
The 929 was an early block with 12 mm bolts as was the 599
The real late 506's (2000) that were cast by Navistar) were far better.
A 929 or 599 that is sound (possibly some small outer hole cracks in the holes) but nothing that starts at the register fit corner.
A well seasoned block that is useable even if it needs to be inserted is a good foundation.
I would avoid the squirt blocks except for the late Navistar blocks.
The 599 thats in my 94 burb came out at 230K and was perfect with no cracks.
Cyls were useable too with new rings and original pistons.
Just cut the decks .010 and good to go.
Missy
The first gen 506's with the large outer bolts and the oil squirt holes were a real POS.
DaHooooley had one of those (Good wrench Crate engine) the #4 main saddle cracked right through the oil squirt hole and up into cyl's 6-8
The 929 was an early block with 12 mm bolts as was the 599
The real late 506's (2000) that were cast by Navistar) were far better.
A 929 or 599 that is sound (possibly some small outer hole cracks in the holes) but nothing that starts at the register fit corner.
A well seasoned block that is useable even if it needs to be inserted is a good foundation.
I would avoid the squirt blocks except for the late Navistar blocks.
The 599 thats in my 94 burb came out at 230K and was perfect with no cracks.
Cyls were useable too with new rings and original pistons.
Just cut the decks .010 and good to go.
Missy
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
The red block in the pix above is an 82 6.2 and is in good shape.
Got the inserts and needs to be bored .50mm and will be a sweet foundation.
I almost used it for DaHoooley and made things a 6.2
Got the inserts and needs to be bored .50mm and will be a sweet foundation.
I almost used it for DaHoooley and made things a 6.2
DZZ71
"Living The 6.5 Dream"
Very interesting. Im real glad i dident just buy the engine out of a buddys 1997 6.5. It has 324,000km and he wanted $1400. So i figured why spend 1400 on an engine with 320km when i can get a block crank and pistions for $900. I just lucked out with the 599 as well.
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
For whatever its worth.
Clearwater cylinder head offers aftermarket blocks that are very nice for $1250
One of the Canadian companies has one for $1495
I have it from good report that the CW blocks are very nice.
ALSO I would not hesitate to use one.
The heads from these guys are wonderfully done.
Just food for thought.
Missy.
Clearwater cylinder head offers aftermarket blocks that are very nice for $1250
One of the Canadian companies has one for $1495
I have it from good report that the CW blocks are very nice.
ALSO I would not hesitate to use one.
The heads from these guys are wonderfully done.
Just food for thought.
Missy.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
wow!!!!
chrisk1500
New Member
Go big or go home.....I went big....
Seriously - I thought that the worst I did was lose the #8 con rod....turns out I split the block in half....LOL!
Told you it needed a new engine...
Seriously - I thought that the worst I did was lose the #8 con rod....turns out I split the block in half....LOL!
Told you it needed a new engine...