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Project "Johnny Cash"

With that the chassis is done for now. I will cone back and box the frame and finish weld everything once I test fit the body and confirm I don't have to move anything. I'd hate to finish the chassis and run into an issue where I had to cut it back apart. I pushed it out side to clean and reorganize the garage. So naturally I got a good photo shoot in some sunlight.
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I pushed the chassis off into the corner and dragged the cab out so I can start stripping it down. I'm going to build a rotisserie out of 2 cheap engine stands so I can install new floors. But this will have to be my bad weather project for a few months. Unfortunately with the nice weather I'm way behind on my outside projects I need to get done this year. Mainly a deck for the back of the house... stupid house taking all my money and time away from my truck 😅.
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One thing that i wonder is the tubing being open on the ends- would it be better to weld endcaps on the round and square tube? It is near impossible to paint through the bent pipe you have. Ohio sounds rusty to me in the desert, so two extra hours to cap them all seems worth it. Especially that rear one that will work like a plumbers ‘p’ trap with the middle lower than the ends.

And yes, yes, triple yes on house stealing from truck time and cash!
 
Capping the DOM will probably be something I do when I go back and finish weld everything and add the boxing plates. The transmission crossmember would definitely act like a plumbers J pipe and hold water. So that's an issue I must fix.
 
Not if you use the closed-cell type that skins over, like the triple expanding polyurethane used to seal gaps and insulate foundations, etc. The reason it insulates is because it's closed-cell, the "bubbles" don't open to each other, like they do in open-cell foams like a synthetic sponge, and it is paintable when cured because the air exposed foam skins up and forms an impervious layer as it cures that doesn't soak up the paint.

If you must trim off whatever oozed out the end of the cross member while expanding and curing, after it has cured, leaving exposed some cells that were cut open, you could slather some Bondo lightly over, then sand and paint after it cures, or spread some RTV Black over it (unpaintable) to "seal" off the end.
 
I know of at least one body man who will use closed cell urethane foam to fill the cavity where a front fender has rusted out at the bottom behind the front tire, then after it has cured, shave it down, use some Bondo, spot paint the area, reattach the splash guard/mud flap and voilá, good as new for the next few years and a lot cheaper than a new fender with prep and repaint and blending to match the door and hood.

If the foam was "saturated" it had to be open cell urethane, @ak diesel driver, for the moisture to fill up the cavity. Closed cell urethane foam is such a great insulator because there are thousands of little, individual, air pockets not connected to each other that keeps heat/cold from transfering from one side to the other. Open cell urethane foam makes a lousy insulator because it allows heat/cold transfer through the foam because the "air cells" are all interconnected with, and open to, each other through the "spider web" of the urethane which makes it both rigid and very light weight.

Flexible closed cell urethane foam (gotta love modern organic chemistry) is used as the buoyancy panels in ski vests and most newer life preservers because it is far more comfortable to wear than the old cork or rigid closed cell urethane blocks. If closed cell foam would "soak up" water or other fluids, it would make a pretty poor material to use for buoyancy to save your life if you were to go into the drink off of your skis, jet ski, or capsized boat, but I can go grab my ski jacket I used for jet skiing and it will list urethane foam as on of its components on the label as being for flotation, if I didn't remove the "Do Not Remove" label years ago! ;)
 
Weld on end caps are less than a $1 each. So I will pick some of those up when I get close to finish weld time.

I'm not familiar with the use of foam for stuff like that. But I'm a steel kind of guy so I always prefer to use my welder whenever I can.

n8in8or said:
That thing looks so cool out in the sunlight. Killer work! Now comes the real fun...…....bodywork 🤮
Click to expand...

Ugh I hate body work. Wish I had money to go buy a truck with a perfect body... stupid rust belt.
 
Here's an interesting statement
I will try to summarize this subject as much as possible, however, I have to mention the following for better understanding:
Plastic foams may be classified as open-cell or closed-cell foams, depending on which type of cell predominates. According to the degree of rigidity, plastic foams may be flexible, semi-flexible (or semi-rigid) and rigid. Rigid closed-cell foams can have good thermal insulation properties and buoyancy characteristics.
In closed-cell foams each cell (more or less spherical in shape) is completely enclosed by a thin wall or membrane of plastic, whereas in open-cell foams the individual cells are interconnected.
Expanded plastic refers to closed-cell materials; "sponge" is sometimes used for open-cell foams (e .g., sponge rubber).
Generally, no foam has entirely one type of cell structure (open- or closed-cell structure implies that the number of cells in the foam is predominantly open or closed, respectively). For example, most rigid polyurethane foams have high closed-cell contents, usually 85 to 95 per cent for a 2-lb/ft³ foam, therefore, "some" water will permeate.
In a closed-cell foam the resin membrane, which forms the cell walls, acts as a barrier to gases and liquids, although gases may pass through the membrane by the slow process of diffusion. Closed-cell foams, therefore, have lower water absorption and lower water vapor permeability than open-cell foams.
Closed-cell, rigid, low-density foams have good buoyancy characteristics and are therefore used extensively in flotation applications.
In such materials each cell behaves as an individual float. The initial buoyancy factor of a foam is equal to the density of the liquid on which it floats less the density of the foam. For example, 1 cubic foot of plastic foam having a density of 2 lb/ft³ will support a load of 60.5 lb/ft³ [62.5 lb/ft³ (density of water) — 2.0 lb/ft³]; as the foam absorbs water the factor decreases.
I hope this will clear some minds about "water-proof" closed-cell foams.
Gil_G

HIGHJACK OVER!
 
Extruded foam construction board such at what you're talking about, or the Owens Corning pink board sheathing that comes in ½, ¾, 1, 1½ and 2" thick 4'x8' sheets, is not the same thing as the expanding closed cell urethane foam insulation that comes in a spray can. That is a dense, open cell foam with a "skin" on it to provide a vapor/moisture barrier as sheathing under the siding. Which is why you can't leave cut edges exposed and it is not rated for direct weather exposure/sunlight.
 
Well thanks to covid19 im having trouble getting supplies to finish my outside projects for the summer. So since I had a free weekend I decided to tear into the cab and see what I have to work with. Stripped it all the way down minus the dash.
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I knew it needed the floors and cab corners. But I found a few other surprises. The door seals had wicked water into them so parts of the lip and area around the door adjar switch are a little rough but I should be able to make those. 20200905_163055.jpg
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Also another area on the fire wall seam that attaches to the cowl area had some rust. But I might have to tub the fire wall anyway to fit the turbo, so I can deal with that once the cab is back on. I'd hate to spend the time to fix it just to cut it back off.

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Also the passenger side wiper transmission mount looks like it ripped out.

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But other than that the cab is pretty clean for a one owner ohio truck. The original owner had made some patches to the floor and cab corners. But he riveted them over the original steel. So it looks like the cab has never been cut and patched which it good for me since that's what I will be doing. It always nice to find a cab that hasn't been cut up and half ass fixed. I would prefer no rust, but we don't get that lucky up here in the rust belt. At least I found no rust unto the window seals so thats a big plus.

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Next im going to power wash it to get all the mouse piss cleaned off. Then I will start prepping for replacement panels from AMD.
 
Man I feel so bad for you guys. That much rust and we would have just bought a different rig. Back when those trucks were in good condition with working a/c, ok paint, etc at about $5-6,000- that amount of rust would knock it down to a $1,500 truck.
How much is the value of a no rust body truck say with a bad small block? Might it be worth it to get one from here or Arizona just for the body?
 
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