Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Probably throw Southwestern Texas in that group, and the caveat of away from the coast for Cali, too.
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Project "Johnny Cash"
- Thread starter Rockabillyrat
- Start date
Rockabillyrat
SlIgHtLy StUpId.
I got really lucky finding this truck. The prices for a clean square body in the mid west are ridiculous. A guy about an hour west of me has a friend in California. They work together to buy trucks and parts then ship them back to ohio. I was set on a 73- 80 truck because I prefer the round head lights. So I messaged him to see if he had a cab and other parts I needed. Well turned out he had that 80 c15 that they purchased with a slipping transmission. Unfortunately for him they didn't catch that the cooling system was only water. The truck was shipped over late last winter and it cracked the block. So it was perfect for what I needed. I didn't find out it was a 5.7 diesel truck until I went to go look at it. Which was also so good luck because not only did I get the front end I wanted. But this truck has a dual tanks! So I get the bed I wanted as well!
This is coming together nicely. The 78 had the exact chassis I was after. And the 80 has the body I need. "One piece at a time
"
This is coming together nicely. The 78 had the exact chassis I was after. And the 80 has the body I need. "One piece at a time
"
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Dual tanks! You'll get some cruising range out of that one, depending on how you drive her.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Or a lot of WMI juice storage!
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
So, will it have two headlights on one side and one on the other and one rear fender a tail fin and the other not? I shot a man in Reno just to watch him die and used six pickups just to make one that ran!"One piece at a time
Rockabillyrat
SlIgHtLy StUpId.
Well I ended up with some unexpected free time this weekend. So I decided to get the body off the c15. I took my time and disassembled everything with care so as much of the truck as possible can be reused. The engine was already stripped down to basically a long block so that really sped up the process. I removed the hood and then pulled the whole front clip as one piece.
Next it was time for the bed. The bed removal tool I made came in handy again. I sold the old bed from the 78 already so I was able to put it on the roller cart I made. So nice being able to push it around when needed.
Then it was time for the cab. First I had to remove the seat and carpet to cut out the transmission hump to clear the transmission and transfer case. 4X4 cabs have a taller hump. All they do from the factory is cut the floor and put in a two piece hump section. One piece bolts in, the other I need to weld into the floor. Luckily the 78 cab has both of this pieces and they are in good shape. I still need to drill out the spot welds on the rear piece. But I used the bolt in section to determine the area of the floor to cut. I rough cut it for now, I once I get the other piece off the 78 cab i will finish it up.
After getting everything disconnected and the doors removed. I tried to pull it with the engine hoist and a bracket I made to bolt on a 2x4. But I was having a hard time getting it to come off evenly, and I did not want to damage my nice cab. So I rolled it into the garage and used my chain hoist to lift it off. That made it alot easier to position it and lower it onto the k20 chassis. I need the correct body mounts for it so for now its just sitting on wood blocks.
Once I get the cab mounted properly im going to see what I have to do to clear the up pipes for the turbo. Im already plan on shaving the fire wall so while I'm in there I can trim the fire wall to clear them.
I'm leaving the bed and front clip off for now to make it easier to work on. Once the cab work is done the front end can go on to start the fab for a first gen cummins intercooler.
I also pulled the fuel tanks, then rolled the 2wd chassis out side. Hopefully I can sell that and make some of my money back
No bad for a weekend!
Next it was time for the bed. The bed removal tool I made came in handy again. I sold the old bed from the 78 already so I was able to put it on the roller cart I made. So nice being able to push it around when needed.
Then it was time for the cab. First I had to remove the seat and carpet to cut out the transmission hump to clear the transmission and transfer case. 4X4 cabs have a taller hump. All they do from the factory is cut the floor and put in a two piece hump section. One piece bolts in, the other I need to weld into the floor. Luckily the 78 cab has both of this pieces and they are in good shape. I still need to drill out the spot welds on the rear piece. But I used the bolt in section to determine the area of the floor to cut. I rough cut it for now, I once I get the other piece off the 78 cab i will finish it up.
After getting everything disconnected and the doors removed. I tried to pull it with the engine hoist and a bracket I made to bolt on a 2x4. But I was having a hard time getting it to come off evenly, and I did not want to damage my nice cab. So I rolled it into the garage and used my chain hoist to lift it off. That made it alot easier to position it and lower it onto the k20 chassis. I need the correct body mounts for it so for now its just sitting on wood blocks.
Once I get the cab mounted properly im going to see what I have to do to clear the up pipes for the turbo. Im already plan on shaving the fire wall so while I'm in there I can trim the fire wall to clear them.
I'm leaving the bed and front clip off for now to make it easier to work on. Once the cab work is done the front end can go on to start the fab for a first gen cummins intercooler.
I also pulled the fuel tanks, then rolled the 2wd chassis out side. Hopefully I can sell that and make some of my money back
No bad for a weekend!
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Awesome progress!! I didn't realize the 4wd hump was 2 pieces. I guess I need to go to the junkyard and pull that second hump piece off a cab if they have any good ones.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
I about bet that that chassis will be gone sold in a heartbeat.
Rockabillyrat
SlIgHtLy StUpId.
I had to make some room in the garage for a lifter job on my friend's 5.3 Silverado. So I put the bed and front clip on to clear some space. That got me thinking I should mount the entire body and set the gaps before I start laying out the turbo. With all the modifications I've done I dont want to start on anything until I know the body fits correctly. I went to AMD for the body mounts since they offered a complete assembly when compared to most places that just offer the bushings. I went with rubber bushings to help with ride quality. With all my suspension bushings being urethane I dont want my teeth to rattle going down the highway.
To mount the cab I needed to first finish cutting the floor for the 4x4 hump. I finished removing the donor hump from the 78 cab. My new spot weld driller from snap-on lasted .2 seconds
. So I finished the job with a standard drill bit.
Then rough cut the 80 cab for the 4x4 hump.
The NV4500 shifter is located farther back than the SM465. So I will have some cutting to do on the trans tunnel. I will save that for when I get into the firewall work.
With that out of the way, I went around and installed all the new mounts and bed bolts. So far it looks like all my crossmembers and cab mounting brackets are right on the money. I need to fine tune everything once I get the doors and hood back on.
Once the body is squared up, im going to dress the engine and lay out the centermount turbo.
To mount the cab I needed to first finish cutting the floor for the 4x4 hump. I finished removing the donor hump from the 78 cab. My new spot weld driller from snap-on lasted .2 seconds
. So I finished the job with a standard drill bit.Then rough cut the 80 cab for the 4x4 hump.
The NV4500 shifter is located farther back than the SM465. So I will have some cutting to do on the trans tunnel. I will save that for when I get into the firewall work.
With that out of the way, I went around and installed all the new mounts and bed bolts. So far it looks like all my crossmembers and cab mounting brackets are right on the money. I need to fine tune everything once I get the doors and hood back on.
Once the body is squared up, im going to dress the engine and lay out the centermount turbo.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Those mounts look really awesome!
Rockabillyrat
SlIgHtLy StUpId.
Making some slow progress over the last couple of weeks. I stripped the cab down inside and out so I can prepare for the centermount build. My plan is to shave the firewall, and clearance it for the up pipes. Then I'm going to run a vintage air setup to clean up the engine bay. Also this truck was an automatic, so I also need to swap the in the steering column and pedals from the 78. So gutting the interior and A/C box was in order. I'll tell you what, it felt REALLY good to find nothing but sand in the nooks and crannies of the cab instead of rust.
Next I took the time to clean up my garage. I had parts from 3 different engines and 3 different square body trucks piled up on the shelves. So I took the time to organize it all so I could lay out the parts I need for this build. My timing was spot on too, I actually sold a bunch of stuff as I was sorting it out. It's weird because I've had these parts listed for months
score!
I found all the brackets I need to run the early serpentine belt set up. So I hung those for now. I need to get the correct water pump so I can check the fan clearance. The front cross member is really close to the fan shroud. So I need to make sure I dont need to move it or redesign it all together. Once I figure that out I'm going to pull the front clip and engine so I can build the up pipes. That will also give me access to the firewall so I can make my cuts.
I did take the time to square the cab and bed to the frame. As well as center the front clip, I'm not going to bother setting the gaps yet since it has to come back off. Once I get the engine back in with the turbo I will put the doors and hood back on and set the gaps. Then I can start laying out stuff like the intercooler and hydroboost. Here comes the fun part of this build
Next I took the time to clean up my garage. I had parts from 3 different engines and 3 different square body trucks piled up on the shelves. So I took the time to organize it all so I could lay out the parts I need for this build. My timing was spot on too, I actually sold a bunch of stuff as I was sorting it out. It's weird because I've had these parts listed for months
score! I found all the brackets I need to run the early serpentine belt set up. So I hung those for now. I need to get the correct water pump so I can check the fan clearance. The front cross member is really close to the fan shroud. So I need to make sure I dont need to move it or redesign it all together. Once I figure that out I'm going to pull the front clip and engine so I can build the up pipes. That will also give me access to the firewall so I can make my cuts.
I did take the time to square the cab and bed to the frame. As well as center the front clip, I'm not going to bother setting the gaps yet since it has to come back off. Once I get the engine back in with the turbo I will put the doors and hood back on and set the gaps. Then I can start laying out stuff like the intercooler and hydroboost. Here comes the fun part of this build
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I’d love to find sand instead of rust! Looking forward to the next steps.
Rockabillyrat
SlIgHtLy StUpId.
Covid is still slowing down getting parts in a reasonable amount of time. I waited over a month for my flowkooler water pump to ship! My plan is still to mock up the fan to check clearance at the crossmember before I pull the engine for the centermount build. So I put the truck on the back burner for a little longer till everything arrived. But as of today I finally have everything I needed to get back to work. Im finishing up a few things around the house then its time to focus on the truck this spring and summer. I have alot planned for this year im really excited about.
A few teasers of what's to come. A big ol' Borg Weiner turbo and some custom injection pump stuff
A few teasers of what's to come. A big ol' Borg Weiner turbo and some custom injection pump stuff
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Did the flowkooler come with any specs? I read their ads that say better or improved, but never saw actual numbers or if they did testing on balance flow with it.
Rockabillyrat
SlIgHtLy StUpId.
btfarm
America First!
That IS a mighty nice looking piece there.No specs, but I haven't seen anyone give a bad review on them. It looks awesome
View attachment 64346
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Advertised as more flow and higher pressure to help relieve steam pockets.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yes, and there in lies the problem. It is an impeller pump. So it could create a ton of flow. But impeller pumps dont create pressure- all of them are literally rated as ZERO head pressure by design. Pressure gets created by resistance to flow, and way more so by the coolant getting hotter and hotter. You have a 16 lbs cap.
If your system is running at 15 psi, how much more pressure do you want? Pressure is the NEGATIVE effect of too much heat. Granted as the pressure rises it moves boiling point. Higher pressure makes it HARDER for the metal to shed its heat to the coolant in block and heads. It also makes it harder to shed heat from coolant to radiator. Someone in their marketing class didn’t pay attention in science class.
So- if they are advertising all this about more pressure, can you trust me he more flow? Granted, if thevolume of flow is increased and nothing else changes, then yes Boyles law says pressure will increase. But do you want to pop the radiator cap? And IF the flow is increased to help the cooling effects- which it very will could - then it would shed more heat and cause it to lower pressure if anything.
So what no one in any of the 6.2/6.5 world argues is the 127 gpm does better than the 87 gpm pumps. (At least i never heard it)
So what is their rating?
If you don’t need to install right away and want to play-
maybe a scrap piece of steel with a couple nipples for in/out and pump a 55 gallon drum to another and time it. Then we could do the same with a regular ho 4 bolt and a spin on...
I have a 4 bolt ho with about 70,000 miles on it, and new spin on sitting on the shelf...
Now the other problem that isn’t addressed is the balanced flow. Yes people disagree but y’all know my side and why.
And not running it through the heater hoses messes with that so testing that becomes a challenge without being installed. Then we need flow meters to check it, or multiple thermal sensors...
Rockabillyrat
SlIgHtLy StUpId.
They advertise having more flow. But I dont remember anything about more pressing. And besides pressure in a cooling system is from the thermo-expansion of the coolant acting on the spring in the cap.
I'm going to be running a late single thermostat housing so I don't have to worry about the bypass issues of the dual thermostat. That paired with the flokooler and a 4 core champion radiator it should keep it cool. Duramax fan too.
I'm going to be running a late single thermostat housing so I don't have to worry about the bypass issues of the dual thermostat. That paired with the flokooler and a 4 core champion radiator it should keep it cool. Duramax fan too.
The thing I don't quite understand is they kept the smaller size impeller and didn't make it larger to fill the gap around the housing like the late GM pumps...