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P400 in the Burb install
- Thread starter spdgofast
- Start date
I'm going to buy the .310 pump and try it I guess for now. Here are a couple of invoices I have for the injectors that are in the motor now. So I bought new so called Marine Injectors from Peninsular Diesel, then I put 311 nozzles in them and have them popped @ 2700 and installed them in P400, and it ran great in the P400 just hard start when hot, the .350 Peninsular pump ran perfect! just not enough fuel, maybe due to the 2700 psi pop pressures, (max egt's of like 650*) look back in the thread for documentation if you'd like. So I have a local Diesel shop repop the injectors to 2250 and install with the first Conestoga built pump with the .350 plungers (FAIL) then I have Conestoga check and repop the injectors along with a .330 plunger pump built which runs on 6 cylinders like the first one. The point of this post is I have about $1000.00 into a set of injectors that probably don't have 1000.00 miles on them from the original purchase date from Peninsular Diesel. That's $1.00 per mile! No wonder I don't like to work on this POS 6.5 anymore because all of my Cummins just run without any freakin headache! I know, I'm hating and venting again but FUXNA!
Well that may explain it, the last video of his motor running that I saw wasn't running very well and then to compound the problem the pump was built by Conestoga!
I'll most likely be sending my Conestoga pump to Justin @ R&D, I'll just have to figure the $2500.00 or whatever I spent at Conestoga as another lesson in life, I've had many @ 56 years old some less expensive and some much more. But you know what they say, one bad customer review can overcome a thousand good ones.
Either way Chris, I appreciate what you have done and I would like to compensate you for your time in addition to the shipping charges, please PM me a method that I may do this. Paypal or whatever, and if you don't want to accept or consider it, please accept it as a deposit on future work. Thx Dave
No payment needed, i didn't fix anything or rule anything out.
Chris, I guess I missed this post yesterday, yes I am working the throttle a little trying to raise the RPMs a little to try and clear it up, while trying to crack open injector lines one at a time. I will give this a try today. Thx
You need to do this again,or pop test the injectors. Also double check the return line ,maybe put a hose from the ip directly into a container.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Excellent catch- return line possible issue between or after injectors! And yes I am saying do ALL cylinders again with this known good pump. Also why I said use the injectors on the lines into the bottles.
If the problem happens with the pump from Chris, the other IP is probably ok and it is something else creating the issue.
If the problem happens with the pump from Chris, the other IP is probably ok and it is something else creating the issue.
I had a long phone conversation with Dave and my suggestions were as follows, add to it if I messed something.. Blowing the return line out and have a bottle to catch that line is a good idea also...
1 - re time the motor, a couple broken keys their is a chance the timing has gotten off..
2 - If certain the cam is timed, check the timing of the IP
3 - loosen injector lines, move them up a bit, screw ALL injectors onto lines, tighten all lines @ the IP..
4 - give the IP 12v, crank the motor for 1 minute and stop
5 - see how much fuel is in each cup. if a cup or two are lower, empty cups, switch injectors around and re test, see if the low fuel follows the injector..
6 - report back
1 - re time the motor, a couple broken keys their is a chance the timing has gotten off..
2 - If certain the cam is timed, check the timing of the IP
3 - loosen injector lines, move them up a bit, screw ALL injectors onto lines, tighten all lines @ the IP..
4 - give the IP 12v, crank the motor for 1 minute and stop
5 - see how much fuel is in each cup. if a cup or two are lower, empty cups, switch injectors around and re test, see if the low fuel follows the injector..
6 - report back
Hey guys I got all of this and thanks, so for the injector return lines just give each side (DS) & (PS) it's own dedicated container to flow into correct? so a total of 10 containers, right? Oh I just reread post #368 from 6.2 turbo so just run one 1/4" ID hose from the top of the pump to a container which would be 9 total containers.
Hey guys, I'm going to try and do a leak down test on the cylinders without removing the valve covers and the rocker arms by counting crank revolutions to get each cylinder on TDC compression stroke. I just needed to confirm that when the crank gear dot is @ 12:00 and the cam gear dot is @ 6:00 number one cylinder is at TDC compression stroke correct?
And this would mean if I rotate the crankshaft one revolution clockwise the cam would turn 1/2 a revolution which would put the crank dot @ 12:00, the harmonic dampner @ 0* lined up with the 0* mark on the timing indicator on the gear case and the cam gear @ 12:00 and the IP gear dot @ 6:00 which would mean the the engine would be at #1 TDC exhaust stroke correct? So the pictures here would put the engine at TDC #1 exhaust stroke.
Attachments
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
That should be correct.
If glow plugs or injectors are removed it`ll make cranking over he engine a lot easier, easier to tell when no1 is coming up onto compression stroke too.
So after a bunch of pump changing thanks to Chris with Twisted Steel Performance loaning me two pumps I installed his two pumps and reinstalled the Conestoga pump I originally installed and the engine ran on all 8 cylinders. I have never had to purge the DB2 pump like I did these pumps this time but thanks to Chris convincing me I cranked the engine over with the fuel solenoid powered up and the throttle wide open with no glow plugs until I saw raw fuel coming out of the glow plug holes to purge the air. In the past I've just cranked it over with no intake manifold and sprayed silicone into the intake ports and she would just fire right up but I could not get the engine to fire with silicone or WD 40 this time, and I did a compression test and they were all @ 425 psi except for #2. I probably need a new starter now though. I'm still a little confused on why the second Conestoga IP sheared another keyway on the cam IP gear when I first installed it before I put Chris's pump on it. I have also discovered in all of this that the valves on #2 cylinder are not sealing properly. Probably do to shitty work when I had the 6.2 valves installed in the new P400 heads, just my luck with only 100 miles of just test time on the engine. Maybe I should have left them alone huh? I've only been running the engine for very short periods since the front cover and H20 pump are not installed so I could keep an eye on the gears due to key way shears. Everything appears good but I'm still not trusting the Conestoga pump since it sheared a keyway. I will probably install the H20 pump and add coolant and run the Conestoga pump some more just in the shop along with a .310 plunger pump that I just purchased as a spare. I will then most likely be pulling the engine to redo the valve seats and possibly coating the intake & exhaust runners along with installing total seal rings on the pistons maybe. Thru all of this I was just wondering, would it be easier to install a Bullet Proofed 6.0 Ford than a 5.9 Cummins in one of these trucks? Not that I'm going that route, I'm too committed to the P400 I have at this time. Did Fellow Traveler do his Cummins conversion with the OEM independent suspension or did he go to a straight axle in the front? I feel that going to a straight axle totally looses the factory ride that I like on my Burb. If I was going for a jacked up on 38 or 40 inch tire rig then I would throw away the IFS ride and do a straight axle conversion. Just talking about options for others out there, like I said, I'm to invested in the P400 with the OEM IFS ride at this time so I just have to put my head down and move forward. So it looks like I'll be pulling my 100 mile P400 engine out pretty soon.
One thing I would like to add that is kinda weird is that even though I know I have valve seat issues on #2 cylinder when I ran both of the pumps that Chris loaned me the #2 hole was clearly firing, no smoke out of the exhaust port and it would burn my hand if I held my hand in front of the exhaust port, (remember, I'm running it without an exhaust mani on the PS side) when I crack open the injection line it would kill that cylinder. But when I ran the Conestoga pump the #2 hole smoked and would not burn my hand but there was a little difference in the running when I cracked open the injector line. I know, I need to add H20 and run it some more which I defiantly intend on doing before I pull the motor.
DieselAmateur
She ain't revved 'til the rods are thrown...
Sorry if this was covered earlier in the thread, but what was the intention/ purpose behind 6.2 valves in the P400 head?