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Opinions needed - Performed Optical Bump

Yes I was thinking that myself. At the very least I know I need to get a heat shield to not suck in all the hot air from around the turbo and exhaust. If there was room in the fender where the snorkel tube was, I’d want to attempt to plumb in something similar to a Ram air tube keeping the 4” or larger piping all the way
 
I watched a few of his videos. Some good info, some not. Seems to want to help folks so hope he keeps learning more and keeps wanting to help.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Yes I was thinking that myself. At the very least I know I need to get a heat shield to not suck in all the hot air from around the turbo and exhaust. If there was room in the fender where the snorkel tube was, I’d want to attempt to plumb in something similar to a Ram air tube keeping the 4” or larger piping all the way
Click to expand...
The K47 stock air box works quite well, from what I gather from reading posts and recommendations.
I think K47 is the number.
 
I think my jaw dropped earlier! The family and I headed out in the truck to a friends house for a Memorial Day dinner, with the 5 of us loaded in the cab I took off on the freeway not thinking anything about the power issue I was like this thing didn’t give any trouble. I look down at my gauges and I was dam near at 80mph and couldn’t feel it all the while climbing a small hill. I can’t even imagine how it’s gonna react to a new turbo. Now I have to put some more overtime at work so I can buy one.
 
Get your money back on that filter. Hot under hood air is a step backwards.
 
Well I decided to take the plunge tearing things apart today. I found a turbo from a 98 model truck for a price I couldn’t refuse. My old turbo came off rather easier that I thought, pulled the intake to do the valve covers since they were starting to leak. While cleaning everything up I discovered that one of the rear ports on the intake was apparently leaking. The full face of the gasket and the surface of the intake was covered in oil as if oil was being pushed out of that port from what was being sucked from the CDR valve. I’ll have to replace the CDR. Even though I was getting up to about 12-13 psi boost with the pedal to the floor before, the intake must have been leaking there pretty good.
While pulling the upper intake I also found the two center bolt hole threads were stripped and barley holding. I’ll have to rethread those two before the install.
I’ll start in the morning putting everything back together but since I had to pull the IP lines to get to the valve covers. I’m wondering if I should try idling the engine with the intake off to make sure none of the lines are leaking.
 
Got it all put back together this evening. Ended up replacing the injectors on the passenger side while I had it apart. Got the engine fired up and so far so good, although I did notice that there seems to be more clatter noise now on the passenger side of the engine. I had done the drivers side a few months back. It also looks like I’m going to have to cut the down pipe and add some flex pipe to get a better angle. The down pipe is very close to the frame and it also is tight against the #6 glow plug heat shield it almost pinched the wire. Not only that but where the two bolt flange is at the end of the down pipe connection into the rest of the diamond eye exhaust kit it’s hanging low enough to be resting on the crossmember. The only way to fix that is to have more of a upward bend in the down pipe, I can’t think of anything else but cutting out a section maybe 6” long and using flex pipe with a couple of band clamps like we do on the big rigs at work. I’ll add that to the list of things to do later. Still need to install the inner fender and wheel so I can take it out for a test drive. I did rev the engine a couple of times and noticed that now I can get about 5 psi boost where before I was only getting maybe 2-3 while parked but I’ll know more tomorrow after I get it back on the road.
 
I’m surprised You are getting boost without the vehicle being on the road.
Mine truck shows 0 boost until it has been given some throttle while driving.
 
ak diesel driver said:
Check your motor mounts
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I was thinking the same thing. Does anybody use the polyurethane motor mounts? How are they?

MrMarty51 said:
I’m surprised You are getting boost without the vehicle being on the road.
Mine truck shows 0 boost until it has been given some throttle while driving.
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Yeah I can get boost by goosing it or holding it at about 1200 and then a quick goose on the pedal
 
Just a general question. What a good degreaser that I can spray on the engine block that would melt off all the grime from years of oil leaks
 
BBQ lighter fuel, same thing as parts washer solvent, stoddard solvent.
Purple power or some such detergent, if left to soak for about a day, must keep it continually soaked with the detergent water mix.
I used to use some pink colored industrial cleaner that mixed with water. Mix a five gallon bucket of the stuff and throw the grimiest components in there, come back the next day and rinse them off. Could throw SBC chevy heat shields in there, with years of baked on oil and grime and that crap would wipe off, leave a nice clean heat shield.
 
Hey guys, for what ever reason I decided to try and reset the timing. I wanted to bump the IP just a tad to take up for the timing chain wear and see if that did anything. well.. I almost thought I went in over my head when I attempted the TDC learn on GMTDscan. I got two codes, one of which I had forgotten I didn't put the PMD resistor back when I had to change the PDM on our last road trip, fixed that. the other was code 88-TDC offset error and the reading went to -2.02 without moving the pump any. it took me a few tries tweaking the pump back and fourth until I finally got it at -0.44 and the code went away. I stopped there since I was frustrated and freaking out all at the same time. Mind you I still have the OS bumped, have not put it back. there really isn't much info for the procedure setting TDC offset on pre 96 OBD1 trucks. anyway I think I had to move the IP maybe 2mm over toward the passenger side fender to get to where it's at now.

I know MrMarty51 mentioned advancing it near -1.43 for some better performance, I may try again soon, but I want to see how it acts where it's at now. I've attached both the before and after PCM snapshots for you all to help with any suggestions.

one other thing I saw while trying to move the IP, I found a barcode tag on the IP with a date code from June of 2010, not sure if that's good or not.

I also reinstalled the OE air filter housing and pulled that open Spectre filter since I saw my IAT's at 111 degrees and fuel temp at 116 with it idling in the shade with the hood open, outside air temp was in the mid 90's .

something else that came to mind that the truck has been doing lately is on first startup and when I take off down to road it kind of has a random misfire to is for a couple of seconds and goes away. it's been doing this even before I changed the turbo and the 4 injectors on that side, but since that was done it seems a bit more. the only thing is it only happens that one time when its been sitting all night or all day. after that it runs fine and wont do it again. could a fuel bleed back or maybe a small amount of air trapped somewhere do this?

let me know what y'all think about the snapshots, what could be better or done there, and about my weird random miss on first take off.

other than this the engine seems to run smoother than before I did the turbo, injectors, and intake gaskets. I'm also getting slightly more boost now, hitting 15 psi on takeoff with no load. seems to pickup speed better too! one plus I noticed so far is before with the AC running I could feel it lug when the compressor kicked in and out on the road, now I can barley notice it.
 

Attachments

  • Before TDC Relearn.pdf
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  • After TDC Relearn.pdf
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ak diesel driver said:
Can't remember do you have a clear fuel line on the IP return
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No that’s one thing I’ve neglected to do, also have neglected to use any fuel additives in the last several tanks.

I’ll do the clear fuel line and see what happens.

something also. I don’t have the OE fuel filter setup. I had installed a remote mount filter with a clear bowl on the firewall and rerouted all the fuel lines over the intake a while back
 
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