-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
Occasional rod knock?
- Thread starter Tookie
- Start date
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
To get any great amount of fuel into the crankcase it would have to come from the injector pumps front seal and down through the timing cover.
The injector issue is niot going to flush that much in and if it was peeing a stream it would BLOW it out the exhaust anyway.
Engine needs to come out and find out why the 175# in that one hole.
Then things can be looked over carefully to see whats making the "Knocking noise"
Dont try to yank the engine and tranny together. These engines come out easily.
Unbuckle the tranny bolts, flex plate and such. Clear all the accessories off the front end and remove the turbo and exhaust manifolds.
Lift the engine slightly and remove the RH motor mount (Part that bolts to the frame)
Engine can be lifted slightly and tweeked a tad to the Right and it will lift right up and out.
Get the radiator out too so it is out of harms way.
Leaving the exhaust manifolds on is a PITA. These engines are wide anyway and the more crap you can get off the better.
The easy way to get at the manifolds is through the access opening in the iner fender.
Jack the truck, block securely, remove the tires/wheels and then you have great access to everything through the inner fender opening (remove rubber flap)
The starter tail hook and the wires are easily reached through the inner fender acess hole too.
Before you get all excited about the injectors, get the IP off and get it tested to see if its leaking. (Good bet thats the source of the fuel in the oil)
Bad rings, valves ect could be the cause of low compression
DO THIS. warm the engine up then check compression on the bad cyl.
You could have a failing lifter in that hole. A lifter thats going away will bleed down and cause a Thunk thunk thunk noise from the air filter.
This can also cause low compression on a cold engine test.
Remove the air top hat, start the engine and then listen, if your "Clunk, thunk" or whatever noise comes form the intake then its a failing lifter and not a serious internal issue.
Lifters can be changed with the heads on but its a BIOTCH.
If the sucker has hgh miles then I would yank it anyway and replace the head gaskets for good measure and install a set of new lifters.
Unless the old lifter "roller" shows that the lobe has issues. (roller all scored up) new lifters will fixya up right nice.
Be sure to preprime the new lifters in a can of mixed tranny oil and diesel. (Just submerge and work the plunger with a push rod or ??)
Keep us posted
Missy
The injector issue is niot going to flush that much in and if it was peeing a stream it would BLOW it out the exhaust anyway.
Engine needs to come out and find out why the 175# in that one hole.
Then things can be looked over carefully to see whats making the "Knocking noise"
Dont try to yank the engine and tranny together. These engines come out easily.
Unbuckle the tranny bolts, flex plate and such. Clear all the accessories off the front end and remove the turbo and exhaust manifolds.
Lift the engine slightly and remove the RH motor mount (Part that bolts to the frame)
Engine can be lifted slightly and tweeked a tad to the Right and it will lift right up and out.
Get the radiator out too so it is out of harms way.
Leaving the exhaust manifolds on is a PITA. These engines are wide anyway and the more crap you can get off the better.
The easy way to get at the manifolds is through the access opening in the iner fender.
Jack the truck, block securely, remove the tires/wheels and then you have great access to everything through the inner fender opening (remove rubber flap)
The starter tail hook and the wires are easily reached through the inner fender acess hole too.
Before you get all excited about the injectors, get the IP off and get it tested to see if its leaking. (Good bet thats the source of the fuel in the oil)
Bad rings, valves ect could be the cause of low compression
DO THIS. warm the engine up then check compression on the bad cyl.
You could have a failing lifter in that hole. A lifter thats going away will bleed down and cause a Thunk thunk thunk noise from the air filter.
This can also cause low compression on a cold engine test.
Remove the air top hat, start the engine and then listen, if your "Clunk, thunk" or whatever noise comes form the intake then its a failing lifter and not a serious internal issue.
Lifters can be changed with the heads on but its a BIOTCH.
If the sucker has hgh miles then I would yank it anyway and replace the head gaskets for good measure and install a set of new lifters.
Unless the old lifter "roller" shows that the lobe has issues. (roller all scored up) new lifters will fixya up right nice.
Be sure to preprime the new lifters in a can of mixed tranny oil and diesel. (Just submerge and work the plunger with a push rod or ??)
Keep us posted
Missy
Last edited:
Tookie
Member
Look at post # 67, Robyn
You're 24 hours late.
I had to drive around 80 miles with it like that to get my mom
back to her house, so that's how long it had to fill with fuel.
I'm going to the hardware store today to get some parts
for a home made leak down tester, if that's good, I'll
not be opening it up.
Tookie
Member
I have no concrete to roll the engine hoist on, working
on crushed concrete drive, so I lifted, then rolled truck back.
With tranny on jack, could not have done that.
on crushed concrete drive, so I lifted, then rolled truck back.
With tranny on jack, could not have done that.
Last edited:
Tookie
Member
Anyone know if Locktite should be used on the
rocker arm bolts?
rocker arm bolts?
iamdave0887
Here Comes Chaos.....
I didn't use it on my blazer nor on the 94 i've been working on. I just torqued the bolts to the proper spec.
Never seen one snap like that Tookie.
Impressive.
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
Glad it was not all that serious.
The rockers are fine without loctite, just torque to spec.
The places that need "Blue Loctite" are pump gear bolts, any bolts inside the timing cover, cam snout bolt, water pump backplate bolts (inside cover)
Yesssss definately replace the rocker buttons.
Ohhh yeah I can see now how you got fuel in the pan. with the push rods off and the valves not working the fuel had no place to go other than down.
You sure might want to take the time to replace the soft plugs at this time.
They can be badly corroded inside and not show. Be a real bitch to get it all back in and then have one start leaking in a few months.
The block heaters can also corrode and not show.
Just a thought.
MGW
The rockers are fine without loctite, just torque to spec.
The places that need "Blue Loctite" are pump gear bolts, any bolts inside the timing cover, cam snout bolt, water pump backplate bolts (inside cover)
Yesssss definately replace the rocker buttons.
Ohhh yeah I can see now how you got fuel in the pan. with the push rods off and the valves not working the fuel had no place to go other than down.
You sure might want to take the time to replace the soft plugs at this time.
They can be badly corroded inside and not show. Be a real bitch to get it all back in and then have one start leaking in a few months.
The block heaters can also corrode and not show.
Just a thought.
MGW
Tookie
Member
What are these? I've heard them mentioned a few times,
but I didn't notice anything like that
NVW
Well-Known Member
They are little plastic caps on the top of the rocker shaft, they keep the rockers from wandering.
Tookie
Member
Thanks, I'll look at that next time I get to work on it,
working nites this weekend, prolly not gonna get a lot
accomplished on the GMC til Monday.
I've had this truck for 7 years, longest I've ever owned
a vehicle - I'm ready for something new(er), but right at the
moment, I sure will be glad to get back behind the wheel
working nites this weekend, prolly not gonna get a lot
accomplished on the GMC til Monday.
I've had this truck for 7 years, longest I've ever owned
a vehicle - I'm ready for something new(er), but right at the
moment, I sure will be glad to get back behind the wheel
Tookie
Member
Is there a vendor here that sells gauges? I'm not gonna
wait for the pyrometer to come in, but I'm going to
drill the hole and tap it, what size is it? 1/4" NPT?
Hopefully, the engine will go back in Tuesday........
wait for the pyrometer to come in, but I'm going to
drill the hole and tap it, what size is it? 1/4" NPT?
Hopefully, the engine will go back in Tuesday........
NVW
Well-Known Member
My pyro was 1/8" NPT
Burning Oil is offering gauges now, Some of them have two different functions on one gauge.
Burning Oil is offering gauges now, Some of them have two different functions on one gauge.
Tookie
Member
Engine is back in, bolted tight - still got a few wires/ hoses
to hook up. The injector lines seem to mostly only go in
one way, some are iffy..but I think I have them right.
Seem to have misplaced the oil cooler line circlips :mad2:
Thing that's got me uneasy is, I can't find one of the clamps
that go over the 2 injector lines, and bolt to valve cover.
Don't think it went into the intake, but I looked several
times before I closed it up
Work tomorrow & thursday, only got about 1.5 hours of
daylight left when I get home, want to drive it by friday.......
to hook up. The injector lines seem to mostly only go in
one way, some are iffy..but I think I have them right.
Seem to have misplaced the oil cooler line circlips :mad2:
Thing that's got me uneasy is, I can't find one of the clamps
that go over the 2 injector lines, and bolt to valve cover.
Don't think it went into the intake, but I looked several
times before I closed it up
Work tomorrow & thursday, only got about 1.5 hours of
daylight left when I get home, want to drive it by friday.......
Tookie
Member
Pulled off the intake, didn't see the clip inside the passage.
Everything hooked up, fluids refilled/changed, started it up,
runs better than ever, but....... :mad2:
at idle, there is a funny metallic sound, almost like something
is bouncing around - not a knock though. Kinda ting, ping, ting.
Goes away as soon as the throttle is touched.
Not a sound that was there before.
Granddaughters birthday party tomorrow, so I can't check it
til Sunday. Gonna pull off the belt, and see if the sound is still
there. If so, I guess I'll pull the intake AGAIN, and feel around
with a piece of wire too. I don't think the clip could go far
enough into the passage for me not to see it, it's pretty big.
If I don't find anything, I'll start it with the intake off, see
what's happening.
Other thing is maybe pump timing, I etched the housing so I
could put it back exactly where it was, but with a new
timing chain, maybe it's off?
Other than the noise, it's running great, seems to be even
peppier than it was.
Everything hooked up, fluids refilled/changed, started it up,
runs better than ever, but....... :mad2:
at idle, there is a funny metallic sound, almost like something
is bouncing around - not a knock though. Kinda ting, ping, ting.
Goes away as soon as the throttle is touched.
Not a sound that was there before.
Granddaughters birthday party tomorrow, so I can't check it
til Sunday. Gonna pull off the belt, and see if the sound is still
there. If so, I guess I'll pull the intake AGAIN, and feel around
with a piece of wire too. I don't think the clip could go far
enough into the passage for me not to see it, it's pretty big.
If I don't find anything, I'll start it with the intake off, see
what's happening.
Other thing is maybe pump timing, I etched the housing so I
could put it back exactly where it was, but with a new
timing chain, maybe it's off?
Other than the noise, it's running great, seems to be even
peppier than it was.
I think if you sucked up that holder you would know it,I had a 350 that sucked up a piece of wire off the inside of an Edlebrock air filter,and I completely tore the motor apart till I found it,it sounded like severe rod knock.
Brooklyn Tow
9 11 Never Forget
Check for loose heat shields, etc.
Tookie
Member
Rained all day today, will pull intake Wed or Thurs,
weather permitting. Put about 200 miles on it since
Friday, everything's good except for the slight noise.
So ready to finish this.
New water pump, timing chain, starter, fuel lines, motor
and tranny mounts, injectors, oil leaks sealed......
weather permitting. Put about 200 miles on it since
Friday, everything's good except for the slight noise.
So ready to finish this.
New water pump, timing chain, starter, fuel lines, motor
and tranny mounts, injectors, oil leaks sealed......
Crankme69
New Member
Glad you got it back on the road, nice job Tookie & thanks for the pics & sharing the info :thumbsup:
Give us a shout after you investigate the noise...
Give us a shout after you investigate the noise...
Tookie
Member
All back together, didn't find anything, checked all lines
and brackets for contact, didn't really see anything.....
I recorded some videos, first is with lower intake removed,
engine warm, no noise.
Second is engine reassembled, engine cold, no noise.
Third is engine assembled, warmed up, listen close and
you can hear a light tap in there - (a little hard to hear on
the audio from my camera, sounds more like a tick)
I'm pretty convinced it's not internal, so that's it for me,
I'll just turn the radio a little louder from now on
Warm, no intake
Cold, assembled
Warm, assembled
and brackets for contact, didn't really see anything.....
I recorded some videos, first is with lower intake removed,
engine warm, no noise.
Second is engine reassembled, engine cold, no noise.
Third is engine assembled, warmed up, listen close and
you can hear a light tap in there - (a little hard to hear on
the audio from my camera, sounds more like a tick)
I'm pretty convinced it's not internal, so that's it for me,
I'll just turn the radio a little louder from now on
Warm, no intake
Cold, assembled
Warm, assembled
Crankme69
New Member
Sounded good from here