-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
New injectors
- Thread starter 3bals
- Start date
hookedup50
Well-Known Member
Good luck with AAA. I been stung by their fine print. It all depends on the tow driver from what I can tell. A valid inspection sticker got me on my jeep rescue from a crooked mechanic. Moral of that story is never let anyone have control, fix repair your vehicle if you can help it.
I thought the first "leg" of the tow was down in the caynon. :sigh1:
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Two ships passing in the night. Jody's in Lincoln (actually heading to Des Moines) and I'm in Denver! Spent Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday in the oppressively nasty heat and humidity 93-98* temps and 75-82* dew points - that is 78% to 89% relative humidity, so the heat indexes were 103 to 112 degrees the past three days- under the hood and laying on my concrete driveway swapping out the injectors and cutting off the stock exhaust system and installing the Heartthrob down pipe, head pipe and 45* elbow dump in front of the rear wheel for my muffler-less bazooka exhaust.
The 'Burb runs like a raped ape now, completely different than before. With the wastegate wired shut and the SSDS marine injectors installed I get barely a gray haze when I get on it off the line and the most wicked NASCAR snarl from the exhaust with the turbo spool up whine undertone. It is louder than crap in the 'Burb, totally different sound level than in the pickup cab with the utility box - most likely because a 1/4" steel diamond tread bed floor in the utility box just doesn't resonate like the 20 gauge floor and sides of the back end of the 'Burb does! My kids liked the snarl, and it was fun passing the Powerstrokes and Cummins at 80 + mph and giving it some boost with the right foot to see the looks on their faces when the 'Burb barked at them and the turbo snarled at 2,400 rpm. Normal cruising it wasn't too bad inside the 'Burb for sound level, like a '68 Camaro with glas-paks on it, but I'm definitely saving up my dinero to get the $118 for the diesel muffler and tail pipe from Heartthrob to finish off the kit because 6 1/2 hours and 480 miles of that does wear on a person, thank goodness the stereo works great!
Fuel mileage is definitely way up, rolled into the motel parking lot with 482 miles on the trip odometer and one tick mark above 1/4 tank on the fuel gauge, will top off the tank tomorrow and calculate the mileage, I'm guestimating about 16.5-17 at the moment - not too shabby considering I had the cruise set at 80-81 MPH and was bucking a 30 MPH quartering head wind out of the North and uphill all the way! The only down side (aside from the noise level) is that at 5,200' elevation in Denver compared to 1,200' for Lincoln, unless I roll into the throttle gradually I leave a fairly heavy black smoke trail until the turbo spools up if I get on it, like shooting for a hole in traffic on I-225 here in Denver if I punch it. Didn't do that in Lincoln, I could mash the go pedal and take off virtually smoke-less like out of a slingshot. Sluggish and smoky here at altitude Damn GM-8! Next on the list after the rest of the exhaust is an ATT, right Dennis?
The 'Burb runs like a raped ape now, completely different than before. With the wastegate wired shut and the SSDS marine injectors installed I get barely a gray haze when I get on it off the line and the most wicked NASCAR snarl from the exhaust with the turbo spool up whine undertone. It is louder than crap in the 'Burb, totally different sound level than in the pickup cab with the utility box - most likely because a 1/4" steel diamond tread bed floor in the utility box just doesn't resonate like the 20 gauge floor and sides of the back end of the 'Burb does! My kids liked the snarl, and it was fun passing the Powerstrokes and Cummins at 80 + mph and giving it some boost with the right foot to see the looks on their faces when the 'Burb barked at them and the turbo snarled at 2,400 rpm. Normal cruising it wasn't too bad inside the 'Burb for sound level, like a '68 Camaro with glas-paks on it, but I'm definitely saving up my dinero to get the $118 for the diesel muffler and tail pipe from Heartthrob to finish off the kit because 6 1/2 hours and 480 miles of that does wear on a person, thank goodness the stereo works great!
Fuel mileage is definitely way up, rolled into the motel parking lot with 482 miles on the trip odometer and one tick mark above 1/4 tank on the fuel gauge, will top off the tank tomorrow and calculate the mileage, I'm guestimating about 16.5-17 at the moment - not too shabby considering I had the cruise set at 80-81 MPH and was bucking a 30 MPH quartering head wind out of the North and uphill all the way! The only down side (aside from the noise level) is that at 5,200' elevation in Denver compared to 1,200' for Lincoln, unless I roll into the throttle gradually I leave a fairly heavy black smoke trail until the turbo spools up if I get on it, like shooting for a hole in traffic on I-225 here in Denver if I punch it. Didn't do that in Lincoln, I could mash the go pedal and take off virtually smoke-less like out of a slingshot. Sluggish and smoky here at altitude Damn GM-8! Next on the list after the rest of the exhaust is an ATT, right Dennis?
juddspaintballs
my balls are painted!
The Bosch injectors I got from Rock Auto are from India. Oh well, still better than the originals with over 200,000 miles on them.
I got the driver's side injectors and glow plugs replaced. No issues and it was fairly easy. Tomorrow I start on the passenger side and possibly change the exhaust out for that brand new Diamond Eye sitting in the garage...
I got the driver's side injectors and glow plugs replaced. No issues and it was fairly easy. Tomorrow I start on the passenger side and possibly change the exhaust out for that brand new Diamond Eye sitting in the garage...
The mule had 4 good ones and I had 1 :hihi:
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
All eight I pulled were original factory installed Bosch with 210,000+ miles on them. For the passenger side you definitely need to pull the turbo and inner heat shield that goes between the exhaust manifold and the injectors/injector lines to gain access. You also need to take loose the send and return heater lines for the rear heater of your Suburban at the pipe tees to gain access to #8 injector (careful, the plastic tees get really brittle with age and can break easily and new ones from the stealership aren't cheap). You may also need to use a universal joint on the injector socket to pull/install #4 because of interference with the turbo mount pedestal. A helper to hold the down pipe up in place while you fit the V-Band clamp around the turbo outlet and down pipe flange is worth the beers in thank you payment. It took me about 45 minutes to connect the two by myself yesterday with a lot of juggling and starting over when I slipped and dropped either the down pipe or the V-band clamp.
juddspaintballs
my balls are painted!
Yeah, which is why I didn't bother starting on the passenger side today. I'll have more time tomorrow. I'll probably take the inner fender off to make more room to work on that side.
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
Two Cents input.
I use a floor jack with short 2x4 or transmission jack with 4x8 to hold the downpipe firm against the turbo elbow to assist in re-installing the v-band clamp. Works great cause you can put some good pressure on them to ensure it doesn't slip when trying to work the v-band around with the heat shield fighting the effort.
I use a floor jack with short 2x4 or transmission jack with 4x8 to hold the downpipe firm against the turbo elbow to assist in re-installing the v-band clamp. Works great cause you can put some good pressure on them to ensure it doesn't slip when trying to work the v-band around with the heat shield fighting the effort.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
You don't have to remove the inner fender, that's just a lot more work pulling the battery, tray, etc. There's plenty of room once the turbo, inner heat shield and heater hoses are off and out of the way.
I've done that many times before with the whole exhaust system attached, works well. HOWEVER, I had Sawzalled and removed the entire stock exhaust system and was putting the 3" to 4" down pipe on by itself. The trick that I finally came up with that worked well was to slip the "T" of the T Bolt out of the clamp with the nut just barely on the threads (nut facing forward and bolt to the outside parallel to fender, someone previously had flipped it over and getting to the nut was a bitch to get it off), slip the V Band clamp onto the turbo outlet flange, then lift the down pipe up into place and slip the front edge of the flare into the first section of the V Band clamp by the nut. Then with the down pipe hanging from the V Band clamp, go up top side, CAREFULLY reach down with my right hand and hold the down pipe in place while I reached behind the turbo outlet with my left hand and worked the back segment of the V Band clamp over the flare and then the third segment over the flare, slipped the "T" back into the retainer, kept the V Band clamp pinched shut while I used a 1/4" drive 7/16" deep socket with a 12" extension and ratchet to run the nut down to bring the V Band clamp snug. After that, installing the 4" head pipe to the down pipe was a breeze! Where was my 3 1/2 ton floor jack? Why under the passenger side frame rail lifting the passenger side with the tires barely touching so I could more easily get my fat ass on a creeper under the Burb to remove the old exhaust and maneuver around the new pipe pieces! Some careful measuring, cut off the hanger welded to the old head pipe, re-welded it to the saddle of a new 4" pipe clamp for the front hanger, adjusted everything, then tightened the front 4" clamp to the down pipe and my home made hanger up, slipped on and aimed the 45* elbow and ran a couple of Tek screws in to hold it temporarily until I get the muffler and tail pipe from Heartthrob. Then I'll modify a couple of 4" clamps for the two rear hangers when I install the back half of the exhaust.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Talk about a pair of asses! :rofl:
juddspaintballs
my balls are painted!
I'm taking a break from the heat right now, but I'm almost done.
I pulled the inner fender which doesn't actually require removing the battery or the tray. I've done the inner fender before when I installed new rear AC lines and it's just a matter of a whole bunch of bolts that all come out quickly with a cordless impact. Getting the turbo and all of it's associated parts off was relatively easy, actually. I've been using a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF in a spray bottle as my penetrating oil for about a year now and I absolutely love how well it works compared to other stuff I've used in the past. Nothing fought me, I didn't round any bolt heads or nuts, didn't snap any bolts, and didn't have any issues taking the turbo, injectors, or glow plugs apart.
As far as the exhaust goes, I had the V-band clamp completely off and the T-bolt out of it's groove with I removed the turbo. When I slid the new downpipe up to where it needed to be, I simply let it hang and came out from under the truck. Once topside, I reached down, pulled the downpipe into place up against the turbo, wedged a rubber hammer handle between the frame and downpipe and that held the downpipe up close enough to the turbo that I could wrap the V-band clamp around the two pieces, connect the T-bolt to the clamp, and cinch everything tight. I've got the next pipe bolted up to the downpipe and the first hanger holding everything up underneath. I've still got to get the muffler, pipe that arches over the axle, and tail pipe connected yet. Then I'll put the inner fender back on, wheel back on, and see how the truck sounds. I kinda wanna fire it up as it sits right now with just the first section of pipe after the downpipe attached...
I pulled the inner fender which doesn't actually require removing the battery or the tray. I've done the inner fender before when I installed new rear AC lines and it's just a matter of a whole bunch of bolts that all come out quickly with a cordless impact. Getting the turbo and all of it's associated parts off was relatively easy, actually. I've been using a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF in a spray bottle as my penetrating oil for about a year now and I absolutely love how well it works compared to other stuff I've used in the past. Nothing fought me, I didn't round any bolt heads or nuts, didn't snap any bolts, and didn't have any issues taking the turbo, injectors, or glow plugs apart.
As far as the exhaust goes, I had the V-band clamp completely off and the T-bolt out of it's groove with I removed the turbo. When I slid the new downpipe up to where it needed to be, I simply let it hang and came out from under the truck. Once topside, I reached down, pulled the downpipe into place up against the turbo, wedged a rubber hammer handle between the frame and downpipe and that held the downpipe up close enough to the turbo that I could wrap the V-band clamp around the two pieces, connect the T-bolt to the clamp, and cinch everything tight. I've got the next pipe bolted up to the downpipe and the first hanger holding everything up underneath. I've still got to get the muffler, pipe that arches over the axle, and tail pipe connected yet. Then I'll put the inner fender back on, wheel back on, and see how the truck sounds. I kinda wanna fire it up as it sits right now with just the first section of pipe after the downpipe attached...
Big T
Well-Known Member
Did you fire up the engine after installing the first four injectors? Makes it easier to clear the air from the lines.
juddspaintballs
my balls are painted!
I did fire it up yesterday after the first 4 were done.
Exhaust is now on. I went for a drive with the truck. I got a little power back, but I'm still not where I should be. Next step is to drop the tank and check the sock. I might go ahead and ditch the sock in lieu of an in-line filter before the lift pump. Exhaust sounds great though. I love that the turbo is so much more noticeable in the exhaust but it's not overbearingly loud inside the cab. I had zero fitment issues with my rubber replacement rear AC lines.
Exhaust is now on. I went for a drive with the truck. I got a little power back, but I'm still not where I should be. Next step is to drop the tank and check the sock. I might go ahead and ditch the sock in lieu of an in-line filter before the lift pump. Exhaust sounds great though. I love that the turbo is so much more noticeable in the exhaust but it's not overbearingly loud inside the cab. I had zero fitment issues with my rubber replacement rear AC lines.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Glad to hear that you didn't run into any problems on the passenger side injector replacement. I had just found it unnecessary to remove the inner fender on my Suburban to replace the injectors, and never saw the reason for doing so as having it installed didn't affect the removal process at all. Fasteners and corroded threads weren't an issue either, as my 'Burb lived it's whole life in central Florida before living up here in Nebraska since December of 2010, so no exposure to multiple winters of road salt to corrode exposed threads on the exhaust system, turbo or anywhere else. I'm running just the down pipe, the head pipe and a 45* elbow that I had originally on my '94 C&C on my Suburban right now. See my comments on the Injector Replacement thread for my impressions of that set up on the Burb vs. the C&C with the steel utility box.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
FYI, we made home today with the motorhome being towed. 195 miles yesterday and 191 miles today. Out of pocket costs for towing, $0.
Updates to follow with pix after I take care of the broken leg/Dr visits.
I'm still interested to know what inside the valve cover came loose and ruptured the valve cover from the inside. Think one of the gerbils fell off the wheel and was flung out?:rof: I'm leaning towards one of the retainer buttons broke, the rocker fell off its rocker and a push rod went airborne.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
You definitely can NOT argue with AAA about a 386 mile tow of your motor home from Lincoln to back to your home in Minnesota costing ZERO dollars out of your pocket!
Recent injector update
Here's the communications I had with Walt today:
Jody,
The manufacturer tested each injector several times and all were in spec with an excellent balanced spray pattern.
Here below is a copy of that email I received.
The spec is 142-150 bar.
The units tested on a Bosch injector hand tester
1-150
2- 142
3- 150
4- 149
5- 147
6- 152
7-146
8-151
Number 4 is the one that they took apart. We tested as is, we need to reseal it to be use.
I asked them why the customer claims several were a stream, and they responded if the test pump handle was moved too slowly, that will result in a stream. Every injectors tests good. I would be proud to sell these injectors to anyone. As mentioned, we sell 20-30 sets per week and all work perfectly, as described.
Question, did you buy a new set from the fellow that told you these were no good? It sounds to me like the test results may have been manipulated for a reason.
Here's my response:
Walt,
I did not buy any injectors from the person that tested the fuel misers. He has been in the business of testing and repairing fuel injection pumps and injectors for 40+ years. It's just a one man shop with a person to answer the phone in addition. I'm sure he didn't manipulate the test results. Not that it made any difference, but I watched as he tested them.
I find it odd that we can have two completely different test results.
Now what?
Walt's response:
Hi,
I had the Stanadyne folks who made them, test them. They have no reason to lie either. I didn't test them here when you sent back, I wanted the Stanadyne shop to examine them as received. I don't know what to say. I buy injection pumps and injectors by the pallet load from them. They always stand behind their products and admit if there is a defect. If they were a faulty product, we wouldn't sell them.
I have to pay to have that one your guy opened up resealed, and then they will go back in stock. I will process your refund.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So, I'm guessing this is the end of the story at this point. I will start a new thread as soon as I heal enough to get the doghouse cover off for photos of the valve cover and what's underneath.
Here's the communications I had with Walt today:
Jody,
The manufacturer tested each injector several times and all were in spec with an excellent balanced spray pattern.
Here below is a copy of that email I received.
The spec is 142-150 bar.
The units tested on a Bosch injector hand tester
1-150
2- 142
3- 150
4- 149
5- 147
6- 152
7-146
8-151
Number 4 is the one that they took apart. We tested as is, we need to reseal it to be use.
I asked them why the customer claims several were a stream, and they responded if the test pump handle was moved too slowly, that will result in a stream. Every injectors tests good. I would be proud to sell these injectors to anyone. As mentioned, we sell 20-30 sets per week and all work perfectly, as described.
Question, did you buy a new set from the fellow that told you these were no good? It sounds to me like the test results may have been manipulated for a reason.
Here's my response:
Walt,
I did not buy any injectors from the person that tested the fuel misers. He has been in the business of testing and repairing fuel injection pumps and injectors for 40+ years. It's just a one man shop with a person to answer the phone in addition. I'm sure he didn't manipulate the test results. Not that it made any difference, but I watched as he tested them.
I find it odd that we can have two completely different test results.
Now what?
Walt's response:
Hi,
I had the Stanadyne folks who made them, test them. They have no reason to lie either. I didn't test them here when you sent back, I wanted the Stanadyne shop to examine them as received. I don't know what to say. I buy injection pumps and injectors by the pallet load from them. They always stand behind their products and admit if there is a defect. If they were a faulty product, we wouldn't sell them.
I have to pay to have that one your guy opened up resealed, and then they will go back in stock. I will process your refund.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So, I'm guessing this is the end of the story at this point. I will start a new thread as soon as I heal enough to get the doghouse cover off for photos of the valve cover and what's underneath.
pacificdrumma
Well-Known Member
The fact that he is going to put your faulty injectors back into stock is enough to make me not want to buy from him.