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New injectors

BTW, how's trying to change out injectors through the trap door floor panel in the motorhome, Jody? IIRC, it's a little tight but comfy lying on your stomach on the carpet and reaching down. I just remember changing out the PMD cable and hooking it up to your spare Heath PMD/heatsink by flashlight at a "truckstop" parking lot in the middle of nowhere I-80 in Nevada working with the two of us crouched over the open engine bay when the IP mounted PMD started cutting out at speed on the Interstate. Hopefully you can get the turbo out OK to change out #8 injector.

Be sure to let us know what effect, if any, the new injectors have on your already stellar 9 mpg average in the "Flying Brick" (BTW, 9 mpg is almost double the 5 mpg average I got on the highway driving back my father's 25' 454 powered Snap On Tools P-30 step van [same chassis and frontal area as your Brick] from Buffalo, NY, so anything over that 9 mpg is gravy!) and any apparent seat of the pants power gains (if any can be felt in the Flying Brick) too.
 
3bals said:
Yes, but what is the standard pop pressure for stock and/or marine injectors?
Click to expand...

I don't know. Do any of our technical geniuses here happen to know the answer to that? I don't have the numbers in my head, and I know the GM Service Manual doesn't have them, because I looked in mine!
 
IIRC seems like the stock ones are set to around 2k and the marines to 2200. also bosch bodies aren't what it's all about. it's the nozzles and you can't tell what they are unless you disassemble them
 
AK is right, the body doesn't matter at all, it's the nozzle & insides that matter the most....

psi - 2000 - 2300 will be just fine....
 
I assumed that just because it said Bosch on the body, it could be anything inside. I only know what I can see.

OK then, what is the allowable tolerance in pop pressure between the injectors? 10, 20 100 psi?
 
3bals said:
I assumed that just because it said Bosch on the body, it could be anything inside. I only know what I can see.

OK then, what is the allowable tolerance in pop pressure between the injectors? 10, 20 100 psi?
Click to expand...

The people who test it should know.
The spec is in bar.

There is a discussion on the nozzle somewhere here also.
You can search it.

I suspect the technical library should have the document of the pressure spec.
 
Pressure in new nozzles have been known to very By 200-300 psi. The engine will run and not sound "bad" but power and fuel efficiency really suffer a this. Getting them to with in 25 psi of each other is the goal.

Pressure for n/a engine is 1600, turbo is 2100 are minimum. 1800 and 2300 are more desirable. The higher pressures create a finer mist of fuel and burn better. There are people who run the pressure to 2600,2700 with no reported additional wear on the injector pump. With these higher pressure the pump timing is adjusted due to the delay in getting to pop pressure, but nothing noticeable up to the 2300 level.

For your own knowledge before installation, i suggest put the injector in a soft jaw vice ( or one with a plastic protector on it) and use the same socket that you would for installation to take the top off. There is nothing you will damage by unscrewing and reassembly. Then you would know what nozzles are there.
The best answer is to take the to a shop that can test the pressures for you and add/ remove shims as needed getting the pressures balanced will pay for itself in fuel savings as most shops will only charge 150 or so. When they have them apart for shimming they can read the nozzle.
 
Well as I promised, here is what I've found out. Neither good or bad. And, I don't want hear any I told you sos.

I found a small diesel injection shop about 20 min from my home. He was able to pop test my injectors for me this morning while I waited. He found them to be set at between 2200-2400, with stock range to be 2250-2350. He said that, while not the best total range, they would work fine. He then took one apart to find that they were Bosch bodies with aftermarket tips. Again not bad, just not as good as they could be and they will work. He said the only real bad thing was that I paid too much for what I got. The tips used were just generic aftermarket stock tips, nothing special. He could sell me brand new Stanadine for about $10 more per injector than what I paid for these.

So in the end, I'll use these, because that's what I have and I don't have time to do anything else. They will work, just not as advertised and maybe not as good as they could, but will be fine. Probably better that what is currently in the engine, though.

I will bring the used injectors that I'm taking out back to this shop for rebuilding with Bosch tips at a lot less cost than what I just paid for my education. But, who ever said good education was cheap.
 
You are not the first nor last for this lesson. There is a new set of those injectors in my tool chest that I replaced with bosch. I needed piece of mind on the recent motor swap, so in the drawer they will sit.
 
Well, at least I know now what I have. I have expensive generic aftermarket remanned injectors that pop between2200-2400.
 
The PO on my '99 had installed injectors from Pensacola Diesel, the he had to pull them as they were leaking. He then stalled Bosch Marine injectors from Heath at a cost of $749 for the set. I typically see 16 mpg on the highway with an ATT and I don't think the Marine injectors help with the mileage. I have about 50K miles left on the Bosch Marines, then I'll get a set rebuilt with standard Bosch nozzles.
 
3bals said:
.... But, who ever said good education was cheap.
Click to expand...
Nobody should ever say that.

Lessons Learned:
SSD cooler on the intake is not an 'aftermarket computer." $90 to the "Diesel Specialists" in Lake Havisu and $50 for the EGR solenoid that was the real problem causing the SES.
SSD Downpipe will not fit unless the soot trap mount to the downpipe is modified...buy the whole kit next time...the Diamond Eye one from site sponsors.
SSD Marine Injectors not only don't add 40hp, but they are Delphi, rebuilt to "special specs" and leaked down in no time. Eat the cost, thanks Walt.
New injectors from Accurate Diesel were Medallions and returned for Bosch Rebuilt Injectors, again from Accurate Diesel. One leaked from the body and all had Bosch imprints on the nozzles but were counterfit CKO nozzles. Leaked down after 10K miles.
Bosch Rebuilt Injectors from Heath Diesel with genuine nozzles cost more than the other dealers but are a downright bargain when you don't by a few other sets first.
Install your own aftermarket cooler when you get instead of getting jammed for time and turning it over to another mechanic to put it in wrong.
New OPS, PMD, LP, Fuel Filters, extended harnesses and clean grounds won't cure a stalling problem if the 1st Edition SSD air filter has come apart and sealed the inlet on the turbo (Walt made good on that one cause the turbo didn't get chunked."
And this was just my first two years of ownership. Don't get me started on the engine rebuild....
Moral of the story...Education is expensive and listening to the best salesman doesn't always save money. Do research, trust but verify.
Also, remember to "[not] take life so seriously. Nobody gets out alive."
Hang in there but watch for white smoke on start ups in a few thousand miles just in case those injectors start leaking down.
 
Wow!

I read this site in detail before I purchase anything. I ask questions first and read intently. There are some extremely talented wrenches here. Listen to them, ask questions, follow their advice.
 
The funny thing is that I did ask questions, but got limited answers. That's of course until after I stated that I bought stuff from SSD, then I got all kinds of info.

Here's my plan at this point. 1st, I'm going to contact SSD and relay the info that I found out about the injectors that I received from them. Then, I'm going to install the remanned injector that I picked up from Napa to replace the one that appeared to be the culprit causing my issue (code, missfire on #8). Because that's all I have time for right now.

Then I will order brand new Stanadine injectors tested and balanced from my new to me local injection specialist. After installing those, I will have him reman the ones I take out with Bosch tips and balance them. That should solve any future injector questions that I may have for some time. I do have 1 more set stored away that I will visit after I have that all done.
 
I am sorry if we cannot read your mind about thinking to buy from this particular supplier????

Your Magneto's head must be on, so we cannot read your mind!!! LOL!!!

After all, you are asking about injector and I did not see anybody pointing you toward SSD.

Sorry, if you feel chastised again but we are not a whole bunch of psychic network, you know.:)
 
Paveltolz said:
Nobody should ever say that.

Lessons Learned:
SSD cooler on the intake is not an 'aftermarket computer." $90 to the "Diesel Specialists" in Lake Havisu and $50 for the EGR solenoid that was the real problem causing the SES.
SSD Downpipe will not fit unless the soot trap mount to the downpipe is modified...buy the whole kit next time...the Diamond Eye one from site sponsors.
SSD Marine Injectors not only don't add 40hp, but they are Delphi, rebuilt to "special specs" and leaked down in no time. Eat the cost, thanks Walt.
New injectors from Accurate Diesel were Medallions and returned for Bosch Rebuilt Injectors, again from Accurate Diesel. One leaked from the body and all had Bosch imprints on the nozzles but were counterfit CKO nozzles. Leaked down after 10K miles.
Bosch Rebuilt Injectors from Heath Diesel with genuine nozzles cost more than the other dealers but are a downright bargain when you don't by a few other sets first.
Install your own aftermarket cooler when you get instead of getting jammed for time and turning it over to another mechanic to put it in wrong.
New OPS, PMD, LP, Fuel Filters, extended harnesses and clean grounds won't cure a stalling problem if the 1st Edition SSD air filter has come apart and sealed the inlet on the turbo (Walt made good on that one cause the turbo didn't get chunked."
And this was just my first two years of ownership. Don't get me started on the engine rebuild....
Moral of the story...Education is expensive and listening to the best salesman doesn't always save money. Do research, trust but verify.
Also, remember to "[not] take life so seriously. Nobody gets out alive."
Hang in there but watch for white smoke on start ups in a few thousand miles just in case those injectors start leaking down.
Click to expand...
So Paul, you're the one who had the bad ssd air filter on google searches?:D
You have had bad luck for a long time.:)
 
I'm guessing that I have learned a few things during this injector debacle that I've got myself into.

I've learned to take the tin foil out of my cap when I'm posting questions on this forum :)

I also have learned that there are no injectors other than new stock or high quality remans and they ALL need to be tested to be sure of them being balanced. Stock pop pressure is 2250-2350.

I will probably not buy from SSD again, but may if I can't get a particular NEW oem part somewhere else.

The discussion about buying the fuel misers was off this forum with another person in PMs and emails, so it wasn't included in this thread.

So, as I stated earlier in this post, this decision was on me, I have to live with it and the only person to blame is me for my ignorance on this injector lesson.

Now it's time to move forward and get this show on the road.

Thanks for all the thoughts and comments that helped me learn. :banana:
 
Here's a pic of the difference between the old, leaking SSD "marine" Injectors and the new (well, a damn good reman) Kennedy Bosch high pop injectors. The SSD had no markings whatsoever and were black, which leads me to believe they were made from black iron, experience in the oil field has shown me that black iron is weak as hell (ala std pipe nipples will blow over maybe 3000psi) anyways call me crazy, but i will never buy black injectors again for that reason.

rsz_6photo.jpg
 
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