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new engine for the old girl

devildogadam said:
I had the pump off because I initially planed on using the other block. But then changed my mind and used this 599 block. I did mark it but I didn't get it back on perfect so now I need to do the relearn. I am having a heck of a time finding someone with gmtech 2. I found a scanner with it online for around $300 but just can't afford that right now. I can't wait to see how she moves once it is set properly. It goes pretty good right now. I am loving picking my own gears and the feeling of a direct link between my rear tires and engine.
Click to expand...

Too bad you weren't closer, I have a Tech 2.
 
turbovanman said:
I don't think air matters in the injector return lines, just if you see it at the IP, then that's bad.
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Correct. When you install the rubber connecting lines from on injector to the next you are trapping air in there. It does not matter, or else they would have to be bled off.
 
So far I am really starting to love this transmission even more. When I first did the swap I wasn't really happy with the way the truck behaved, but now I am starting to see where this thing really shines. Even with the timing off it is faster than it was with the automatic transmission (provided you can row through the gears fast enough, which takes some fair amount of skill). I still have the timing issue but now have a plan of attack and a very expensive tool. I know that in my hot tune it should idle at 1100 rpm but right now it is idling around 800, and will barely stay running if I switch it to the eco tune. So I plan on getting it nice and warm then shutting it down to make a small pump adjustment, basically trial and error until she is idling where it should. Once I do that I will start posting some videos so you all can list in to me grind third gear.
 
20150208_143542.jpg 20150208_143522.jpg OK so today I towed for the first time with my manual transmission. I was very happy at first. The thing pulled like a train. Would run smooth and quite at 75 mph with what seemed to be 1,000,000 HP. Then I hit some mountain passes and very long very steep grades that brought my truck to its knees. It got very hot twice around 235 ECT and once up to about 250 ECT. EGTS only hit 1150 once though.

The truck is fine and still running like a top, I think mostly because of those amazing head studs, thanks leroy.


So my biggest complaint is my WIDE ratio transmission. If I am starting out on any grade I have too run third gear all the way to the red line before I can shift. Even then I hit 4th at a boggy 2200 rpm. There is a 1200 rpm gap between 3rd and 4th and that is the hardest thing to overcome when towing. I loose boost and billow smoke, then EGTS spike and ECTS follow.

This only causes me problems on the toughest of hills. Over all I am extremely happy with this current set up.
 
I only have small Texas hills here to worry about. I still have the same issue you have. The small Texas hills get every gauge I can read hot! I refuse to let my coolant temp gauge get above 210F. I have yet to see EGT's above 1100.

Too fix the issue is a good question. I have been thinking about a gear venders but, need lots of cash for that. Changing gears in the diff but, also cost more of what I do not have. I would also like a ATT Turbo but, no cash. For know I am just living with it.

You can see in my sig everything I have upgraded. It is still the same. When I figure it out I promise to share.
 
If you have any grades where you are going you need a bigger turbo for towing. It's the turbo bringing you to your knees. 2200 is the peak TQ of the engine with the small turbo where the engine just doesn't want to rev faster with a load. The small turbo also keeps heat in the engine as seen in ECT. A bigger turbo will pull from 2K all the way to redline and make that shift landing at 2200 perfect.

What are you running for cooling system upgrades? You don't want to run over 210 ECT. <-- That's a period. If you don't scuff a piston like post #8 you will crack something. I would change the oil ASAP as the high temp run likely ruined the conventional oil. I had lots of trouble with oil stepping up to 50 weight from 40 weight from cooking it. (Indicating the oil is burned/ruined.)
 
Right now my coolant system is as follows

195 degree t-stat
1998 water pump
Stock fan
Stock clutch
Funny home made cross over tube thingy from original owner
 

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Right now my coolant system is as follows

195 degree t-stat
1998 water pump
Stock fan This is killing your engine. Need the 1998 21" steel fan or 2002 Duramax fan.
Stock clutch As in from 1994? These loose 200 RPM a year and are dead (need replacement) at 5 years. The original clutches overheated and couldn't hold at full lockup up a grade even when new. Fails you when needed most.
Funny home made cross over tube thingy from original owner. I would put a plug in the pump and plug the other end of that hose. No need to recirculate more hot water as that is all it's doing.

I assume you have cleaned out behind the oil coolers as a mat of derbis plugs the condenser causing airflow issues. Due to the body design our trucks have a severe airflow problem across the radiator taking a better fan to "fix" it. A "low temp" fan clutch gets the fan on sooner. If you are going to tow hard I can't recommend a low temp fan (or modding a new clutch) clutch highly enough. Kennedy Diesel sells them.

The stock 6 blade fan will let you know scrap metal, that that fan is, is down to $80/ton when you drop the fan off with the ruined 6.5 block. Been there done that...
 
devildogadam said:
View attachment 44208 View attachment 44211 OK so today I towed for the first time with my manual transmission. . . . Then I hit some mountain passes and very long very steep grades . . .

So my biggest complaint is my WIDE ratio transmission. If I am starting out on any grade I have too run third gear all the way to the red line before I can shift. Even then I hit 4th at a boggy 2200 rpm. There is a 1200 rpm gap between 3rd and 4th and that is the hardest thing to overcome when towing. I loose boost and billow smoke, then EGTS spike and ECTS follow.

This only causes me problems on the toughest of hills. Over all I am extremely happy with this current set up.
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Good set of details!

Getting less sold on the 5 speed for just those reasons. Time to dust-off finding a 6 speed solution.


For the cooling issues, am with WW. Previous winter with an OE setup and 190* F thermostats, ECT's (as reported by the ECM) were ~180F. This winter with a DMax fan, new fan clutch, and 195* F thermostats, ECM rarely shows over 170* F in the same conditions. Only other difference in configurations is that am currently running Evans coolant and I replaced the water pump for a new spin-on. Well, Ok, there is one more difference in that the previous configuration was a 599 block and now I have a P-400; not sure that this plays into the cooling, but just want to mention all the variables.
 
I am assuming one of the many prior owners was military. Because the hmmv t-stat/crossover housing has a port there. This one was welded on there by Joe smoe.
 
JayTheCPA said:
Good set of details!

Getting less sold on the 5 speed for just those reasons. Time to dust-off finding a 6 speed solution.


For the cooling issues, am with WW. Previous winter with an OE setup and 190* F thermostats, ECT's (as reported by the ECM) were ~180F. This winter with a DMax fan, new fan clutch, and 195* F thermostats, ECM rarely shows over 170* F in the same conditions. Only other difference in configurations is that am currently running Evans coolant and I replaced the water pump for a new spin-on. Well, Ok, there is one more difference in that the previous configuration was a 599 block and now I have a P-400; not sure that this plays into the cooling, but just want to mention all the variables.
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You have an issue if you have 195 thermostats and it never gets over 170 on a decently long drive.

GEP heads have slight revisions in cooling passages to enhance valve bridge cooling in an attempt to decrease the cracking experienced in that region. It is also redesigned to increase flow, which scours steam pockets away created by the 6.5 diesel heads, with essentially hold 70% of the combustion chamber volume (ie: prechmaber).

But this would still not account for never getting over 170 with a 195 thermostat (OE thermostats if using the dual design) in place......
 
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