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Long, slow build of my truck

At one point, somebody on this site mentioned Super Steer for front end upgrades. I had it saved to my Favorites. I just went to their website and it looks like they've stopped supporting our generation of truck for the most part! They do have an Idler Support Bracket listed, but I thought they used to have more parts for our trucks. Perhaps a phone call could get you some parts that aren't listed? They aren't cheap, but if you're having repeated problems it may be worth the money.

http://www.supersteerparts.com/
 
It was me who suggested the Super Steer and MOOG problem solver parts.

The super steer idler bracket replaces the bronze bushing w/tapered wheel bearings are great move to BETTER, I use this product.

I've been knocking around a lower pit man arm support W/bearing like the Ram's use to fit the GMT400.
 
It was me who suggested the Super Steer and MOOG problem solver parts.

The super steer idler bracket replaces the bronze bushing w/tapered wheel bearings are great move to BETTER, I use this product.

I've been knocking around a lower pit man arm support W/bearing like the Ram's use to fit the GMT400.
I thought it was you, I just couldn't remember for sure. ;)
 
Got the ATT back on today with a hand from Nick. Definitely a difference with the new exhaust housing. Spool is still slow on the low end, but on the top end I am seeing 12-15psi and about 1100 degrees or so. I did hit 1225, but that was to see how hot I could get it. I also put the Peninsular upper intake back on, so its 3" pipe going into the engine, coupled with the Diamond Eye system on the exhaust side. Lots of volume! No idea how smokey it is with the Heath ECM as the test drive was at night, but its probably pretty darn smokey. Currently in talks with Slim about a KOJO tune as well.
 
So I've put about 500 miles on the truck since swapping the ATT back on, and its great. Definitely not as snappy down low compared to the HX35, but the top end makes up for it. The truck pulls pretty hard considering the tune is not written FOR the turbo. Its still a slow, doggy 6.5, but its definitely peppier than most. Smoke clears up quicker than the HX, but is more noticeable sometimes due to the tune holding shifts a little too long. Does great on the highway once its spooled. I cruised yesterday for about 70 miles doing 75mph, 3-5psi, 500-600EGT. Pulls hard on a downshift, I see about 13-15psi. Have not had it hotter 1225 still. Very pleased even with the incorrect tune.
 
Picking up a used block for free this week from a buddy of mine out of a 96. Another friend with a 6.2 is giving me a brand new set of ARP head studs that he wound up not needing on his truck also. Have a couple ideas regarding center mount turbos that I want to play around with, hence the block. Studs will be good to have on the shelf if/when I ever need them.
 
For guys that run aftermarket fuel filter systems, aka no more FFM setup, what did you do for a return? Im doing Feed the Beast and also changing over to 3/8" fuel lines for the whole truck, and will be using a spin-on style filter.
 
For guys that run aftermarket fuel filter systems, aka no more FFM setup, what did you do for a return? Im doing Feed the Beast and also changing over to 3/8" fuel lines for the whole truck, and will be using a spin-on style filter.
Consider, a fuel accumulator installed before the IP so starving at WOT will never be a problem.
 
This isn't exactly what you asked, but here is what I did in case it helps. I did the Feed the Beast mod to the FFM (including slightly porting the inlet) so it now uses 3/8" hose. I then remote mounted it so it was easier to access for filter replacement and to inspect for leaks. I also have a spin-on filter between the tank and the lift pump. I have no fuel starvation issues.

FFM1.jpg FFM2.jpg FFM3.jpg FFM4.jpg FFM5.jpg
 
For guys that run aftermarket fuel filter systems, aka no more FFM setup, what did you do for a return? Im doing Feed the Beast and also changing over to 3/8" fuel lines for the whole truck, and will be using a spin-on style filter.
I was thinking about this some more, and actually the return line has nothing to do with the FFM - it's a separate line. It's a hard line that runs down the valley of the engine. When I did my fuel system upgrades I ran new hose from the hard line on the engine all the way to the fuel sending unit in the fuel tank.

This is the hose I used. The "30R9" is the important spec that I looked for.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EMDS6C/?tag=jhuntlink-20
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
I forgot that the 3rd port on the FFM goes to the T-valve for water drain. So I should be able to install my fuel system and not worry about touching any returns.
 
Picked up a long block out of a van today. Really only wanted the exhaust manifolds, but wound up with the block, internals, tstat housing, and intake setup too. No pump, turbo, or other accessories. Engine supposedly had about 300k on it and ran well. 2000 GM 506 block. I will be keeping the exhaust manifolds. Rest of the parts will be available on the cheap.
 
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