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Long, slow build of my truck

So model year 2000 pump is the one I want? Do I need a different gasket or are they all the same?
 
Gasket should come with the water pump, but they are all the same. As stated, you'll need the spin on fan.


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Are there any stampings or insignias on the outside of the water pump that show the difference of the balance flow compared to the HO?
 
Good, I want to change out the fan and clutch at the same time. Kennedy's parts to do that look pretty good. Thoughts?
 
Scuttlebutt is that Kennedy's fan clutch is good and the Hayden 2886 is possibly better if the truck has towing in its future.

As AK mentions, build a restriction prior to installing the water pump.
 
Can you explain what a restrictor is, why I need it, and how to build it? I know nothing about water pumps.
 
Will L. said:
Are there any stampings or insignias on the outside of the water pump that show the difference of the balance flow compared to the HO?
Click to expand...
Will: I'll check for some markings, will be dropping the front diff for change out to my recently redone ARB unit I can take pictures of my enhanced block then and post them too. Yes I have more than one front diff so I can still roll when something needs fixing.

My burb at times has been a bear to get parts for because parts books usually ended at 1998 back in the day. I actually had to resort to the 1998 or 2000 parts back then the dealer who sold this Burb new didn't even have a qualified mechanic to work on the 6.5td and it was not just that dealer as I found out many times trying to get things fixed at any GM store finally found a few good AM General/Heavy Truck service stores I used with success for awhile.

Water pump is a good example I'm always told my water pump is not the spin on type fan setup but that is what is was built with the same part number some vendors sell as the latest balanced flow pump w/spin on fan.
 
pacificdrumma said:
Can you explain what a restrictor is, why I need it, and how to build it? I know nothing about water pumps.
Click to expand...

My 1999 Burb's cooling system is equipped from factory with the latest 6.5td H/O balanced flow water pump when using EGW only one restrictor was incorporated into system @ the heater hose feed (GM upfitter manual states: if the heater is deleted or flow is shut off to heater core then a loop must be used from the thermostat housing heater port to the radiator heater port on top passenger side of rad to allow flow of the returning coolant). When I switched to the EVANS waterless coolant I actually had to install a restrictor at the bypass between the thermostat housing and water pump to get the 6.5 to warm normally and then noticed something else "the diesel cooling temps became more stable @ speed and cools down right away in traffic or stop/go situations."

Look @ the military build string for what the restrictor is it is posted there in detail.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/a-military-rebuilt-6-5.43832/
 
What I got out of the restrictor was that it forced more water to go to the rad rather than thru the heater core and back into the engine.
 
Update, having put over 1500mi on the truck with the tune, I can say I am mostly very satisfied and feel that it was well worth the $400. My only complaint is the lack of top end power, but I need to try a bigger turbo to see if its lack of air, or lack of fuel. I suspect lack of fuel, but we will find out. The truck drives like a stock truck when you want it to, but romp on it, and you have a smokey, fire-breathing monster that will slightly push you in the seat. Extremely streetable power, not hard to make it burn clean either. Should have the gauges finished up this weekend so I can film a video about it all.
 
Update time! After some minor setbacks, the gauge install is finally complete, and we are up and running. Cruising around, boost is 0-5psi, 5-10psi going up a hill, and 12-18psi under moderate/heavy acceleration. Fuel pressure is 9psi at idle, 2-3psi at WOT, and everywhere in between depending on RPM and load %. EGT is 600-800 driving around, 350 at hot idle, and 1100 under WOT sustained. EGT probe is pre-turbo, and fuel psi is pre-filter (not ideal, working on new setup). I am planning to remove the tank sock, and run the gauge on post-filter fuel for a true reading of psi. Have not seen over 9psi yet.

What really interests me is the lack of boost. The turbo really doesn't light until about 2000-2100rpm, despite it being "only" a 12cm housing. I don't think that this is due to a lack of fuel/incorrect tuning, as the truck seems to not need the turbo until 2k. Driving around on 0-5psi boost, I see relatively little to no haze, no smoke, EGT's are in check. The engine is doing the work, not the turbo. However, once it lights, it will spool to 18psi in the blink of an eye.

I contacted Bill Heath regarding my tune being not super impressive on the highway, and got a response promptly. He requested information regarding what I see for boost, egt, and fuel psi at various speeds and rpms, sure is convenient that I have a gauge for each request. Interesting tidbit, the stock pump can handle up to 80mm^3 of fuel, which is what my tune is set for. The LSR truck has the same amount of fuel, on a stock IP per Bill. Anyway, I replied with much of the same information as above, and I am interested to see what Bill comes up with in the way of adjustments for the tune. I do a fair amount of highway driving, and I would like to be able to cruise at 70-75 the way I could with my GM-4 at 3psi, and stock tune on stock lift pump.
 
JayTheCPA said:
Scuttlebutt is that Kennedy's fan clutch is good and the Hayden 2886 is possibly better if the truck has towing in its future.

As AK mentions, build a restriction prior to installing the water pump.
Click to expand...

After trying the Hayden - the Kennedy's fan clutch comes on sooner to stop the ECT runaway. For AC at idle I like the Duramax fan, but, top RPM towing the clutch is designed for the steel fan and should run with that. You can't go wrong with either fan as I have ran all three. (The stock 6 blade is a fing bad joke.) The Kennedy fan clutch with the known 15 degree lower setpoint delivers as advertized: keeps me cool in 121 degree weather towing a grade with the AC on high. It is worth every cent of the additional $75 for the KD clutch.

Note: the WP restriction is only needed on dual thermostat setups. The single T-Stat has a built in bypass blocker on the bottom that closes off the bypass when it gets hot.
 
I dynoed the truck again last night, same setup as when it made 160/320 except now with the Heath tune. Details are in my sig. The tune brought it up to 190/380, so gains of 30/60 at the wheels. Heath claims gains of up to 80/100 at the crank (55/70 at the wheels assuming 30% loss via automatic trans), so my torque gains were close, but the hp was a little lower than I was hoping. But my injectors are probably worn, and the engine probably isnt as tight as it was when new. Just thought I would let you guys know since a lot of people guess what they are making, or guess what kind of gains a tune gives them. Kind of disappointing, but for $400 and a much more fun truck, I am not complaining.
 
I always wonder about that xx% loss through a transmission. I find it hard to believe that at 100hp an engine will lose 30hp but a 1000hp engine running through the exact same tranny would lose 300hp. I would think that the percentage of loss would go down the more hp your engine is putting out. Just a thought though.

Good numbers though to show what kind of hp/tq you really gain from these tunes. And that was with a better turbo too so I would imagine running a stock turbo would result and lower numbers.


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3500_6.5 said:
I always wonder about that xx% loss through a transmission. I find it hard to believe that at 100hp an engine will lose 30hp but a 1000hp engine running through the exact same tranny would lose 300hp. I would think that the percentage of loss would go down the more hp your engine is putting out. Just a thought though.

Good numbers though to show what kind of hp/tq you really gain from these tunes. And that was with a better turbo too so I would imagine running a stock turbo would result and lower numbers.


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Click to expand...

Im not so sure about the turbo thing. I friend of mine ran a Heath tune with an HX40WII and he said he was OK, but the truck screwed with the GM-5 he had before. But he said his EGT's were thru the roof with the GM. I hit 1200* on the dyno, previously it hadn't gone above 1125 in daily driving/romping on it.
 
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