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HX40II Turbo Install

I left the brass ring in place... Someone post some pics on how to remove it and what the actual difference is. :)

... $ wise it depends. But yes I agree that they are within a couple hundred of each other.

Basic HX40II:
- Turbo $280
- Downpipe and fitting $115
- 2.25 to 2.5 coupler and t-bolts est $15
- Mouting bolts est $10
- Oil drain hose extension est $5
- 90 degree 4" to 3" elbow and t-bolts est $25
- reuse existing air intake $0

= $450*

* Since it seems that I am the only one sharing the COMPLETE parts list and $$$, someone feel free to input your real costs as well so there is more of a sampling. * (especially on the other site, there are loads of pictures but very little of $ or how-to. this is a much much better discussion thread here on TTS :) )

** My costs were whacked by the true 4" K47 intake and battery upgrade with The Big 3 0/1 wire install. **

The ATT seems to have a 3" inlet so that you can reuse the existing air intake system. I think the chopped up intake manifold is less than appealing on the ATT intstalls though. Also once in place with the HX40II, the 4" air intake is pretty cool :) (whether it adds anything productive HP wise is another question though, lol)

I still think for towing the ATT is the way to go. For day to day HX40II. YMMV, that was my logic anyway.



Pillow are those estimated costs or actual known costs. Also cutting the intake back was necessary since the ATT turbo sits one half inch forward and a half inch higher. I wonder if you would reconsider the chopped up intake after seeing the new silicone intake set up for the ATT.
I will get a picture

What is done going from the four inch on the hx knock off to the standard air box. Silicone hose is expensive last time I purchased them. If you are getting them (silicone five ply) that cheap (25) and hose clamps please let me know where. Thanks

Also didn't the price go up on the hx knock off from the original 280 dollars?

Has anyone gotten any solid numbers on the back pressure readings at various boost readings and intake temps on 90 degree days under sustained boost? I think Tim Turbine Doc covered most of that with the A team Turbo and Buddy did the back pressure calculations.

Be nice to see numbers side by side, Small 14 cm housing verses the larger A-team housing. Sorry for the questions but banned at the other site and can only ask questions over here.
 
I think Adrian did a pretty good job of tracking actual costs here. Thanks for contributing to the discussion, pal!

Obviously, I think it's good to have the questions, discussions, and personal observations all out in the open, guys. I can't imagine only allowing one point of view to be represented; nobody can stop that from happening here, and we know everybody will work together to find the ups and downs.

I am really looking forward to Bruce getting the opportunity to do some head-to-head testing; is that still on the order chart? Brutus with that pretty 5er is sure a good test-bed!

I've consistently espoused a couple of thoughts around performance issues:

a) different purposes = different mods. The ATT might be the best for towing, the HX might be better at empty daily driving. I don't know that, but it might be that way. Doesn't mean one is better, means you have to match the mod to your needs.

b) Different trucks react differently. People who brag up the butt-dyno and compare different mods on different trucks are missing the fact that the same mod can have different effects on different trucks.

Obviously, (b) FURTHER complicates (a)

I want to see the different mods, on the same vehicle, under differing conditions. Then (and ONLY then) can I compare my vehicle and use to the ones I'm seeing and make the best choice for me. Then, (and ONLY then) will I be completely happy, because I got to choose the RIGHT part for my vehicle and my use.

And it will still be a compromise... like everything else. But it will be MY compromise.

UNlike some places, I trust the vendors here to understand and support that. Happy customers = repeat customers = good recommendations.

Uh .. rant off. Quick, beam me up, before the guy in the red shirt gets killed.
 
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Well i started my hx40II turbo install earlier today. Not complete yet. Still got a few things to button up. I think im gonna make my own air box cause i cant get the k47 to work how i want it, might sell it.

Parts to do the install,

Turbo- 280

Dp adapter, band clamp and oil fitting- 120

T bolt clamps, 4- 4", 1- 2.25", 1- 2.50" - $16

silicone couplers- 2- 4" 90s, 1- 2.25" to 2.50" reducer, 1- 4" silicone joiner- $70

So we are looking at around $500 for this install

Here re some pics of what i got done so far, still a work in progress.

IMG_1040.jpgIMG_1041.jpgIMG_1042.jpg
 
I came up with the same problem with the S&B filter box to waste gate actuator Jorge.... However, I've already paid $300.00 for my air filter kit. I will make it work.
 
I hope my questions came across correctly. I am not criticizing anything just nice to be able to ask a few questions. I have not been over to the place,since I was banned and told that I can not view their web page content without the chance of being sued. So I have not been able to get any more information than I have gleaned here.

Been talking with Racedaymechanic and we are setting things up for a straight up comparison. I actually would like to try one on my truck so if anyone has one to donate, Maybe Raceday and I could exchange turbos. THAT is an Idea. ROAD TRIP ?
So no hard feelings I hope.
 
Well i started my hx40II turbo install earlier today. Not complete yet. Still got a few things to button up. I think im gonna make my own air box cause i cant get the k47 to work how i want it, might sell it.

Parts to do the install,

Turbo- 280

Dp adapter, band clamp and oil fitting- 120

T bolt clamps, 4- 4", 1- 2.25", 1- 2.50" - $16

silicone couplers- 2- 4" 90s, 1- 2.25" to 2.50" reducer, 1- 4" silicone joiner- $70

So we are looking at around $500 for this install

Here re some pics of what i got done so far, still a work in progress.

View attachment 32073View attachment 32074View attachment 32075




How much room do you need? Couldn't you remove the part of the air box where it hits and make a metal patch inside the air box to reseal it? Is it possible you have some motor mount deterioration that may contribute to the clearance issue? A heating and cooling shop can fab you a air box out of alum for a reasonable price.
 
Hey Dennis, how's going ?

I think it's just that the waste gate actuator protrudes too far into the "air box area". I am actually gonna just make a new bracket that re-positions the waste gate actuator down lower so it can no longer violate my air box space.

Mike
 
That is correct, this turbo is so much bigger than the gm turbos. The huge waste gate actuator is right in the way. Now that you guys got me thinking, I might think about removing the piece of the air box that connects the box to the hole in the fender. that might be enough room to use it. Ill try it out and let you guys know.
 
Congratulations Jorge!!! Looks great! I will be impatiently waiting to see what your impressions are as well. Did you remove the "silencer ring"? How did you get the stock filter to fit on a 4" pipe?.. I am not sure that stock side post battery is going back in the hole either..?

JiFaire, thanks for the support. I hope that I am not running anyone down negatively in this discussion. I've tried to be as forthcoming as possible with all the costs and data.

Pillow are those estimated costs or actual known costs. Also cutting the intake back was necessary since the ATT turbo sits one half inch forward and a half inch higher. I wonder if you would reconsider the chopped up intake after seeing the new silicone intake set up for the ATT.
I will get a picture

I would like to see updated pictures of the intake parts. I know it was discussed a while back, but I did not see an updated product listing on the webpage... Sorry, but the slinky red connection tube does not do the rest of the install justice IMO. The revised intake with silicone couples is definitely the way to go!

What is done going from the four inch on the hx knock off to the standard air box. Silicone hose is expensive last time I purchased them. If you are getting them (silicone five ply) that cheap (25) and hose clamps please let me know where. Thanks

I purchased the silicone parts through www.siliconeintakes.com and was pleasantly surprised by the excellent quality for the price!.. Made in China parts though. I have done everything from el cheapo gar-bay silicone to Sparco quality. Honestly the silicone intakes products were essentially the same quality as the high end made in USA/England stuff. I was pleasantly surprised and would recommend they to anyone.

Also didn't the price go up on the hx knock off from the original 280 dollars?

As of last week the price was still at $280 on gar-bay.

Has anyone gotten any solid numbers on the back pressure readings at various boost readings and intake temps on 90 degree days under sustained boost? I think Tim Turbine Doc covered most of that with the A team Turbo and Buddy did the back pressure calculations.

Beyond my level at this point. :)

Be nice to see numbers side by side, Small 14 cm housing verses the larger A-team housing. Sorry for the questions but banned at the other site and can only ask questions over here.

There is little to no actual technical discussion on the HX40II at the other Place, just pictures. No costs either. Part of this, I believe and someone correct me here, is that Bruce has had to layback on his input as to not offend the powers that be at the Place.

Again, I am trying to paint a clear picture of the HX40II install. I have shown you all the bad, good, and costs. In fact my costs were MORE than what a standard ATT install would be, but that was my choice. The HX40II is not a perfect magic bullet, but better than the GM-8 for my setup... Shoot, if you have a bone stock engine then stick with a GM-8 and call it a day.
 
I too would like a comparison between the att, and the hx40.
But what I want isn't a butt dyno, pressure, or on vehicle comparison.

I want turbo spec comparison. Something that I have failed to find in all my digging and searching.

The hx40 that most are using here are a 60/64/16. That is a 60 compressor, 64 exhaust, 16cm housing. 7 or 6 blade compressor wheel, and 10 or 12 blade exhaust wheel.

What are the specs of the att? Anyone?
 
Pilliow, I have yet to remove the silencer ring. I wasnt quite sure of the best way to do remove it with out damaging anything. I really want to take it out!

I used the stock tube from the k47 box and cut the tube going into the filter i then cleanly wrapped it with electrical tape for now so the 4" elbow fit on snugly.

Already test fitted the battery and it fits. I have one top post mount interstate that im gonna put in place and use the top mounts.

Gonna give the k47 another try

Thanks for the compliments.
 
I too would like a comparison between the att, and the hx40.
But what I want isn't a butt dyno, pressure, or on vehicle comparison.

I want turbo spec comparison. Something that I have failed to find in all my digging and searching.

The hx40 that most are using here are a 60/64/16. That is a 60 compressor, 64 exhaust, 16cm housing. 7 or 6 blade compressor wheel, and 10 or 12 blade exhaust wheel.

What are the specs of the att? Anyone?

that will take a bit of digging.... but here is a start...http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4448254&postcount=721
 
I finally got the turbo installed, it is awesome! The boost comes on fast and too much right now. Im gonna have to lower boost big time, i did wot for about one second and boost flew to about 20 psi thats when i quickly let off the throttle. The sound how the turbo is great. The motor sounds a little quieter and smoother and the whistle is amazing it very audible through out the rpm range and can even hear it out the tail pipe while idling

Cant really judge my IATs right now cause im running no air box I know they will drop back down once i figure out how im getting the k47 to fit n nicely.

I still want to remove that silencer ring to see what it will sound like.

Driving up hills is so much easier now, the boost is instant and acceleration is great. Still need to do some fine tuning to get it fully dialed in.

Here are a few pics of how im currently running my set up.

IMG_1044.jpgIMG_1045.jpgIMG_1046.jpg
 
Pilliow, I have yet to remove the silencer ring. I wasnt quite sure of the best way to do remove it with out damaging anything. I really want to take it out!

I used the stock tube from the k47 box and cut the tube going into the filter i then cleanly wrapped it with electrical tape for now so the 4" elbow fit on snugly.

Already test fitted the battery and it fits. I have one top post mount interstate that im gonna put in place and use the top mounts.

Gonna give the k47 another try

Thanks for the compliments.

IIRC the ring is held in by a ring type clamp. Some people claim improvements in airflow and lower intake temps. Whats behind the ring is an anti surge groove that helps protect against compressor surge and in some cases can widen the usable portions of the compressor map
 
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