Jorge6.5
Well-Known Member
Go to the first page in this thread and read on from there.
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HX40II Turbo Install
- Thread starter racedaymechanic
- Start date
Pillow
Recruit
OMG time for addition...
Materials List:
Turbo $280 http://www.ebay.com/itm/120854427128?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Downpipe and Oil Fitting from RaceDayMechanic $120
Air Intake Parts from SiliconeIntakes.com $115 (FWIW RaceDayMechanic says he can provide as well for future builds)
- 1' AL Pipe
- 2.25" to 2.5" Silicone Reducer
- 2 4" 90 degree Silicone elbows
- T-Bolt clamp 2.25"
- T-Bolt clamp 2.5"
- 5 T-Bolt clamp 4"
K&N Universal Performance Air Filter RE-0870 from Amazon.com $41
Turbo mounting bolts (4), washers (8), lock washers (4), and nuts (4) for 1" longer than stock bolts est $10 at Home Depot (I had some laying around already)
6" 3/4" ID rubber hose for the oil drain pipe extension est $5 (I had some laying around already)
2 Duralast Gold Batteries 34DT-DLG $230 (you could choose to just change one and save $)
0/1 and 4 gauge Wire and misc install supplies for battery change $100 (probably a low estimate, but I overkilled like a champ)
(Hint: it would help to have a stubby set of metric box end wrenches for the turbo installation bolts. Pretty tight quarters.)
Total Cost: $901
The real kick in the pants was the wiring/battery changes. Granted I think if you stuck with a 3" to 4" 90 degree reducer elbow off the turbo that you could avoid the need for changing batteries and the extra expense incurred there, then add the 90 degree long street sewer elbow as described in other threads. Now if you want to stick with a true 4" intake system with the K47 air box, then I see no other way of getting around this issue.
Materials List:
Turbo $280 http://www.ebay.com/itm/120854427128?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Downpipe and Oil Fitting from RaceDayMechanic $120
Air Intake Parts from SiliconeIntakes.com $115 (FWIW RaceDayMechanic says he can provide as well for future builds)
- 1' AL Pipe
- 2.25" to 2.5" Silicone Reducer
- 2 4" 90 degree Silicone elbows
- T-Bolt clamp 2.25"
- T-Bolt clamp 2.5"
- 5 T-Bolt clamp 4"
K&N Universal Performance Air Filter RE-0870 from Amazon.com $41
Turbo mounting bolts (4), washers (8), lock washers (4), and nuts (4) for 1" longer than stock bolts est $10 at Home Depot (I had some laying around already)
6" 3/4" ID rubber hose for the oil drain pipe extension est $5 (I had some laying around already)
2 Duralast Gold Batteries 34DT-DLG $230 (you could choose to just change one and save $)
0/1 and 4 gauge Wire and misc install supplies for battery change $100 (probably a low estimate, but I overkilled like a champ)
(Hint: it would help to have a stubby set of metric box end wrenches for the turbo installation bolts. Pretty tight quarters.)
Total Cost: $901
The real kick in the pants was the wiring/battery changes. Granted I think if you stuck with a 3" to 4" 90 degree reducer elbow off the turbo that you could avoid the need for changing batteries and the extra expense incurred there, then add the 90 degree long street sewer elbow as described in other threads. Now if you want to stick with a true 4" intake system with the K47 air box, then I see no other way of getting around this issue.
Pillow
Recruit
All 0/1, except three runs which were 4 gauge (starter, ground on pass side fender, and power to the under hood fuse box).
I added two grounds to the frame as well. So two grounds to the block like stock, plus two grounds to the main frame rails below the engine. Again all 0/1 gauge.
Even 0/1 to the Alternator to Battery connection.
... Overkill like crazy I know. But the car audio guys would be pleased with the completeness of the "Big 3" upgrade! LOL
racedaymechanic
Active Member
You could do like I did and move things around a little http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?33247-Air-Box-Relocation
Jorge6.5
Well-Known Member
Bruce, where did you get the battery box for the relocated battery or is that a custom jobber?
Pillow
Recruit
Driving Impressions!!! (keep in mind I am still set at 20 PSI stock out of the box boost)
... Damn, this thing is much faster! Especially at speed, like a 60-70 roll on.
The biggest plus is there is no longer a "barrier" at 65 MPH that the GM-8 had when cruising. I always attributed this as getting over the torque sweet spot, this is not the case. The GM-8 must be hitting its comfortable flow limits at around 2250RPM... I know that sounds crazy, but the only explanation I have. The HX40II just keeps going up to 70! Well that's as fast as I got today anyway
Sustained boost is about 2-3 PSI lower at cruise than with the GM-8. I will have more data tomorrow at a steady 65MPH on the interstate.
Boost spools up very quickly just like with the GM-8. Really no big difference here that I can see... Granted I really had to keep my foot out of the throttle to stay below 15 PSI!!! Once the wastegate gets set properly at 14-15 PSI max this thing is going to be deadly
That said, the HX40II is FAST! Again I could barely get over 1/2 throttle due to fear of overboosting and the Burb still kicked ass!
... Life is not all roses though. The Pyro told the sad story... From what I can tell, the Pyro temps are about the same as with the GM-8. Again, limited seat time, but cruise still set about 600F, take off briskly around 900F, sustained take off to 70MPH about 1100F... In reality though, a hard run to 70 MPH with the GM-8 and Heath GL4 chip would get hotter than 1100F and you would have to back off a little at the end. Maybe I am being too hard, but the temps are a tad better, but nothing to write home about. More to come with more miles.
Overall I like it! The power alone is worth it! But the real bonus I think will be less boost at cruise as well as better breathing at cruise = better efficiency. I can cruise at 70 with ease now where I could not before.
... Damn, this thing is much faster! Especially at speed, like a 60-70 roll on.
The biggest plus is there is no longer a "barrier" at 65 MPH that the GM-8 had when cruising. I always attributed this as getting over the torque sweet spot, this is not the case. The GM-8 must be hitting its comfortable flow limits at around 2250RPM... I know that sounds crazy, but the only explanation I have. The HX40II just keeps going up to 70! Well that's as fast as I got today anyway
Sustained boost is about 2-3 PSI lower at cruise than with the GM-8. I will have more data tomorrow at a steady 65MPH on the interstate.
Boost spools up very quickly just like with the GM-8. Really no big difference here that I can see... Granted I really had to keep my foot out of the throttle to stay below 15 PSI!!! Once the wastegate gets set properly at 14-15 PSI max this thing is going to be deadly
That said, the HX40II is FAST! Again I could barely get over 1/2 throttle due to fear of overboosting and the Burb still kicked ass!
... Life is not all roses though. The Pyro told the sad story... From what I can tell, the Pyro temps are about the same as with the GM-8. Again, limited seat time, but cruise still set about 600F, take off briskly around 900F, sustained take off to 70MPH about 1100F... In reality though, a hard run to 70 MPH with the GM-8 and Heath GL4 chip would get hotter than 1100F and you would have to back off a little at the end. Maybe I am being too hard, but the temps are a tad better, but nothing to write home about. More to come with more miles.
Overall I like it! The power alone is worth it! But the real bonus I think will be less boost at cruise as well as better breathing at cruise = better efficiency. I can cruise at 70 with ease now where I could not before.
Jorge6.5
Well-Known Member
That is great news! Reading that is getting me all excited, cant wait to see how mine will perform.
Pillow
Recruit
RaceDayMechanic: How did you adjust the wastegate on the HX40II?
True, I could have moved the battery... But honestly, I am not the best fabricator. LOL I do like the quality of your relocation though!
Plus when complete on mine I want it to look stock... Then it may leave a few people scratching their heads and saying "dang that thing hauls for a raggedy ol' 6.5"
True, I could have moved the battery... But honestly, I am not the best fabricator. LOL I do like the quality of your relocation though!
Plus when complete on mine I want it to look stock... Then it may leave a few people scratching their heads and saying "dang that thing hauls for a raggedy ol' 6.5"
racedaymechanic
Active Member
RaceDayMechanic: How did you adjust the wastegate on the HX40II?
True, I could have moved the battery... But honestly, I am not the best fabricator. LOL I do like the quality of your relocation though!
Plus when complete on mine I want it to look stock... Then it may leave a few people scratching their heads and saying "dang that thing hauls for a raggedy ol' 6.5"
I just turned the rod out 4 turns, you have to remove the actuator from the turbo to do it, I don't care about my truck looking stock, Its mine and like everything else I own its Brucified
Pillow
Recruit
I like that! Keep Brucifying it works!
And thanks for the adjustment info, I'll tinker some more tomorrow night to cool the PSI down a bit.
racedaymechanic
Active Member
I sell it 50 bucks
Jorge6.5
Well-Known Member
Bruce what are the dimensions of the elbow that you used coming out of the airbox?
racedaymechanic
Active Member
Driving Impressions!!! (keep in mind I am still set at 20 PSI stock out of the box boost)
... Damn, this thing is much faster! Especially at speed, like a 60-70 roll on.
The biggest plus is there is no longer a "barrier" at 65 MPH that the GM-8 had when cruising. I always attributed this as getting over the torque sweet spot, this is not the case. The GM-8 must be hitting its comfortable flow limits at around 2250RPM... I know that sounds crazy, but the only explanation I have. The HX40II just keeps going up to 70! Well that's as fast as I got today anyway
Sustained boost is about 2-3 PSI lower at cruise than with the GM-8. I will have more data tomorrow at a steady 65MPH on the interstate.
Boost spools up very quickly just like with the GM-8. Really no big difference here that I can see... Granted I really had to keep my foot out of the throttle to stay below 15 PSI!!! Once the wastegate gets set properly at 14-15 PSI max this thing is going to be deadly
That said, the HX40II is FAST! Again I could barely get over 1/2 throttle due to fear of overboosting and the Burb still kicked ass!
... Life is not all roses though. The Pyro told the sad story... From what I can tell, the Pyro temps are about the same as with the GM-8. Again, limited seat time, but cruise still set about 600F, take off briskly around 900F, sustained take off to 70MPH about 1100F... In reality though, a hard run to 70 MPH with the GM-8 and Heath GL4 chip would get hotter than 1100F and you would have to back off a little at the end. Maybe I am being too hard, but the temps are a tad better, but nothing to write home about. More to come with more miles.
Overall I like it! The power alone is worth it! But the real bonus I think will be less boost at cruise as well as better breathing at cruise = better efficiency. I can cruise at 70 with ease now where I could not before.
Hmmmm I dont see 1100 at all even towing my 5thwheel up mountains, do you have a 4 inch exhaust and mandrel bent crossover?
racedaymechanic
Active Member
Its a 4 inch 90
Jorge6.5
Well-Known Member
Ok thanks! Do you make a relocation kit for the k47?
Pillow
Recruit
I have a 4" exhaust from Jardaine and a Warpspeed 3" mandrel bend crossover pipe. So breathing shouldn't be an issue.
The issue I think is more with the Heath GL4 chip... Not complaining, but it is set for max power instead of a towing tune like the Heath Max-E-Torque. Not many people run the GL4 that I have seen so it is hard to tell.
We'll see, I have my normal commute tomorrow so I can give an apples to apples run down on temps.
The issue I think is more with the Heath GL4 chip... Not complaining, but it is set for max power instead of a towing tune like the Heath Max-E-Torque. Not many people run the GL4 that I have seen so it is hard to tell.
We'll see, I have my normal commute tomorrow so I can give an apples to apples run down on temps.
NVW
Well-Known Member
Keep in mind one egt gauge may read different from another, also with break in things may improve.
Different chips can make a difference on egt.
Different chips can make a difference on egt.
Pillow
Recruit
EGTs seem to be going down a little.
Cruise at 65MPH 500F and 4 PSI. Effortless in motion, the only drag is wind resistence when pushing 70-75ish.
I think the turbo needs to break in a little bit and it will keep goign down in EGTs.
* Keep in mind that I am still on 20 PSI boost and that the cruise boost number should go down when properly set at 14PSI. *
Cruise at 65MPH 500F and 4 PSI. Effortless in motion, the only drag is wind resistence when pushing 70-75ish.
I think the turbo needs to break in a little bit and it will keep goign down in EGTs.
* Keep in mind that I am still on 20 PSI boost and that the cruise boost number should go down when properly set at 14PSI. *
Jorge6.5
Well-Known Member
I agree, once the turbo is broke in it should spin more freely. Good idea on dropping the boost that should lower some temps. Or maybe you can leave the boost at that and run WMI!! haha
4thesporty
Member
Big A$$ intercooler will help you utilize all that extra fuel you are burning too.