HX40II Turbo Install

[6.2 turbo]

It's not fastened.

 

[mug23]

I haven't tighten things down yet on that picture. It does line up once I cut some pieces off the intake manifold.

 

[Pillow]

Hey Bruce, what was the thread pitch for the extension rod for the mechanical wastegate?

Looks great as always!

Thanks!

 

[mug23]

Well, here's my completed turbo install. I finished it last night at 3am and went to work at 7am, hahaha... I really wanted to complete the install. The truck now sounds like a jet about to take-off...

I couldn't fit my K-47 air back in so I'm going to have make my own turbomaster soon. Anyone have any updates on a good simple design?



Here's my oil drain hose:

 

[4thesporty]

Mug, did you cut and tap your drain for the AN fitting or make a new one? Also, did you not have trouble with your A/C line being in the way with that 4" elbow. There is no way one would fit on mine as that line make is impossible.

Install looks good

 

[mug23]

I purchased a new T3 oil drain flange from a local speed shop that I buy my AN fittings. I end up using AN -12 to fit onto the drain tube on the engine block. This worked out nicely and I like it a lot. Just make sure you wrap the drain hoses just in case if it's touching any exhaust parts.

As for the A/C lines, I carefully bend the lines a bit to get it out of the way. I'm actually using 4" to 3.5" reducer as I had to end up buying a new top post battery. I just need a better way to control the waste gate so I can use my K-47 box again.

Now it's time for the "Buddy" tune to get more POWER...

 

[buddy]

Maybe but the waste gate arm is straight up and down and swings to the rear of the truck to open, you would have to rig up a arm for the waste gate

I think you were thinking of the GM8 when you replied with this, because a GM1/2/3/4/5 all had a wastegate arm just like the HX40, and the actuator stuck out the front of the turbo. The GM8 was different. So this is what I was thinking, since the compressor housing is in the way from being larger, the spring could just sit behind it. The wastegate lever doesnt travel far, it has no room to open with the backplate on the HX40. It just moves like 1/2" back when fully open. Here I also show my GM4 and quick mock up of a DIY mechanical actuator.


The bracket doesnt have to go quite so far back so the existing piece C-clipped to the lever might be reused.

 

[JiFaire]

Its not that hard to find a good spring to use, they dont cost much. I dont see a hoard of people complaining about their homemade actuators.

It's not the cost, it's finding the right spring.. the length of the moment arm changes the tension requirements. Lots of people liked theirs fine until they got a load on or changed altitudes and their boost went stoopid... darn near anything works on the level when you're empty.

Not saying it can't be done, just that it needs to be more precise with a shorter moment arm... darn near need to get out the vice grips on some of the -3s.

 

[buddy]

It's not the cost, it's finding the right spring.. the length of the moment arm changes the tension requirements. Lots of people liked theirs fine until they got a load on or changed altitudes and their boost went stoopid... darn near anything works on the level when you're empty.

With an axial force of a spring the length of the rod isnt going to make a difference, its the angle that would make a differnence, changing the vectors of force on the arm. The arm is the wastegate lever, the shorter it is, the more force is needed, but can't really change that.

With something like the HX40, it currently just pops open at a boost level, and has a poor angle to actually apply the force to move the lever in the clockwise direction. making it perpendicular to the lever will allow less sping force to hold it closed, and may be able to actually get a little better variation on boost control, even with the short movement of the wastegate. The GMx wastegate could open a lot more, had a lot more travel. It needed it because it had so much more backpressure and drive pressure to bypass.

 

[JiFaire]

It isn't the length of the rod that makes a difference, but the moment arm (length of the wastegate arm), and the differnece in both length and angle is significant, especially given the magnitude of the forces involved and the travel distance required of the spring to allow for enough angular travel of the wastegate.

Compare the picture you posted to this one:

 

[buddy]

Yes, I know but we are talking about HX40s, my picture was just to show the difference between a GM8 and older GM turbo, because it seemed like Bruce thought we would need some arm to make the spring tension point vertical like on the GM8.

And theres about 1000 ways to skin a cat.

 

[JiFaire]

True, the HX40 is a very different animal; Bruce is a heck of a craftsman, I'm sure he'll figure it out just fine.

 

[racedaymechanic]

True, the HX40 is a very different animal; Bruce is a heck of a craftsman, I'm sure he'll figure it out just fine.

Thanks, The setup I built seems to mork decent but I think I am going to make one with a longer arm and straight up and down instead of the angled stock mount, I have a fairly stiff spring on there now, it seems abount right with the stock arm, But I need to get something that will work with the stock airbox location

 

[Hoyt572]

So what ever happen to the testing of the ATT Bruce?? or did I miss it in another thread??

 

[great white]

Pretty sure I know how I would go for waste-gate control and it wouldn't involve a spring.....

But, I'll stay out here on the "fringes"....it's nice and quiet for independent thinking out here.



Nice work BTW Bruce.

 

[Burning oil]

I was thinking vac control too.

 

[great white]

I was thinking vac control too.

Yup, that's where I was going.

It's not a popular system around these parts though, soooo....:gnorsi:

No doubt someone will "steal" the idea eventually anyways......

 

[mug23]

You can always go to the external wastea-gate route like Tial Sport like the way I have on my Subaru race car that handles 600+whp with a Garrett GTX-3582R turbo.

The only problem is it's very expensive and requires another exhaust tube on the downpipe connecting this external waste-gate and you can either dump it into the world or routed back in the exhaust. This set up will control the boost very accurate and more efficiently.

 

[buddy]

When your turbo doesnt overspeed so easily it doesnt need quite as precise control. It just makes a good boost for the load you are at. And the movement on most of the HX40s is very limited. The HX40WII with 12-blade turbine is probably on the edge of providing more boost than needed, which is why I recommend trying to get the 10-blade turbine. The larger HX40 or ATT are more suited to not needing much control at all. Obviously cannot control on the nonwastegated, its just matched to make a good boost at a given load. The smaller HX40WII would just provide a little more pep and less smoke at low speeds around town.

I am pro vac on the GM turbo, I like being able to tune it.

 

[DZZ71]

I was wondering the same thing about the testing of the ATT