How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

[MrMarty51]

I believe that the BW kits is the push on types of hoses.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

No parts store in Cheyenne had these damn plugs, we put a bolt in there after numerous attempts to zip tie something on it and it worked, its not leaking excessively anymore, however, it just drops now

Im well aware this is not a permanent solution, are there kits for this or? May as well replace the rest of these hoses or clamps for obvious reasons

If it is a return line, if there is enough length and the hose is broke next to the injector nipple, possible to snip it at the nipple, pull the piece from the nipple and shove the connecting piece over the nipple.
Risk involved, if it splits it could leeeeek worse.
If You can find an open parts store very possible they will have an injector installation kit in stock and them new return connector hoses is in the kit.
Be sure to ask if the hoses are the shove on types or if they have to have the clamps.
Either way, If clamps required, or not, they will be with the kit.
Just a real PIA to get the clamps over the hoses after getting the hoses pushed over the nipples.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Update:

After multiple attempts, we finally were able to come with a solution (to an extent)

We put a bolt in the return line, one of the workers at Oriellys suggested it (former truck driver, old school guy) sure enough it went from gushing fuel from that inlet to a mere drip

(https://photos.app.goo.gl/TgE1MNmQXCoepmdQ9)

Im well aware that this is not a permanent solution, however we are 5 hours from my base so it'll have to do

Headed back to SD now, we'll see how it goes.

EDIT: if anyone knows any kits or anything for this please let me know, I actually want to fix this the right way

 

[MrMarty51]

Here is Leroys return hoses.
These are true push on units.

Leroy Diesel

leroydiesel.com

 

[dbrannon79]

WOW! I haven't been on here in a few days and look at all the excitement I missed!!

in a pinch, go to home depot and get the small orangish color clear tubing I forget what size it is but it's in the plumbing section. it will push on without clamps and work for a while.

iirc that much flow from an injector return is saying too much fuel is bypassing one or more of the injectors. you might need a replacement set. when I looked at the smoking on startup that looked just like an injector had leaked down and flooded one of the cylinders overnight, not enough to cause hydro-lock, but enough to foul it out on warm-up. how cold was it out there? the outside temp has a lot to do with hard starts and GP run time before cranking.

on the oil leak, you need to pull the fan shroud out and inspect everything good. clean it all up and run it without the shroud for a bit (not on the road as it could overheat) and look for any signs of a leak. it might not be the line but the built in oil cooler leaking from an external source like where a weld is or maybe the radiator is under stress in the mounts that could cause a crack over time.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Sir, ill read your comment when I can, a quick update while on the road though.

- As stated before, barely Jerry rigged it together (https://photos.app.goo.gl/4mmEzEtssN2i6VC86) its not leaking as much as before adding the bolt in

- Ever since the old synthetic oil leaked out and we added T4/Conventional instead, it doesn't leak from that spot anymore, made it from Rapid, to Denver and back

- gonna try and get a seal if I can to cover that return line, hopefully autozone has it, or something, i hate how this happened, but im glad I was able to make it back (somehow)

 

[dbrannon79]

Here is the factory style kit off the jungle site. you won't need the gaskets but the hose and plugs are all pre-cut to length.

Amazon.com

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Here is the factory style kit off the jungle site. you won't need the gaskets but the hose and plugs are all pre-cut to length.

Amazon.com

Thank you so much

 

[nycxjeremyy]

WOW! I haven't been on here in a few days and look at all the excitement I missed!!

in a pinch, go to home depot and get the small orangish color clear tubing I forget what size it is but it's in the plumbing section. it will push on without clamps and work for a while.

iirc that much flow from an injector return is saying too much fuel is bypassing one or more of the injectors. you might need a replacement set. when I looked at the smoking on startup that looked just like an injector had leaked down and flooded one of the cylinders overnight, not enough to cause hydro-lock, but enough to foul it out on warm-up. how cold was it out there? the outside temp has a lot to do with hard starts and GP run time before cranking.

on the oil leak, you need to pull the fan shroud out and inspect everything good. clean it all up and run it without the shroud for a bit (not on the road as it could overheat) and look for any signs of a leak. it might not be the line but the built in oil cooler leaking from an external source like where a weld is or maybe the radiator is under stress in the mounts that could cause a crack over time.

Finally made it back, didnt leak as much as I stated, but its great to let it sit overnight as I figure this out

One of the injectors was actually loose, kept gushing diesel out like a waterfall, we got a wrench and tightened it, which we thought would fix the issue, however, thats when realized that the return line was the issue aswell (dont know how that area is circled got loose, but, we got it tight again)

We tried to use zip ties with a vacuum seal and that did not work, then an old head from the autoparts store suggested the bolt idea. It actually worked, and got me home (somehow)

Gonna try and source a return line seal tomorrow, I cant have that bolt on forever, not do i want it there, but im just glad I was able to make it back.

I hope i dont need injectors, the motor worked, did its job well in Denver (going to and back) just surprised this happened, wonder what triggered it to fail as it did.

Thay being said, if i truly do need injectors, which set do you recommend? I see a variety of rebuilt ones/OEM ones online

 

[MrMarty51]

Knowing now what I didnt know back then.
Take Your injectors to a reputable diesel shop thats set up and has shims.
Have the shop, or yourself, check the injectors and make sure the nozzles and pintle still makes a good spray pattern, check them for leak down, chatter and pop pressure.
Adjust them all so that they pop about 1900 PSI.
Then just run Your old injectors.

 

[MrMarty51]

I think 1900 should be a good number for pop pressure.

 

[Will L.]

Do we still not have anyone balancing injectors listed here? @Rockabillyrat are you up & running yet?

BE LEARY OF MOST INJECTORS ONLINE. Cheap Chinese ones die really short lives. Under just the wrong conditions a bad injector can ruin a piston.
The ones Leroy sells are good, but they are mass produced so they won’t be balanced.
A few guys here hopefully recommend good shops you can send them to and have the pop pressure reset so that all 8 pop within 25 psi of each other.
What this does is get the same amount of fuel to all 8 cylinders with the same level of fuel misting. A truck will run without doing this but doing it really helps fuel efficiency, power, etc.

100,000 miles is a good time to rebuild/ replace injectors.
How far down the rabbit hole you go is your decision- me, I like comparing US, chinese & Australian rabbits …

Marty said 1900 is a good pressure- that seems really low to me but with this new fuel and his engine/turbo combo anything is possible.
We did a bunch of testing in the fleet and found 2500 range much better. But this was back when we had real diesel fuel not ULSD blended with ethonal
GM specs originally (afaik never change for the new 6.5 hmmwvs being made)
From memory (possibly wrong) Non turbo was 1800 and turbo was 2250.

Each engine/ turbo combo can run better/ worse with different pop pressure. Think of it like tuning a carburetor- a good one will make it run but fine tuning improves both power and mpg. This becomes a good diy project for guys who like to tinker test & tune. It goes like this:
Buy two sets of new nozzles and get an old set of injectors from a junkyard— (dang it, you were just at the junkyard with a 6.2, is it around still?)
Or buy two sets of injectors from Leroy. MAKE SURE TO TELL HIM 6.2 not 6.5 because there is a tiny difference in body length.

Buy a pop tester & a replacement gauge thats more accurately read - make top pressure 3,000 psi- a gauge thats read 10,000 psi makes it impossible to have small increments. Make sure to see the plus/minus variable percentage on the gauge itself because that alone can make the testing invalid to being this accurate.
Make a spreadsheet on computer or paper. Start by balancing a set at one point- according to Marty 1900 call them set A & install them.
Build the second set at 2000 called set B.

Run set A, record 0-60 & mpg, note any smoking and noise properties. Pick a specific route to drive for the mpg test. Begin at a fuel station topping off the tank. Difference in routes will skew the test. A combo of city & hiway you normally drive is best.
Then swap to set B, repeating the procedure. While driving on set B, set A can be rebuilt up 200 psi.
So you get this happening over time.
A=1900
B=2000
A=2100
B=2200
A=2300
B=2400
A=2500

You will create a Bell curve of improvements. Imagine if the two best pressures are between 2300 & 2400.
So next do one at 2350 & chart it. This would tell you whether 2325 or 2375 should be best. So that becomes your last test. Now set the other set to that pressure. After setting it to that pressure- get a bottle of non detergent 10 to 30 weight oil and run through the second set, and a light oiling of them onnthe outside with it also. Then store them in a sealed container that won’t break down over time. The non detergent oil will flush and preserve the injectors & tool from deterioration.
And you are good for the next 200,000 miles of the truck.

Some guys spent a week driving home to work for 5 days then swap on the weekend. Other guys did a new set every other day beginning by swapping injectors in the morning. Way back when, one guy took a week vacation and did his all with only one set of injectors. The 1900 Marty said is the lowest I heard anyone with a turbo liking. Some ran as high as 3100. There are marine injectors that allow more fuel per event so that definitely changes things if running them.

When I was playing drag truck- I just had a set at every 25 psi interval because a different turbo, different timing, etc and a different pop pressure could alter performance. A feller can really get into the weeds with doing this (that how I am if you can’t tell, so maybe a more sane approach is better suited for many).

A guy can also do it all with just one set. But I don’t recommend that if this is your only transportation. If really tight on money- buying the shim kits and pressure tester with a high end gauge means it takes years to recover the cost of it all in mpg.

With most guys running a ds4 and having different tunes available it really throws changes in it, and when using a db2 like you and I have - how much fuel it puts out is all over the place from one pump to the next so we can be more dramatic changes than even the ds4 guys with their different tunes.
So this is why it isn’t a case that person X did the testing once and thats idewl for everyone.

But having them all balanced at one setting is way better than some at 2050 some at 2450 and a few in the middle. Which is what brand new in spec can get you.
The cheap ones from amazon can get you ones that will make the truck not even start in a couple months.

 

[Rockabillyrat]

Do we still not have anyone balancing injectors listed here? @Rockabillyrat are you up & running yet?

BE LEARY OF MOST INJECTORS ONLINE. Cheap Chinese ones die really short lives. Under just the wrong conditions a bad injector can ruin a piston.
The ones Leroy sells are good, but they are mass produced so they won’t be balanced.
A few guys here hopefully recommend good shops you can send them to and have the pop pressure reset so that all 8 pop within 25 psi of each other.
What this does is get the same amount of fuel to all 8 cylinders with the same level of fuel misting. A truck will run without doing this but doing it really helps fuel efficiency, power, etc.

100,000 miles is a good time to rebuild/ replace injectors.
How far down the rabbit hole you go is your decision- me, I like comparing US, chinese & Australian rabbits …

Marty said 1900 is a good pressure- that seems really low to me but with this new fuel and his engine/turbo combo anything is possible.
We did a bunch of testing in the fleet and found 2500 range much better. But this was back when we had real diesel fuel not ULSD blended with ethonal
GM specs originally (afaik never change for the new 6.5 hmmwvs being made)
From memory (possibly wrong) Non turbo was 1800 and turbo was 2250.

Each engine/ turbo combo can run better/ worse with different pop pressure. Think of it like tuning a carburetor- a good one will make it run but fine tuning improves both power and mpg. This becomes a good diy project for guys who like to tinker test & tune. It goes like this:
Buy two sets of new nozzles and get an old set of injectors from a junkyard— (dang it, you were just at the junkyard with a 6.2, is it around still?)
Or buy two sets of injectors from Leroy. MAKE SURE TO TELL HIM 6.2 not 6.5 because there is a tiny difference in body length.

Buy a pop tester & a replacement gauge thats more accurately read - make top pressure 3,000 psi- a gauge thats read 10,000 psi makes it impossible to have small increments. Make sure to see the plus/minus variable percentage on the gauge itself because that alone can make the testing invalid to being this accurate.
Make a spreadsheet on computer or paper. Start by balancing a set at one point- according to Marty 1900 call them set A & install them.
Build the second set at 2000 called set B.

Run set A, record 0-60 & mpg, note any smoking and noise properties. Pick a specific route to drive for the mpg test. Begin at a fuel station topping off the tank. Difference in routes will skew the test. A combo of city & hiway you normally drive is best.
Then swap to set B, repeating the procedure. While driving on set B, set A can be rebuilt up 200 psi.
So you get this happening over time.
A=1900
B=2000
A=2100
B=2200
A=2300
B=2400
A=2500

You will create a Bell curve of improvements. Imagine if the two best pressures are between 2300 & 2400.
So next do one at 2350 & chart it. This would tell you whether 2325 or 2375 should be best. So that becomes your last test. Now set the other set to that pressure. After setting it to that pressure- get a bottle of non detergent 10 to 30 weight oil and run through the second set, and a light oiling of them onnthe outside with it also. Then store them in a sealed container that won’t break down over time. The non detergent oil will flush and preserve the injectors & tool from deterioration.
And you are good for the next 200,000 miles of the truck.

Some guys spent a week driving home to work for 5 days then swap on the weekend. Other guys did a new set every other day beginning by swapping injectors in the morning. Way back when, one guy took a week vacation and did his all with only one set of injectors. The 1900 Marty said is the lowest I heard anyone with a turbo liking. Some ran as high as 3100. There are marine injectors that allow more fuel per event so that definitely changes things if running them.

When I was playing drag truck- I just had a set at every 25 psi interval because a different turbo, different timing, etc and a different pop pressure could alter performance. A feller can really get into the weeds with doing this (that how I am if you can’t tell, so maybe a more sane approach is better suited for many).

A guy can also do it all with just one set. But I don’t recommend that if this is your only transportation. If really tight on money- buying the shim kits and pressure tester with a high end gauge means it takes years to recover the cost of it all in mpg.

With most guys running a ds4 and having different tunes available it really throws changes in it, and when using a db2 like you and I have - how much fuel it puts out is all over the place from one pump to the next so we can be more dramatic changes than even the ds4 guys with their different tunes.
So this is why it isn’t a case that person X did the testing once and thats idewl for everyone.

But having them all balanced at one setting is way better than some at 2050 some at 2450 and a few in the middle. Which is what brand new in spec can get you.
The cheap ones from amazon can get you ones that will make the truck not even start in a couple months.

I can balance them no problem. If anyone needs them done just send me a message.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Well, the leaks gone, doesn't leak anymore

Found the leak that was talking about also

Lower oil cooler line, right where it is circled at, i consider it a damn miracle it hasn't burst, but its leaking alright

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Good news, I think.

Leaks gone! I suppose all it needed was a bit more tightening. Got a wrench in there and turned the fitting as much as I could without over tightening it, seemed as if I could have turned more, however, I stopped, proceeded to wash the entirety of it, and as of now have observed no leaks from that spot. Time will tell.

I sprayed the entirety of the engine bay with tri gloss (ran out of oven cleaner ) and then sprayed it down (did NOT use a high pressure setting, moreso akin to a garden hose)



I think it worked too well as now the water temp guage doesn't appear to be working, then again, didnt run it long enough before or after the wash, so again, time will tell, however, I hope it does work as I really dont want to tear into that.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Does anyone know where the temp sending unit sensor for the water temp guage is located? 100% that guage is no longer working, I assume I more than likely knocked something out when spraying down there


Edit: nvm found it.

Update: The front oil leak is 100% gone, tightening the fittings actually did it, nownIts back to leaking from the usual spots....

 

[nycxjeremyy]

I dont know if its my mind playing tricks on me, but I could have sworn I heard it rev up a little while at the stop light, haven't heard it do it again since, hopefully its not air intrusion again.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

OH COME ON

New video · Wednesday, May 28 ð¬

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[MrMarty51]

OH COME ON

New video · Wednesday, May 28 ð¬

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

You got the clear hose on the return pipe, off the injection pump ?

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Ill have to get another roll

Also, notice how it starts? You'd think there's no issue, its not like the previous time where I'd have to fight it to start it, this starts to easy.

Its only after I put it in gear (forward, reverse) it'll start doing that, but even then, its very minimal compared to what it used to do

New video · Thursday, May 29 ð¬

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl