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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

If the radiator has a transmission or oil cooler built into it, they can fail inside the radiator and the atf & oil pressures both exceed radiator pressure and will pump oil into the coolant. Open & inspect coolant for contamination.
Both oils are lighter in weight than water so will float on top of the water/coolant.

You should have both an engine cooler and a transmission oil cooler.
Sometimes one will be built into the radiator.
 
Update:

It actually stopped leaking from there, and no, it is not low on oil, we've been keeping a close eye on the levels (both oil and transmission) we actually made it to Denver.

It does NOT like the higher elevation at all though, it mean this thing rolls coal in traffic trying to get up to 25 MPH now.

Other than that though, it actually did well, we are gonna drain the oil and put in T4 conventional since its still running the synthetic oil.

It stayed at 200 after 3 hours of continuous driving +85 MPH.
20250523_192958.jpg
 
Keep a close eye on engine oil level.

Normally a sudden start of smoking, you look for loss of turbo boost somewhere like wastegate not working, the hose from turbo to intake leaking out air, etc.

Going up in elevation dramatically, it’s normal to see some loss of power simply because it is getting less oxygen so guys in higher elevation have the manual wastegate adjusted a little tighter to help out.

But to smoke at idle suddenly, that is not normal, it smell the smoke. The odor will tell you what it is. Oil, fuel, or antifreeze.

200° for a long time is no problem- so long as that gauge is accurate and you were 100% full of coolant. Some temp sensors will maintain last level if coolant is lost.
What is your normal temperature? Are you using the factory gauge or a high quality aftermarket one?
 
Remove the link rod from the waste gate lever that attached to the turbo waste gate.
Check to make sure that lever freely moves.
I worked on one smoking 6.5 that the link rod had seized on the wastegate lever and the waste gate could no longer open nor close.
 
Will L. said:
Keep a close eye on engine oil level.

Normally a sudden start of smoking, you look for loss of turbo boost somewhere like wastegate not working, the hose from turbo to intake leaking out air, etc.

Going up in elevation dramatically, it’s normal to see some loss of power simply because it is getting less oxygen so guys in higher elevation have the manual wastegate adjusted a little tighter to help out.

But to smoke at idle suddenly, that is not normal, it smell the smoke. The odor will tell you what it is. Oil, fuel, or antifreeze.

200° for a long time is no problem- so long as that gauge is accurate and you were 100% full of coolant. Some temp sensors will maintain last level if coolant is lost.
What is your normal temperature? Are you using the factory gauge or a high quality aftermarket one?
Click to expand...
1. Will do, we let it sit overnight so we'll inspect all fluid levels as they're "true cold"

2. That smoke smells like pure exhaust ngl, but when I crank it up for the first time ill send a video and since im with a mechanical friend of mine up here getting parts for his bullnose ill get his opinion on smell aswell, that smoke on startup yesterday after we ate at a restaurant and let it sit for a while was white/grey though, on the highway id be black.

3. Temp guage works, it moves up and down (if i let go of the throttle, coast, accelerate, etc) and every since the higher elevation 190/195 is now the norm, back in SD the guage even at highway speeds wouldn't go past 190 and stay at the 185 mark. Its factory
 
MrMarty51 said:
Return line ?
Sometimes the injectir halves will work loose from one another and begin leeeeking between the two halves.
Click to expand...
Looks like it, no idea now, we're 5 hours away from my installation now, is there a way to cap it off or? Just barely touching it speaks diesel everywhere

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New video · Sunday, May 25 ð¬

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If it is a return line, if there is enough length and the hose is broke next to the injector nipple, possible to snip it at the nipple, pull the piece from the nipple and shove the connecting piece over the nipple.
Risk involved, if it splits it could leeeeek worse.
If You can find an open parts store very possible they will have an injector installation kit in stock and them new return connector hoses is in the kit.
Be sure to ask if the hoses are the shove on types or if they have to have the clamps.
Either way, If clamps required, or not, they will be with the kit.
Just a real PIA to get the clamps over the hoses after getting the hoses pushed over the nipples.
 
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