nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Im headed to Colorado last second this weekend, what's something I should do immediately, and what else should I look for?
Last edited:
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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles
- Thread starter nycxjeremyy
- Start date
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- 6.2 maintenance
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
which side of the frame is it leaking? driver or passenger. what I noticed in your other photos was that the oil cooler lines have what looks like a compression crimped to the hoses and compression on the aluminum lines. on the other end (frame) looks like the original crimps can't tell if they have compression on them but they were wet in the photo you posted.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Yeah, them hoses, if original equipment, should get gone and new ones attached.
Tough to find OE equipment for such an old truck.
A good hydraulics shop should have high temp hydraulic hose that would handle the load just fine, and still connect to Your cooler and enjun.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
From the looks of the compression fittings on the end of the rubber hoses, I would assume the rubber has been replaced at one time or they were just cut on the one end to pull the engine out for work. I don't trust compression fittings. a few years ago I had a hydraulic hose made with compression ends for a power steering hose on the dodge. it leaks enough to coat everything around it with oil film and dirt.
with aluminum oil lines, I would recommend having that hose re-made but with JIC male fittings and then get a set of flare nuts for the aluminum tube where you can use a flaring tool and make the connections that way, not worry about that area leaking. but clean up both ends and drive while watching it to see if it's the compression leaking or the crimp on the rubber that's leaking.
with aluminum oil lines, I would recommend having that hose re-made but with JIC male fittings and then get a set of flare nuts for the aluminum tube where you can use a flaring tool and make the connections that way, not worry about that area leaking. but clean up both ends and drive while watching it to see if it's the compression leaking or the crimp on the rubber that's leaking.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Its Pax side, id say its also wet due to the rain we've been getting (and of course, I just had to drive over roads that have an inch of rain on them at a high enough speed to kick up the water)
im currently in a Temp assignment to ND (GOV T/T) the 6.2 is just sitting there so ill send photos of that end and underneath when I return
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Safe travels
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Thank you sir
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
A bit off topic but one of the boys got me this since he used it in his motor and he said it ran/sounded smoother, thoughts on this?
www.archoil.com
AR9100 Oil Additive
Protect your engine with AR9100 Oil Additive. Eliminate injector issues, reduce wear, and extend engine life. Buy now for superior protection and improved performance.
www.archoil.com
Will L.
Well-Known Member
No. Buy better oil but don’t play chemist yourself. Often people make problems chemically that weren’t there before.
Very few oil additions have been third party tested. One of the best is for simple cylinder wall wear correction that didn’t have negative side affects for most engines to bring back compression is called Restore. But it doesn’t do any good in an engine in the first 100,000 miles unless it was ran without an air filter and had abnormal early wear from it.
Because our fuel doesn’t have the sulfur it used to, you should be adding a lubricant to the fuel- CAREFUL- not things that are a water emulsifier.
Stanadyne makes a good one, certain two stroke oil is good, since you have a db2 ATF works great. There is a brand I can’t think of the name right now that does exceptional- One of the guys might mention here to make up for my forgetfulness.
Stay the hell away from Diesel911 & Mystery Marvel oil. They do more damage than good for this engine. Only exception is the 911 only if you have gelled your fuel and need to use it- but drain off and discard that fuel asap.
Very few oil additions have been third party tested. One of the best is for simple cylinder wall wear correction that didn’t have negative side affects for most engines to bring back compression is called Restore. But it doesn’t do any good in an engine in the first 100,000 miles unless it was ran without an air filter and had abnormal early wear from it.
Because our fuel doesn’t have the sulfur it used to, you should be adding a lubricant to the fuel- CAREFUL- not things that are a water emulsifier.
Stanadyne makes a good one, certain two stroke oil is good, since you have a db2 ATF works great. There is a brand I can’t think of the name right now that does exceptional- One of the guys might mention here to make up for my forgetfulness.
Stay the hell away from Diesel911 & Mystery Marvel oil. They do more damage than good for this engine. Only exception is the 911 only if you have gelled your fuel and need to use it- but drain off and discard that fuel asap.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Looks like it's nothing but zddp and moly mixed together. I would send a virgin sample to an oil analysis lab to see what's in it!
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Copy sir, also I use Stanadyne lubricant per every full up, been doing good so far
jrsavoie
Recruit
If you have soy diesel in your area. You should be good for additional lube.
As far as I've ever heard Arch oil is a good product.
If I had some here, I'd run it.
But then I used to run some Marvel.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
A lot of us used to run Marvel- me included. It wasn’t until the actual testing was done that reality became known from advertising & speculation.
Zddp up to 1800ppm can be helpful. Over 2200ppm it starts doing damage. But depending what other chemicals are in the oil being used besides the zddp.
Once there is 400ppm and it mixes with other things like moly and phosphorus- there is almost zero benefits between 400 to 1800. And as the zddp goes up it nullifies things like useable life of the oil. So tiny amounts of performance gain at the sacrifice of oil change intervals.
So if you want the tiny benefit difference of high zddp and don’t mind changing oil every 1,000 miles- ok. I used to do 500 mile oil changes on my alcohol 427cid sbc. Partly because the alcohol washed out the oil, but mainly because my valve train was on the extreme end. So what is it 99.9% of guys run high zddp for? Lifters and camshaft lobes that wear out in 50,000 miles or less. Thats the way it is for high performance flat tapper lifters. It coats the heck out of the cam lobes to help with the lifters spinning like a top on the cam, so yup good for that.
Now, who here (or anywhere) besides me has ever ran flat tappet lifters on a 6.2/6.5? My bet is not two others. What happens when high zddp is ran on roller hydraulic lifters?
It sure doesn’t help them stay pumped up well for a long life. It builds up in the lifter cylinder and on the lifter piston. It causes slower reaction of the piston like too tight of clearance. This makes them pump up slow in the cold mornings and give less when the quick shock load occurs.
It doesn’t help the triple metal bearings on our cam, crank & rods. So a huge push for zddp gains in a 6.5 sounds neat until you start learning details.
Really good base numbers in the oil is critical to dealing with massive gobs of carbon floating around in the oil. I mean, in gasoline engines, especially race engines, they have almost none. But in a 6.2/6.5? HAHAHA. Measure it by the shovel full.
I spent years reading and asking oil engineers, that for about 5 years I worked almost daily with, details looking for ways to get the most from oil. Both best engine protection for the 6.5 and for not doing oil changes every other month.
I’m telling yall- buy amazing oil. Wanna spend money and do more- clean the heck out of it. My current build will get either a Frantz bypass or better yet a remote centrifuge that I hook up when parked to remind as much soot as possible.
Zddp up to 1800ppm can be helpful. Over 2200ppm it starts doing damage. But depending what other chemicals are in the oil being used besides the zddp.
Once there is 400ppm and it mixes with other things like moly and phosphorus- there is almost zero benefits between 400 to 1800. And as the zddp goes up it nullifies things like useable life of the oil. So tiny amounts of performance gain at the sacrifice of oil change intervals.
So if you want the tiny benefit difference of high zddp and don’t mind changing oil every 1,000 miles- ok. I used to do 500 mile oil changes on my alcohol 427cid sbc. Partly because the alcohol washed out the oil, but mainly because my valve train was on the extreme end. So what is it 99.9% of guys run high zddp for? Lifters and camshaft lobes that wear out in 50,000 miles or less. Thats the way it is for high performance flat tapper lifters. It coats the heck out of the cam lobes to help with the lifters spinning like a top on the cam, so yup good for that.
Now, who here (or anywhere) besides me has ever ran flat tappet lifters on a 6.2/6.5? My bet is not two others. What happens when high zddp is ran on roller hydraulic lifters?
It sure doesn’t help them stay pumped up well for a long life. It builds up in the lifter cylinder and on the lifter piston. It causes slower reaction of the piston like too tight of clearance. This makes them pump up slow in the cold mornings and give less when the quick shock load occurs.
It doesn’t help the triple metal bearings on our cam, crank & rods. So a huge push for zddp gains in a 6.5 sounds neat until you start learning details.
Really good base numbers in the oil is critical to dealing with massive gobs of carbon floating around in the oil. I mean, in gasoline engines, especially race engines, they have almost none. But in a 6.2/6.5? HAHAHA. Measure it by the shovel full.
I spent years reading and asking oil engineers, that for about 5 years I worked almost daily with, details looking for ways to get the most from oil. Both best engine protection for the 6.5 and for not doing oil changes every other month.
I’m telling yall- buy amazing oil. Wanna spend money and do more- clean the heck out of it. My current build will get either a Frantz bypass or better yet a remote centrifuge that I hook up when parked to remind as much soot as possible.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Oh yeah- look into what happens with using engine oil flushes that remove too much at once. Thats the effect you get from really high carbon counts and really high moly. The moly absorbs the carbon and becomes grease like.
Getting some is ok, getting the right amount is great. Getting just a little bit to much can smoke your bearings. So in playing chemist- play well or don’t play.
Getting some is ok, getting the right amount is great. Getting just a little bit to much can smoke your bearings. So in playing chemist- play well or don’t play.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Ok, last kick on a dead horse. One of the guys sent me this link & said
“He sounds like what you’re saying.”
No- this guy is a pro, I’m a mechanic that learned from guys like him. He did the oil stuff for his dad’s race team (Joe Gibbs) and now works for Total Seal who is the best ring manufacturer anywhere (not just a cool option that can be used on our antique engines).
Anyway the guy who sent this to me asked about me saying zddp (zinc) can build up in places but this guy says it’s corrosive. Yes to both. Too much collects on the polished metal surface and is acidic. It bonds by being ever so slightly corrosive- think of Marty’s cat’s claws as it climbs the curtains. The claws dig in and help it go up. The acidic properties let it dig into the smooth finished surface to attach to the metal. But too many claws will damage the material. Now you have a rougher surface, where more of the zinc can attach to it. This raises the acidity at a more concentrated area which is now more claws in the curtain. So it becomes a viscous cycle that gets worse and worse. Eventually it is so much zinc that you have pushed away the base oil from that tiny area. So trying to lube it with this liquid zinc (zinc is a metal) and it goes really bad.
Many companies like royal Purple, Mobile1, Tribodyne work seriously hard to get the exact best percentage of everything for individual types of engines. If it was as simple as add 10% item X, ya gotta figure the guys getting paid $200,000 a year have tried it, maybe?
“He sounds like what you’re saying.”
No- this guy is a pro, I’m a mechanic that learned from guys like him. He did the oil stuff for his dad’s race team (Joe Gibbs) and now works for Total Seal who is the best ring manufacturer anywhere (not just a cool option that can be used on our antique engines).
Anyway the guy who sent this to me asked about me saying zddp (zinc) can build up in places but this guy says it’s corrosive. Yes to both. Too much collects on the polished metal surface and is acidic. It bonds by being ever so slightly corrosive- think of Marty’s cat’s claws as it climbs the curtains. The claws dig in and help it go up. The acidic properties let it dig into the smooth finished surface to attach to the metal. But too many claws will damage the material. Now you have a rougher surface, where more of the zinc can attach to it. This raises the acidity at a more concentrated area which is now more claws in the curtain. So it becomes a viscous cycle that gets worse and worse. Eventually it is so much zinc that you have pushed away the base oil from that tiny area. So trying to lube it with this liquid zinc (zinc is a metal) and it goes really bad.
Many companies like royal Purple, Mobile1, Tribodyne work seriously hard to get the exact best percentage of everything for individual types of engines. If it was as simple as add 10% item X, ya gotta figure the guys getting paid $200,000 a year have tried it, maybe?