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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

Will L. said:
It’s not regular wire. It is fuseable link.
If you can shorten it up & crimp on a new end, do that. Otherwise you’ll be spending more money than was in the game plan.

Cable ties to hold them out of the way incase they do pop off, and the heat sheilds are the way to go.
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Ill try that

Where could I possibly find a similar link/cable though, should that not work? I assume autozone?
 
dbrannon79 said:
I couldn't tell in your video, but if it's that what looks like a rusty sensor next to the GP. that is your coolant temp sensor for the gauge. is that still working?
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The coolant sensor isn't there actually, its on the driver side of the radiator, it's a small wire with a fitting that I never could figure out how to put in the new radiator, so it just sits there.

Ill look more in there when I can
 
dbrannon79 said:
If that's the #8 gp, it should be fairly easy to get at with the inner fender removed. just be careful removing the GP from the head if it's been in there any length of time. unthread and pull straight out, don't bend or twist if it gets into a bind. last thing you want is a broken gp tip in the cylinder.

go back with the delco 60g's bosch are known for the connector tabs breaking off from what I've read online, and delco 60g's are the only ones that won't destroy your engine upon failure.
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Only buy the ACDELCO 60G glove plugs from a known vendor.

I have a friend that cussed 60G glow plugs - I really believe he got some counterfeit.

I used to buy them at Autozone.

I don't know who sells ACDELCO 60G glow plugs now
 
nycxjeremyy said:
Ill try that

Where could I possibly find a similar link/cable though, should that not work? I assume autozone?
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Do a continuity test back to the glow plug controller.

I think somebody, maybe @Glagulator posted the type of wire and connector needed not terribly long ago.
I'm old, so that means in the last 4 years.

There are good glow plug wire kits to be bought
Depends on your budget and if you want to go to the extra work
 
I always thought the wires going to each GP were standard wires with a high temp insulation and the fuse link was at teh GP controller where all 4 wires joined together into one about 6" from the GP controller. there are two of them with 4 wires each, one for each side of the engine.
 
nycxjeremyy said:
Guys, I lowkey messed up

Which hose goes to which port? My dumbass removed botb hoses without marking which end goes to which (from block end to radiator end) which is the correct flow pattern?View attachment 95306
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if the fitting sizes are the same for both, I really don't think it matters which direction the flow is through the oil cooler. are you installing a new cooler or re-using your existing one?

others will chime in soon to say the correct flow.
 
nycxjeremyy said:
View attachment 95307Air Filter gasket on the top of the intake went out, anyone know what are the measurements for it? Im trying to find a new one
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are you planning to make your own gasket? if you can remove the two studs from the intake, lay a piece of printer paper over the opening and run your finger pressing on the edges firmly to create impressions in the paper. then pull the paper and cut it out using a razor knife to make you a template. draw it out tracing the template on some gasket material and cut you a new gasket. I personally would use a light amount of gasket sealant (NOT SILICONE) on one side, intake or filter head side so it will stay in place and you can still remove the filter head and not harm the gasket.
 
End results/update:

New lines and angled fittings have been added in! I actually able to use the factory line brackets to hold the new ones in, which was great, as it keeps them in place.

20250809_145940.jpg20250809_191751.jpg
I was able to get a new air cleaner gasket from Oriellys so thankfully the gasket situation was fixed aswell, since replacing it, I haven't noticed any oil coming from the intake.

I also replaced the coolant overcome reservoir aswell, so now it has a more "factory" look to it, which I'm glad about as the one that came with the vehicle wasnt even from GM to begin with. Making the engine bay look alot cleaner.


20250810_185815.jpg

I realized when cleaning the engine bay that the turbo straps have begun to become undone, looks like ill have to find a replacement for them soon, any suggestions would be nice.

20250810_133738.jpg

Not 6.2 related, but i actually finally got around to replacing the tailgate window seals, plus the rear window motor. The seals..... desperately needed to be done, the only downside (and this occured with the front windows aswell) is that it now struggles to open and close, other than that though, its nice to finally have my vehicle fully sealed

20250810_131026.jpg20250810_132028.jpg

Haven't noticed any leaks or anything from that region that was done, will keep an eye on it, its doing well for now

20250810_162422.jpg
 
your getting oil in the intake? how much blow by does the engine have? if none, then you might possible have turbo seals going south which could be bad for the engine! if it's blow by, look into adding a provent 200 oil catch can. my 93 puffs blow by like a locomotive and blow oil out as well. I had to add an oil catch can to help it. what it collects I just pour back into the engine!!
 
dbrannon79 said:
your getting oil in the intake? how much blow by does the engine have? if none, then you might possible have turbo seals going south which could be bad for the engine! if it's blow by, look into adding a provent 200 oil catch can. my 93 puffs blow by like a locomotive and blow oil out as well. I had to add an oil catch can to help it. what it collects I just pour back into the engine!!
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The blowby is fine, I put the oil cap on it and it doesnt move at all, making this all the more strange
 
did you spill oil or something on the manifolds causing the smoke? Yes Ak is right, pull the tube that comes from the CDR into your air intake and cap it off. then do the blow by test. when you pull off the tube if there is oil in it then that is how the oil is getting into the intake. just a tip, remove the oil fill cap before plugging off the CDR. if you have excessive blow by, and no where for it to go it can blow seals or gaskets out with it running.
 
I am curious how your setup is with the type of turbo you have and how the CDR tubing is plumbed up. most have the tube from the CDR going right into the intake just past the air filter and before the turbo.

side note, if there is not much blow by but oil is getting pulled into the intake from the CDR, your CDR might be bad which allows your turbo to suck oil from the crankcase when under load. anyhow, it's always good to install an oil catch can between the CDR and the intake using the 1 inch hose.
 
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