• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Have 6.5 turbo diesel engine want to replace it

there is some blow by, but its not as bad as some of the videos i seen on youtube, ill make a video tomorrow and post it. got off the phone with my buddy he was a mechanic in the army when i was in, asked him if he knew when any military bases were gonna be having auctions and he asked why. i told him i might need a new engine, he has a freshly rebuilt 6.5 still in crate with dyno and compression papers. said he would sell me the engine for 150.00 to just get it out of his garage... :D :D :D
 
For $150 you should get that engine even if you dont need it yet.

Check out the wiring to the IP like Warwagon said to. Too advanced could also be the cause of white smoke when the whole engine and exhaust is cold. For the same reasons pissing injectors could cause the same. Both clearing up when it warms up. Compression check is supposed to be close to 400psi per cylinder, but with the age, and condition of the starter probably be closer to 300. As long as they are all similar it should be OK. Cranking RPMs plays a big factor in the compression value measured.

You'll have to time it when its warm and the cold advance not engages (make sure its not), you can do it by ear then, or I imagine there is an actual procedure using a sensor around the injection line, some crystal method.
 
$150! Buy it, swap it in and then play around with your 400k plant to get all the learning you want at a pace you can relax with. I know you aren't in a panick so by relax I mean to be able to take a little extra time with it. Rebuild it if you want or just take the pieces parts when you're done and take up sculpting as another hobby or scrap it all together.
 
Stick with it, at least you're seeing results. It's amazing how these old engines seem like they're dead, then with some advice and hands-on, they spring back. I hope it's still a good mill. Hate to see them expire without a second chance.

X2 on the spare 6.5.. Buy it if at all possible.
 
ooo im definatlly going to buy the engine cant pass up that price. but once i determine if mine needs to be replace if it does i will pull it and rebuild it might get me a car thats a roller and drop it in :D
 
ooo im definatlly going to buy the engine cant pass up that price. but once i determine if mine needs to be replace if it does i will pull it and rebuild it might get me a car thats a roller and drop it in :D

If going that route be sure to check out threads by member Rafedail1 he stuffed a 6.5 into a Camaro and had a lot of fun with that.
 
its gonna be more for racing but when i get my liscense back im going to be doing over the road hauls, moving trucks state to state. im not trying to insult the 6.5, its just i have had one problem after another. what i really want to do is build a engine so i know whats in that engine. first my trans starts bucking, then t stat goes out, then fuel like breaks, then radiator blows, then power steering pump starts leaking. i just keep on having one problem after another. why is it when one thing breaks it starts going down hill from there. went and got the book on my truck today, reading up on everything about the engine slowly learning

EDIT: Didn't realize the date of the original post nor the amount of pages of this thread...sounds like you've changed your mind so my post may not make a bunch of sense.

We've all been there man, sometimes that's just what happens with a vehicle. Just finished running the gauntlet on my 2500HD over the last year.

First off the rear axle was basically ruined, so i bought a used axle and had it shipped to me ($1200), then the fuel pump died shortly after, then when all that was sorted out i had the starter die. Just 3 days ago i finally finished swapping out the dead t-case and transmission for a low mileage 4L80E and manual t-case, which required cutting a small hole in the floor for the shifter and a bunch of rewiring (differences between 2002 and 2005 harnesses).

So after all that i end up with a stock truck again, wish i could have spent that money making it into a badass but i end up at square one. During all this (since the summer) my K5 w/6.2L had a trans cooler line bust, replaced the glowplugs,had a dead alternator and i had a bit of trouble with battery cables which lead to a few mornings i required a boost to start (very cold arctic temps didn't help either). Other than that it's been flawless.
 
yes $150.00 it was not a typo, its a buddy of mine that i was in the army with my whole i was enlisted
 
well if your looking for one i can make some phone calls, and see what i can do, or if if i need space or it becomes a eye sore ill let ya know
 
this guy wont change his mind he is like a brother, when we were in the army we went to the same schools and everything even were room mates in both tours to iraq
 
Looking back on what I have done to my 1993... Well it has been a black hole for cash.

Regardless, after you check (and repair if needed) the cold advance and glow plug system you will be left with the fuel system.

This fuel system will include:
a Lift pump pressure test. You use the water drain port and hook up a pressure gauge.
Fuel filter heater test - check for resistance on the heater wires on the fuel filter connector. (The side connector is the water in fuel sensor.)
Air test. Put a clear 1/4" line for test purpose only on the return line from the injection pump. It is the 1/4" line coming out of the top of the IP. Run the engine and look for bubbles. Even small ones are BAD! Cycle the cold advance by shorting the connector to check for air at both fuel flow rates. Let sit overnight and have a friend crank it over while watching for air.

No air?
You are down to injectors or an IP that is worn out.

For what it is worth these engines run a lot smoother with a fresh set of injectors in them. If you don't know their mileage change them. I have a thread on the meltdown from a worn out injector that took the engine with it. But I bought it salvage value that way...
 
I was a 13 delta Field Artillery Automated Tactical Data Systems Specialist
I was the guy that made sure the tanks did not miss their target
Was that a job that you would be part of the tank crew? I almost went to Gulf war 1, was supprized I never got called in.
 
Back
Top