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Have 6.5 turbo diesel engine want to replace it

just got done driving the truck and now im scratching my head. put the radiator on yesterday and filled it up, then before my drive i checked everything and it was fine. drove to gas station to get diesel temp gauge got up to about 195-200. turned off the truck at gas station and gague didnt bust 110. get home and overlow/reservor, was filled to the top and radiator was dry. does anyone know what the problem might be???
 
How can you tell that the rad is dry? Just curious.

Could there still be some air in the system? That may cause the low temp. reading if there is no coolant on the sender.
 
Yeah, air may have pushed the water out and needs to work its way out. there might be an air release on tstat housing that could be used when first filling it. Otherwise it works out after a couple drives and you have to put like another half gallon in.
 
well just had a mechanic leave my house and told me that the engine needs to be rebuilt, he said the head gasket was blown so i was thinking if i have to pull the heads, and since there is blow by might as well pull the engine to rebuild it
 
well he put antifreeze in the radiator it blew it back in the reservor on him too, then when he had the cap of the radiator it just overflowed and came all out he said the engine needs to be rebuilt
 
yes engine cold and there is a tstat in housing, he poured some more aintfreeze in the radiator drove it two blocks and did the same thing when he brought it back to work the air out of the line
 
Without being there it's hard to say. I do know that if I open the rad cap on my vehicles while it is warming up coolant will overflow as it expands and the Tstat opens. I would try to get any and all air out first.
 
bummer

There are fixtures to check cooling systems for pressure and chemical tests to determine whether or not hydrocarbons (exhaust cross-contamination) are present. Radiator shop, or a mechanic with the tools.

My findings on cold fill of the cooling systems in these engines, about 98% of the air is out upon fill-up. When the engine is fired, top it off to about 2 inches down in the rad and let it do it's thing. No geysers for me at least. :)

I had a small block chevrolet puke a HG one time. It idled ok but goose the throttle and she vomited profusely..
 
does anyone know where i can get a compression tester from rent or buy, auto zone, advance, and orilleys doesnt carry them
 
ebay has compression testers. When a head gasket is blown into a water jacket it will blow air into the overflow like crazy. You should smell it in the exhaust too.
 
Don't you have to adapt them with a 1/8" pipe nipple? Seems like I read that here somewhere.
 
well hello again to everyone i have been very busy havent had time to get on here, just got me a boost gague but cant find any vac lines to tie into any suggestions
 
You'll have to tap a place on the intake. Diesels dont have vacuum lines to the intake, if they need vacuum a pump is added to the accessories on the belt.

Otherwise PMDcable.com sells a boost bolt which is a hollow bolt with threads for compression fitting or barb for the boost gauge line.
 
You don't tap into a vaccum line. You have to tap into the intake manifold itself. Contact burining oil and get his turbo boost bolt. It replaces a factory intake bolt and replaces it with a hollow bolt that the boost line can attach to.

Dangit Buddy you beat me to it! :eek:
 
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