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Have 6.5 turbo diesel engine want to replace it

Join the dead-hole & bad-IP club. At least that was what the problem with my 6.2 turbo video here. (replaced the two spun rod bearing 6.5)

Chug-a-lug!

http://www.youtube.com./watch?v=B2hbakUqTSs

I yanked this engine, switched the recip assy into a better block with good std slugs and re-ringed it.

Compression test for you, maybe? 400+K!! Wow...
 
gcxcountrystar1 said:
its gonna be more for racing but when i get my liscense back im going to be doing over the road hauls, moving trucks state to state. im not trying to insult the 6.5, its just i have had one problem after another. what i really want to do is build a engine so i know whats in that engine. first my trans starts bucking, then t stat goes out, then fuel like breaks, then radiator blows, then power steering pump starts leaking. i just keep on having one problem after another. why is it when one thing breaks it starts going down hill from there. went and got the book on my truck today, reading up on everything about the engine slowly learning
Click to expand...

I'm thankful to be reading this thread to find that you're working at solving the issues with your 6.5 instead of abandoning it for a mouse. You'll never get torque, HP, and longevity out of a small block. Stick with your 6.5, which appears to be what you're doing.

I couldn't help but notice, though, that all the problems you mentioned have nothing to do with the engine in any way. T-stat is a "wear item" and will have to be replaced on occasion. I had to do mine 8-9 years ago, as well. The other things, though, are unrelated to the 6.5 and could be expected to give up with any power plant. As mentioned, these engines CAN be powerhouses. Don't let the factory settings fool you. To say the factory was conservative on 6.5 expectations is the understatement of the decade.

Lots of us load up heavier than we should and these engines just do what they're asked to do.
 
snowdrift, i just replaced the t stat about 200 miles ago, just went went with the t stat is Part No. 14039 Stant 195 Degree Thermostat. I didnt know about the ac delco
 
gcxcountrystar1 said:
well just found the timing lines on the IP and the timing cover. the IP timing line is about a inch higher than the timing cover.
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Not sure what you mean by higher. They should be the same level. Is the IP mark on one side or the other of the timing chain housing mark? if yes, which way?
 
found the correct spot for timing its on a 1/16 inch with IP towards driver side with the timing cover line towards the passanger side
 
Got your email. Here are the pictures of timing mark location. Don't have a picture of timing chain cover as mine is a 96 and they are not pressent. Its a tiny mark on ip and matches the one on timing chain housing. They should be almost touching in the alignment or 1/8" to a max of 3/16" seperation.

ip timing mark 003.jpg
ip timing mark 001.jpg
 
We hit post at the exact same time!
Anyway try turning it 1/16" toward the pass side. Make sure engine is off while turning. Just snug up the top ip nut fire it up and see if it helped. You might get alittle more diesel rattle too. If you like it snug up the rest of the nuts.
 
No, just loosen the nuts. Then turn the ip and hold it in position while you snug up the top nut.
 
Yes, the thee on the IP mount to the timing cover, just loosen them a little until it will turn. You may need a half moon wrench or S-Bend wrench about 9" long to loosen bottom nuts. And to turn and hold the IP you can use a large oil filter pliers on the "neck" part of the IP right behind the mount.
 
Second shift is here!! I am able to get my old 93 with regular wrenches and a gear wrench.

Leaving for the evening now. Good luck.
 
If the cold advance isnt working it might make it louder until it warms up a little. But I imagine the cold advance is working and might be too advanced, in which case retarding will quiet it down.

Cant you adjust the idle on the throttle cable too, maybe needs a little more RPM.
 
as anyone used crows foot ratch to get to these bottom bolts, no one around here carries s wrenchs
 
I think the round 12 point ends will work best, but if they arent overly tight then a crows foot end might work.

Leroy said he could get to the DB2 nuts with some regular wrenches, thats not so on the later model DS4 pumps.

A half moon would probably be best, if its around 9" from tip to tip.

I use a 12-point 15mm wrench, but not sure if yours are 15mm.
 
they are 15mm bolts got the top bolt and driver side bolt loosen, dont have no play with a wrench on passenger side
 
I use a combo of regular wrenches and a gear wrench. TO ME he seems to be to retarded
and needs to advance alittle. Turning to pass side will advance. Whole procedure should take about 10 minutes + set up/clean up time.
 
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