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Have 6.5 turbo diesel engine want to replace it

I love our trucks and will always own 1 or 2 or 3 of them at a time so, don't get me wrong. There is no compairison in the "potential" power to be had between the 5.9 vs 6.5 The 12 valve is all mechanical and as stated above will fall right into place with very minimal pain in a 2wd. I would not do another 5.9 in a 4x4 though.
If I had a trashed 6.5 that needed complete rebuild and looking at $2500& up to rebuild it I would rather spend the same money on a 5.9 The 5.9 is easier to work on IMO.
:treed::coal:

gcx, it does sound like you got a dog, but anything can be rebuilt. Just takes time and money. Being as this is your first diesel I would take the time to learn about the 6.5 first, they are cheap and 93 is even easier than 94^.
I think I welcomed you in the other thread?? can't remember if not :welcome2:
 
Its a heavy truck, It can put down respectable #'s for a truck its size but wont win you any awards. Like I said earlier, it would be difficult to drop a 12 valve in and win races at the track in a dually too. That kind of power costs money. You are better off using the 6.5 to tow an s10 with SBC or similar to the track. You said you were going to be towing trucks across the state and the 6.5 dually is fit for that job, if you had a single cab 1/2 ton 4x4 6.5 I would say make an attempt at the strip.
 
Well crap you are golden then got it for free and a better vehicle to boot, this I know 1st hand I had an 84 Bronco II with the 2.8.

Well track monster it won't be, it will be better than it is now but won't get top billing for the Diesels, modern Diesels like the DMAX can plug in 100+ Hp with a tune alone so if strip dominator is your aim, 6.5 won't do it for you.

Especially in a dually you'll need to shed some pounds off the truck to make decent numbers. A DS4 electronic IP will put out more fuel than your DB2 does but requires puter to run it, if going that far I'd be looking for a mechanical Cummins to go in it as a LOT of work to put in the max Hp you could ever get from a "modern" Diesel requiring puter fuel delivery/injection.

Fix up the 6.5 and sell it, then go looking for a more modern Diesel if Diesel strip racing is your goal, or use the 6.5 dually to be the tow vehicle for the Diesel drag machine you build,

Now a 6.5 with Nitrous/WMI/Pane in SWB C1500 stripped down weight truck that could be "interesting" or maybe shoehorned into a S-10, but them tweaked Dmaxes-Cummins-Strokes are a force to be reckoned with no matter what you do to your 6.5
 
its not to win awards, just have some friends they have duallys, and other vehicles. we usually race once a month. have a 82 chevy c10, got old throught it was time for another toy. thats why i got rid of the ranger, i love chevy now too, dont think ill drive anything else
 
gcxcountrystar1 said:
its not to win awards, just have some friends they have duallys, and other vehicles. we usually race once a month. have a 82 chevy c10, got old throught it was time for another toy. thats why i got rid of the ranger, i love chevy now too, dont think ill drive anything else
Click to expand...

If they have "modern" Diesel duallys unless theirs is sick that day I suspect you'll be running at end of the pack, but looks like it could be fun if sticking to a dually class group
 
lol well today after i get a few hours of sleep im going radiator hunting, have a buddy coming over to flush out the cooling system and clean everything then he will do a pressure test. im searching online to find out how to do a blow by test, is it where i take off the oil cap and if it smokes i have a problem?
 
gcxcountrystar1 said:
im searching online to find out how to do a blow by test, is it where i take off the oil cap and if it smokes i have a problem?
Click to expand...

Yes, get it nice and warmed up after driving IDK 5-10 miles and pull the cap is the quick way. If you get a fair amount blow by that way there is a way to check the amount by i think. I haven't had to check further than pulling the cap yet myself.
 
Mine puffs from the oil filler neck and dip stick. Thought it would be a scrap pile in no time. Did the blow by test from Heath's Blog:
http://blog.heathdiesel.com/2007/01/engine-condition.html and learned that the situation wasn't as bad as I feared. Give the whole thing a read and test. With 400k, you need to know what you're dealing with.

Here's the blow by (buy?) test.

"It is always a good idea to perform a ‘crankcase blow-by’ test before doing upgrades as this will help to determine the relative health of the engine.
Checking the amount of ‘blow-by’ is a good way to determine the health of the 6.5’s cylinders.

"Blow-by refers to the combustion gas vapor that pushes past the pistons and rings. When the pistons, cylinders and rings are worn or damaged, they will be less affective in maintaining combustion gasses and will allow these gasses to leak past and into the crankcase, resulting in blow-by vapors.
The blow-by vapor will puff up out of the oil filler tube when the oil filler cap is removed.
If the engine is healthy, there will be little or no visible blow-by vapor. As the miles accumulate, it is expected that an increasing amount of blow-by will exist.

"The first step is to bring the engine to normal operating temperature by driving the truck.
With the engine idling, remove the oil filler cap to observe any blow-by vapor. This vapor, if it exists, will puff up out of the oil filler tube.
A healthy 6.5 will have little or no visible blow-by vapor puffing out of the oil filler tube. We have seen a great many 6.5’s that exhibit no vapor puffing even when they have accumulated 150-200,000 miles.
These are engines that have not suffered due to coolant overheat or by running worn injectors---the pistons, cylinders and rings are healthy.
In more advanced stages of cylinder wear, the blow-by vapor may puff out of the dipstick tube and past the dipstick handle. If you see vapor puffing out past the dipstick, there is considerable blow-by and possibly a scored cylinder----the engine is nearing failure.
If there is blow-by coming from around the dip-stick handle and if the engine is knocking and running rough at idle, this would suggest that it has a failing or failed piston, likely due to overheat conditions.

"We recommend a simple blow-by test that you can do in the driveway. It goes like this:
Obtain a 5’ section of clear 3/8” id tubing from the hardware store.

"After removing the oil dipstick, slip this tube over the dipstick tube. Drape the clear tubing over the fender and place the end of it in a container of water.
With the engine fully warmed up and idling, the water level in the clear tubing should be level with the water in the container.

"Rev the engine to around 2000 rpm. At this rpm, the water level in the clear tube should rise about 1” above that of the container.

"If the water fails to pull up into the clear tubing, this would suggest either a failed CDR (crankcase depression regulator) valve or excessive blow-by pressure."
 
i know a lot of people are gonna read this and shake their heads in shame but i have had this truck mayb a little over a month and have never checked the air filter. but i did get the oil change the day after i got it.
 
Shake in disbelief maybe , but not shame that is your head to shake :) it's all good we just need to get you to a base line to know overall health before many doing mods, who knows the previous owners air filter change periodicity maybe worse than yours
 
well i will check the air filter here in a few hours, then go on my hunt replace the radiator, and do pressure test, then do blow by test and will let you all know the results, if the air filter needs to be replace any recommendations or just get oem parts
 
gcxcountrystar1 said:
its gonna be more for racing but when i get my liscense back im going to be doing over the road hauls, moving trucks state to state. im not trying to insult the 6.5, its just i have had one problem after another. what i really want to do is build a engine so i know whats in that engine. first my trans starts bucking, then t stat goes out, then fuel like breaks, then radiator blows, then power steering pump starts leaking. i just keep on having one problem after another. why is it when one thing breaks it starts going down hill from there. went and got the book on my truck today, reading up on everything about the engine slowly learning
Click to expand...

But once you get the bugs worked out, you'l have one of the more desirable 6.5's and TRUCKS for that matter.

D-max = Dollars-Max
 
Don't give up on the 6.5 yet I've had mine for under a year and I work in the oilfield. We drive powerstrokes everyday and I can't wait to jump back into my truck. This suburban will out pull, out work a powerstroke and get twice the mileage. Everything I understand your saying is due to age and not your powerplant. With a few minor mods your 6.5 will give you plenty of satisfaction. I bought mine with the intention of a cummins swap but I think I'll stick with my current motor best of luck and don't worry your truck can pull 15000 lbs all day long
 
well didnt get to do anything with the truck today didnt know it was so hard to find a radiator for this.
 
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