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Greetings...and problems...

While the paper clip is in, hold both the brake and the APP to the floor for 45 seconds, then turn the key off and remove the clip.
 
You have no TCC lock? I dont think any old code will cause it, it has to be current. So you need to fix that light or get the scan tool. With no TCC lock and getting good mileage, thats crazy.
 
NVW said:
While the paper clip is in, hold both the brake and the APP to the floor for 45 seconds, then turn the key off and remove the clip.
Click to expand...

So let me ask a clarifying question (as lame as it may be). The clip should be in prior to putting key in run position...correct? Then after the brake and APP (what's the acronym please?)...just follow the 45 second deal and turn key off.
 
buddy said:
You have no TCC lock? I dont think any old code will cause it, it has to be current. So you need to fix that light or get the scan tool. With no TCC lock and getting good mileage, thats crazy.
Click to expand...

I ordered the cable and will connect up as soon as it gets here. I had heard that a code will kick the TC off...that's what I had heard. Anyway, I need to clear codes anyway, as the PMD was changed. I do agree 100% that the SES light needs repair and will dedicate some time to accomplish that, but this is the quickest method that I can think of to see if the cruise will work again.

Are you certain that a code won't disable the TC?
 
One point of note, at 60mph I'm running approx 2400 rpm. Fish biting happens slightly going up a long hill. Perhaps the LP, although new (OEM) isn't doing justice. Considering that I had filled up prior to getting input on the Diesel Power, I didn't put any 2 cycle in. I can do that on the next tank.
 
You can throw more additives in there if you like.

A code can stop TCC lock, but it would be a current one, and actualy fault that will come right back. Old historical codes wont stop TCC lock, so once the fault is gone a key cylce would resolve it.

Does your brake light work? Like if you put emergency/parking brake down does it light up?
 
alphadeltaromeo said:
So let me ask a clarifying question (as lame as it may be). The clip should be in prior to putting key in run position...correct? Then after the brake and APP (what's the acronym please?)...just follow the 45 second deal and turn key off.
Click to expand...

Yes, the clip should be in before the key is turned to run. Never start the vehicle with the clip in.

APP= accelerator pedal position

Acronyms are here: http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?11081-Acronyms-quot-What-you-talking-about-quot
 
Performed the reset and experienced no changes. I'll just wait until the cable gets here so I can see what's happening, as I'm rather blind at this point. Thanks again for the pointers gents.
 
On another note, I'm running 60mph and the tach is at 2400 rpm with 4.10's. Does that sound normal for what I should expect?
 
What size tires do you have? I have 265/75/16 and 4.10 and I'm running at 2100 at 62-63 MPH. So probably just over 2000 at 60. The tach runs off the alternator so a special size pulley is needed to get the tach in the correct RPM range. The stock pulley for a gasser is slightly smaller and will run the tach at a higher RPM than the motor is actually running. I don't remember for sure right now but I seem to remember 3.25 or 3.375" for the gasser pulley. If the alternator has ever been replaced more than likely you have a gasser pulley.

Don
 
Update

The OBD1/USB cable arrived today and this is what we know:

1. 265/75R16 tires: 60mph = 2025 rpm (we know we have the gasser pully now)

2. TDCO = -1.85

3. Desired Injection Timing = 8.7, Actual = 8.7/8

DTCs

35 Injection pulse width error (response time short)
36 Injection pulse width error (response time long)
41 Brake switch circuit fault
46 Malfunction indicator lamp circuit fail
78 Waste gate solenoid fault

We cleared the codes and 41 went away. 35/36 would come on periodically, but they weren't consistent at a particular measurement that we could tell.

46 Is on all the time - needs a new dash light
78 Came on under heavy acceleration

With codes cleared, cruise control still didn't function.

Thoughts?

Andy
 
Are you running any fuel lube like 2 stroke oil or non detergent 30 wt oil. In some cases they will help with the code 35 and 36.

PMD's can also cause 35 & 36, my spare is one, works otherwise though.

Are there problems with boost? I can't remember and am to lazy to reread this thread.
 
The recent tank was straight #2. I'll put in some 2 cycle next tank and see the results. The PMD is a new one from Heath...the remote mount.

Boost max at full throttle 3.54 until we hit 70mph and then we backed off. I put the peddle to the floor until 70mph.
 
Hey, alright, got some data now.

Did you get the complete version of GMTDScanTech? Did you run the TDCO learn procedure, because thats only way to ensure its set there.

I am guessing you still have a DTC41, but it takes a while for it to come back, switches have to disagree for 10 consecutive minutes.

Do you have a parking brake light? Is it working? Mine actually flashed DTC41 from the brake light, using the anti-lock brake computer I guess. You might have another light out, because it may be continuously flashing if it it were working.

The DTC35/36 could be a PMD, but since I thought you got a new one, its more like the IP, and adding some good lubricant may help.
 
It's certainly nice to have eyes into the vehicle issues :D

I have the full version, yes. I did see the TDCO learn button, but didn't use it...I'll run that tomorrow. On an extended run we'll see what codes come back. With the parking brake on, no light.

Yes, new PMD and I'm looking forward to putting in some lube. Are there outlets that sells 2 cycle in bulk?
 
Definitely get some lube in the fuel, that cleared my 35/36 codes. I would replace the brake light switch as it maybe linked to the "no cruise" issue too. I don't know if that 41 code refers to problems with emergency brake, regular brake system or both! That is a pretty good TDCO if it remains after the learn. As for the waste gate solenoid fault, check vacuum pump, all vacuum lines and plastic "tees" as they get brittle and break, and the solenoids themselves. There is usually a vacuum circuit diagram sticker on the radiator fan shroud for reference.
 
No parking brake light, thats kind of what I figured when you said TCC and cruise werent working. I am guessing they dont work on purpose, likely to pass some inspection or to sell the truck.

Wal-Mart sells TCW3 2-cycle oil in gallon jugs. They also sell the cheapest Non-Detergent SAE30 oil in quarts if you want to try that. Or the best would be running like B5 biodiesel. Or whatver amount of Bio to get 2-5% concentration.

For the Timing, you can read up in the recommended mnx/mod file I posted up elsewhere. You can try Time Set first, then TDCO Learn, explained in the file.
 
I believe that the TCC must be locking, as I doubt I'd be at 2025@60mph without it. I was just being fooled with the gasser pulley on the ALT. The PO told me he had a new ALT installed a while before I got it...makes good sense. Thanks for the input on the 2 cycle...will pick some of that up for sure. I'll be sure to read through that mod file, thanks again for all the excellent input gents!
 
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