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Greetings...and problems...

And this from someone who claims to not be very mechanically handy!!

Great job!

As for the front jump seat - maybe look for a front bench to replace the buckets?
 
I'm not...you are, thus I call you often for input ;)

I can't believe you're suggesting that I remove the extra comfy buckets so that my children can fit in...*gasp* lol - I'd prefer to get the seat that goes 'tween them, that also folds down and has drink holders :p
 
Not sure how it is in the 94's, but I know the bench in our 99 is almost every bit as comfortable as the buckets in the 95.
 
And this from someone who claims to not be very mechanically handy!!

Great job!

Handy with nice pictures also, you can be a new contributor to the DIY section. Have fun driving it now!
 
Thanks for the very positive comments gents. I have a considerable amount of learning to do, so this forum will become somewhat of a home for me during that process. One thing of note that I'll share...the wife commented the other day that perhaps we need another. I do believe she's embracing the purchase, even with the challenges I've had thus far *grin*.

I should be getting the PMD kit from Heath soon enough. I'll mount that and then do some test drives to see how it performs with the change.

I don't think the OPS has been changed. Considering that it's a $30 or so part, would it be advisable to just change it or not bother if the PMD resolves the issues? Is that a part that fails or needs changed on a particular basis? Does it matter if I stick with OEM or the NAPA one? I've seen folk advertise the "HD" version. What does that really mean and will it give some sort of performance gain or reliability? I know there is a MOD for the OPS and I'm examining that as well.

Thoughts?
 
OPS go with GM, they do go. Power to the lift pump goes through the OPS, this is a safety device which cuts lift pump if engine stalls in a rollover condition. One of our venders has a extension for the OPS if you do replace it it will make it easier next time. It is on this page with all sorts of other commonly needed 6.5 parts


PMDCABLE http://www.pmdcable.com/Products_and_Prices.html
 
Interesting. So would you say it's an on or off thing? It either works or doesn't? Thanks for the input.
 
Trouble is, is the 6.5 will run without the lift pump (hard on the Injector Pump) but is hard to tell sometimes. Under load it will act up quickly, may exhibit starting problems etc. One way to tell is with a 12v volt test light or volt meter on the power connector going into lift pump while running...should have power. This would indicate if it was in the fail condition but would not tell you if it was intermittent only if it was good at the time of testing. Like you said if in doubt change it.
 
Hmm...would be interesting to put a simple LED in the dash/cab going to the power lead of the LP...that would indicate no power under OPS failure. That would be a simple install and could be referenced if driving and issues are being experienced.

Ok, thanks for the input. I'll get the OEM and just change it while doing the PMD mod.

Andy
 
Check my previous post for the link and what some do is run a fuel pressure gauge which shows pressure under various conditions...great tool!:cool:
 
HD OPS is crap. All OPS will fail, everyone with an OBD1 truck should take the LP off of the OPS, with the OPS relay mod. I would go with the ACDelco OPS becuase I would trust its sender capability most, although any OPS will be fine to work with the OPS relay mod. This is one of the MUST DO reliability mods on a non-OBD2 truck. OBD2 trucks solved the failing OPS problem by always sending power through a relay triggered by the PCM. It has the OPS too, but with parallel power sources it takes load off the OPS, or even if OPS fails the relay still provides power. So you see GM fixed their mistake, left it up to us to fix it ourselves on older trucks.
 
HD OPS is crap. All OPS will fail, everyone with an OBD1 truck should take the LP off of the OPS, with the OPS relay mod. I would go with the ACDelco OPS becuase I would trust its sender capability most, although any OPS will be fine to work with the OPS relay mod. This is one of the MUST DO reliability mods on a non-OBD2 truck. OBD2 trucks solved the failing OPS problem by always sending power through a relay triggered by the PCM. It has the OPS too, but with parallel power sources it takes load off the OPS, or even if OPS fails the relay still provides power. So you see GM fixed their mistake, left it up to us to fix it ourselves on older trucks.

X2 even with the OBD-II redundant setup I opted for the OPS to control the relays that power the dual lift pumps to mine as one more reliability option.
 
Seems that the OPS has resolved the really flaky issues I've been experiencing. Vehicle stalling, loping, fish-biting. My oldest son, Jon did the physical work. Actually the truth be told, he and I have been looking through the technical articles and Heaths old blog...and he trouble shot the OPS this afternoon while I was at work and determined it to be faulty.

Replaced it and bingo, the 'burb works well now.

The remote PMD gets here soon and then that gets changed. I believe I'll order the OPS extension soon enough as well.

Thanks for all the input and welcomes...great site!

Andy
 
Or maybe in 60 miles your OPS failed again :) They really do suck, but in just 60 miles might be a stretch.

You can monitor voltage that your OPS is putting out. Contact G of your DLC (OBD1 connector) shows you the voltage at the LP while the engine is running. So you could put a meter on it and watch the voltage, if it ever drops below 10V then the LP will stop working. So even an LED light isnt good enough, because when it fails it often provides about 7V, which just wont run the LP.

I'm not saying its not the PMD, because it probably is, but just a tid bit of info for you. The OPS relay mod is important.
 
Interesting

Buddy...great point...it could have failed. I'll check that in a bit.

So I printed the instructions for the "code reading" and proceeded. I didn't see any code flashing. I tried it (4) times and was unable to see any code flashing. I've attached a pic of the dash, etc. for reference.

Thoughts?

Andy
 

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