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Greetings...and problems...

My 95 gasser's cruise would shut off every time I hit a bump, I replcaed the brake switch and it was cured.

My 95 6.5's cruise shuts off when the pmd goes crazy (new one ordered) and throws code 35 or 36. It wont work again until SES goes back off. So you MIGHT have a lose PMD connection if the brake switch isnt the cure.

I would check grounds and shut off solenoid fuse for the fish bite.
 
Mudbath said:
I believe that the TCC must be locking

I wonder if this is the "hickup" or "fishbit" your feeling?
Click to expand...

No sir, don't believe so. I think I've got the "feeling" of the TCC locking in...now, I've not noticed it lately but the son did when he was out with the wife the other day. I'll drive it some more and see if it continues or settles down.
 
I guess first thing you can do is just check the "STOP" fuse. On the scanner it will show you the brake flag when its pressed and when you release it should go away. If not then you know the issue. The diesel supplement to the GM manual is really good to have. Or an ALLDATAdiy subscription.
 
I have seen on some brake light switches that they are multi functional (control more than one item) Never had to change on my truck yet, but if it is multi functional I would replace any ways with a GM original. If it is just a simple brake on/brake off type, test like buddy says and pay particular attention to how the adjustment is, as previously mentioned by OP they can turn on by simply hitting a bump and Brake light on = Cruise control off

"No sir, don't believe so. I think I've got the "feeling" of the TCC locking in...now"

So to clarify, the TCC wasn't locking before but now it is and you haven't noticed the "fishbite" since?
 
I believe that the TCC was always locking up. It was really more a lack of understanding and experience with the vehicle to know the feel of it locking up. Coupled with the issue of the incorrect ALT pulley, it threw me off. I've noticed some fish-biting still after the new PMD, but it has minimized as I put in some 2 cycle into the tank. I'm rather amazed at how quiet it has become with the 2 cycle. I believe the rest of my fish-biting will relate to the adjustment of the IP, running a fuel supplement, and perhaps a better LP. I'm considering removing the sock in the tank and using a spin-on water/fuel filter pre-LP.

I know that my IP needs adjusting to correct an incorrectly set TDCO. I'll be searching for a better wrench to access the IP for adjustment.

So, I've done a bit of research into bulk suppliers of "oil" to add to the fuel. Can I get some input as to what I should stay away from as it relates to veggie oil? Will veggie be a good supplement, like the 2 cycle? I've found it for $4.95/gallon. The 2 cycle I found was approx $10/gallon.

Thoughts?
 
If you have found B100 or B99 just put a gallon of it in the tank when you fill up. Biodiesel would be the safest additive as far as veggie goes, because it would burn cleaner. A 2% concentration of B99 is enough, but I wouldnt use more than 5%, such as just filling up completely with B5. Normal veggie oil at a 2% ratio shouldn't really affect the clouding either, but I wouldnt do any more.

That is the best lubricant, but with the 2 cylce at $10 per gallon, that will last you 4 full fillups of 25-30 gallons. 1 quarts or even a little less per tank, because you just need around 0.5% concentration, 200:1 ratio of 2-cycle. The veggie needs 2% ratio to provide the superior lubrication. So it really works out close to the same, since you would want about 2 quarts of veggie oil per 25-30 gallon fillup, so still about $10 for four fillups except have to carry more volume of veggie oil. Except the veggie would have better lubrication, although the 2-cycle exceeds the necessary lubrication.
 
Oh and that goes to show you that PowerService is still inadequate as a lubricity additive to ULSD. I'm not even confident its cetane improver does anything. I have been meaning to try Red Line's RL-3 diesel catalyst and cetane improver with the 2-cycle oil too.
 
Hmm...thinking about this...if I use the veggie oil, I'll then be putting 2x's the amount of 2 cycle, which in effect is costing me the same, right. But, I'll be saving a quart of diesel fuel with the added quart of veggie vs. a 2 cycle addition. This would account for it being even cheaper. In addition, the thought about it being a better lubricant...seems that may be a better solution.

Just thinking out loud.
 
buddy said:
Oh and that goes to show you that PowerService is still inadequate as a lubricity additive to ULSD. I'm not even confident its cetane improver does anything. I have been meaning to try Red Line's RL-3 diesel catalyst and cetane improver with the 2-cycle oil too.
Click to expand...

I do believe that you're quite right. The PowerService did nothing to quiet down the engine. I'm impressed with the 2 cycle.
 
mangus580 said:
buddy - I am curious why you suggest no more than about B5?
Click to expand...

Mainly my ignorance on its properties and lack of my own research to prove to me its both safe in the system and does not interfere with the OS. If something has a cloud point before diesel I kind of rule it out as something I would want in high concentration in the fuel. Bio/veggie has much higher cloud points, and its variable based on its base stock, but generally near freezing (32F) compared to negative temps of diesel. I wonder its affects on the OS itself, if it leaves a film of some sort that will require you to remove the OS and clean it and reinstall. This is something I have not seen people recommend, but I have heard of helping. This similar problem could be encountered from using the wrong lubricant, with solid lubrcicants similar to graphite. Seen that in the LubroMolly product. I realize its not the same but there are things I wouldnt wipe the lens of my camera with, detergents and other stuff as well, dont know if additional acids in the bio will affect it. So I kind of also default to Stanadynes warnings or recommendation to not use higher than B5 in a DS4. Is IP warranty a consideration? Fuel lines going to be eaten by bio? seals need to be changed? Seals in the IP going to fail prematurely?

There are ways to combat temperature issues that makes it work great, but I don't know the long term affects. An IP that may have lasted 6 years on B5 may only go 4 years on B20 or 2 years on B99, ect... I just don't know. I don't know a US diesel engine produced that will warranty past B20.
 
buddy said:
Mainly my ignorance on its properties and lack of my own research to prove to me its both safe in the system and does not interfere with the OS. If something has a cloud point before diesel I kind of rule it out as something I would want in high concentration in the fuel. Bio/veggie has much higher cloud points, and its variable based on its base stock, but generally near freezing (32F) compared to negative temps of diesel. I wonder its affects on the OS itself, if it leaves a film of some sort that will require you to remove the OS and clean it and reinstall. This is something I have not seen people recommend, but I have heard of helping. This similar problem could be encountered from using the wrong lubricant, with solid lubrcicants similar to graphite. Seen that in the LubroMolly product. I realize its not the same but there are things I wouldnt wipe the lens of my camera with, detergents and other stuff as well, dont know if additional acids in the bio will affect it. So I kind of also default to Stanadynes warnings or recommendation to not use higher than B5 in a DS4. Is IP warranty a consideration? Fuel lines going to be eaten by bio? seals need to be changed? Seals in the IP going to fail prematurely?

There are ways to combat temperature issues that makes it work great, but I don't know the long term affects. An IP that may have lasted 6 years on B5 may only go 4 years on B20 or 2 years on B99, ect... I just don't know. I don't know a US diesel engine produced that will warranty past B20.
Click to expand...

Ok - that all makes sense. I ran mostly B100 all summer in both trucks last year. No effects to date other than premature filter failure as it got colder out. I think that was more a fuel heater issue than anything though.

FYI the cloud point of Summer USLD is about the same as good quality B100.

I am pretty sure in terms of warranty - that no manufacture can deny warranty for running biodiesel as its a certified diesel fuel. Hell, ASTM specs for biodiesel are much more strict than USLD!


Anyway... on with andy's problems! (well those that we can solve!! :D )
 
mangus580 said:
Ok - that all makes sense. I ran mostly B100 all summer in both trucks last year. No effects to date other than premature filter failure as it got colder out. I think that was more a fuel heater issue than anything though.

FYI the cloud point of Summer USLD is about the same as good quality B100.

I am pretty sure in terms of warranty - that no manufacture can deny warranty for running biodiesel as its a certified diesel fuel. Hell, ASTM specs for biodiesel are much more strict than USLD!
Click to expand...
It may be similar cloud point in some mix of biodiesel, I was looking at some differnent sources like this one that shows it quite different.
http://www.eia.doe.gov/cneaf/solar.renewables/page/trends/tableh3.html

It is in warranty paperwork for most diesel engines that running more than B20 will void warranty. Only up to B20 is actually a certified diesel fuel unless that has changed, so that helps them. There are two different US specs, one for up to B5 and another for B6-B20.

This also shows Stanadyne testing that shows youre already saturated in lubrication at the 2% point of bio.
http://www.biodiesel.org/pdf_files/fuelfactsheets/Lubricity.PDF

Here is Stanadynes position on fuels, accepting US B5 with some reluctance still. Only officially in agreement with Europes B7.
http://www.stanadyne.com/docs/pubs/FIEM_Common_Position_Statement_2009.pdf

I sent them an email asking for the DS4 warranty terms to see if it includes a biodiesel statement, but last I heard it was B5.
 
Interesting information. Considering the issues I have had with summer USLD in the winter..... :)

I wonder if that first link is for a winter blend?

As far as the warranty stuff - its what I have been told.... I dont have anything to back it up.
 
On a serious note though, I'll be pulling the radiator and cleaning that and the oil cooler/air etc. I still dont know if I'm bleeding compression into the cooling system, but will be verifying that this weekend.
 
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