• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Greetings...and problems...

Sandersville GA is approx 3.5 hours drive...a ways. I read through the quick disco hose post that mudbath linked to...a great post. Thanks for the input.
 
Welcome aboard nice looking Burb :thumbsup:

That info you posted about the cooling system blowing gas vapor out of it would have me a bit concerned about the health of yr motor. Hope you don't have any cracks or a gasket going south.

AC delco or Robert Shaw only for the T stat the other brands have been known to cause cooling issues with the 6.5. The part #'s are listed in the sticky section. Many of us purchase our 6.5 parts through the site vendors here. My last T stat came from Rock Auto . com
 
Ok, so let's assume that the cooling system is working exactly as it should, with a clean RAD...what should normal operating temp be at 65mph on a long drive?

Last i checked using GMTD Scanner i was running 188*-193* I saw 196* on a long hill unloaded 90* ambient air temps. That is with a clean rad, dmax fan, and modified fan clutch. Those were also before the K47 intake, straight pipe, and tuning.
 
Last i checked using GMTD Scanner i was running 188*-193* I saw 196* on a long hill unloaded 90* ambient air temps. That is with a clean rad, dmax fan, and modified fan clutch. Those were also before the K47 intake, straight pipe, and tuning.
Good point on the aircleaner. The heating up issues I had on the grades coincided when I was still running my "cold air" NOT intake the PO had installed. Now that I have the AFE set up and have isolated the draw to come back through the fender only, I've not seen temps above 195*. Still, I'd rather have the K47 or another boxed in set up I've seen in prototype only.
Bill told me the best thing I could do after cleaning the rad to lower temps was to upgrade the exhaust. Once I installed my 4" exhaust kit with cross over, I never saw 200+ again. Better air intake followed with better results. The upgraded waterpump, fan and clutch proved to be added insurance which has paid off too.
 
Welcome:hello:
On your "To Do" list , removing the radiator from the truck and throughly cleaning it should be near the top. The radiators on these are bug and dirt trapps. You won't believe how much comes out of them. The a/c condenser holds a lot of dirt also but has to be cleaned in the truck. The oil cooler should be taken loose also to get the mat of bugs and weed seeds out from between it and the condenser.While you have the radiator out giving it a bath you should cut a hole in the core support for a drain hose on the radiator. You will know why when you try to drain the radiator.:???::mad2: A few pics of it in this thread of mine http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?27109-Just-a-94-k3500-srw-thread
 
Welcome, nice looking burb!

You've got all the best advice you could already, just go through the suggestions methodically and you'll be an expert in no time.
 
Thanks for all the input gents...much appreciated!

Ok update...as many have experienced, that aluminum quick-attach on the manifold broke with minimal pressure. I'm going to get an internal pipe wrench tomorrow a.m. to see about extracting the inside piece that was left. I've picked up a 1/2 ntp hose nipple to replace the broken fitting with some high-temp liquid teflon. I have some 5/8 heater hose to make a new section, but will only use about 5 or so inches of it.

What I decided to do was cut the metal pipe just before the quick-attach fitting so that I could slip the 5/8 heater hose over it in order to preserve the flow rate of the coolant, and also because the metal pipe is shielded from the heat of the turbo. I'll post an update on how things go tomorrow. Any other input is definitely welcome, but this is what I've come up with so far.

Andy
 
Thanks also for the thoughts on the Suburban...even with the issues I'm really enjoying it so far. As another note I've ordered the Heath PMD kit. I'm trusting the new PMD will eliminate the surging and dying issues I shared before. Kit arrives next week, so looking forward to getting that on.
 
Andy - if you cant get the fitting out, let me know. I am about 90% sure I have another housing kicking around from my engine swap.

Glad to see you are figuring things out. Now if only you could find a jump seat for the back to fit all your kids in it!!!

You really should have looked for a retired school bus for the size of your family!!
 
Andy - if you cant get the fitting out, let me know. I am about 90% sure I have another housing kicking around from my engine swap.

Glad to see you are figuring things out. Now if only you could find a jump seat for the back to fit all your kids in it!!!

You really should have looked for a retired school bus for the size of your family!!

Mike...I'm working on the family bus *grin* it will be called an MCI with the detroit diesel. We'll come up and visit ya'll again when we have it converted (gotta buy it first though).

The jump seat is something we're looking at. Actually want to get one for the rear and then one between the front buckets. I'm trying to source one that won't cost me an arm-n-leg...they're amazingly expensive. If I fab my own, insurance won't cover me. I'm quite sure I could make a much more stout rear jump though.
 
Fixed leak...

The leak has been fixed. Getting the thread remnant out was a pain, but I pulled the intake and used a dremel to weaken the piece. I didn't buzz all the way through...didn't need to. Then used a fine point punch to bust it up. Needle nose pliers helped extract. Then a 1/2 NTP thread tool to make sure it was clean and no more leaks.

I'll have to watch it carefully to make sure that I don't have a HG leak. I'm thinking that I may not at this point. Drove for about 25 miles and it didn't leak, checking a few times on the road.

Going to change the fuel filter after lunch and inspect the housing to see if there is junk in the canister.
 

Attachments

  • 3.jpg
    3.jpg
    52.3 KB · Views: 6
  • 2.jpg
    2.jpg
    50.4 KB · Views: 7
  • 1.jpg
    1.jpg
    45.2 KB · Views: 7
Bill Heath will treat you right, and is the 6.5 Guru and will share that knowledge if you need to give him a call.

I didn't chat with Bill I don't believe, but the gent that assisted me was excellent and chatted about other performance improvements as well. Thanks mudbath :)
 
Back
Top