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GMTD scan tech

Thanks dbrannon79, yea I’m not sure it is not the injectors I didn’t check them. Pro Tech Diesel in MT checked them and they were recommended from this forum. I talked w/ the guy and he said he didn’t have to do anything to them they were fine. I believe MrMarty said on here that he checked this guys work by checking the Inj. he sent them w/ a tester he had and they were all good. Yea like I said I’ll probably try my old pump but maybe I’ll try doing the timing again especially since I haven’t heard if it’s set right after posting my engine data from the scanner. I would feel better getting an IP dtc before pulling the pump. Does anybody have any suggestions on where to have a rebuilt IP checked out if I go that route. I bought the pump from Quadstar back in early 23’ I’m sure it’s out of warranty but I will try check with them also. Thanks again.
 
Now I know this is a crazy thought, but when you installed the new IP, is it at all possible one or more of the IP lines are crossed? I don't know if this is possible or not since they are steel and normally only fit one way on the IP. Yeah and I know that means pulling the intake to verify. if you do try to swap IP's, verify this before moving forward with the IP swap.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Now I know this is a crazy thought, but when you installed the new IP, is it at all possible one or more of the IP lines are crossed? I don't know if this is possible or not since they are steel and normally only fit one way on the IP. Yeah and I know that means pulling the intake to verify. if you do try to swap IP's, verify this before moving forward with the IP swap.
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IMG_1074.jpeg
 
dbrannon79 said:
Now I know this is a crazy thought, but when you installed the new IP, is it at all possible one or more of the IP lines are crossed? I don't know if this is possible or not since they are steel and normally only fit one way on the IP. Yeah and I know that means pulling the intake to verify. if you do try to swap IP's, verify this before moving forward with the IP swap.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I am not beyond making mistakes. I will definitely check before pulling the pump. Thanks for all the help.
 
Hi everybody, I don’t want to put anybody on the spot on this forum. But did anybody on here get a chance to look at the engine data video I posted? I do hope the video is viewable.
I wanted to know if I set the timing right. Or can you even tell by looking at it? This is my first diesel and it’s a different ball game setting the timing. I was a little confused while doing it. I know the video is a little long along with my post but I just want to cover all the bases while troubleshooting this problem. I appreciate everybody’s help and opinions thanks guys.
 
-0.44 is a good TDC offset and within factory spec. so that should be fine. you can bump it up to -1.70 if desired, it will rattle slightly more and give "some" extra performance, but not enough to make it worth pulling your hair out getting it there LOL. I assume this is the setting it fell on after getting your injectors back since they were tested? if you have not moved the IP since you set the timing, you can try doing it again and see if it falls back on that number or close to it. if it settles wildly different or even goes out of spec setting more codes, then you have an issue with the IP or the timing chain being stretched where it can't hold timing.
 
dbrannon79 said:
-0.44 is a good TDC offset and within factory spec. so that should be fine. you can bump it up to -1.70 if desired, it will rattle slightly more and give "some" extra performance, but not enough to make it worth pulling your hair out getting it there LOL. I assume this is the setting it fell on after getting your injectors back since they were tested? if you have not moved the IP since you set the timing, you can try doing it again and see if it falls back on that number or close to it. if it settles wildly different or even goes out of spec setting more codes, then you have an issue with the IP or the timing chain being stretched where it can't hold timing.
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No I haven’t mess w/ the timing. If I bump up the offset and it doesn’t fall back close to -0.44 would point to the IP I don’t think the chain is bad it’s a new motor. Done its a bad IP. But if it does fall back close to-0.44 could the IP still be bad causing my problem? Hope I find a inj. line in the wrong place. Looks like I have a lot of garage time ahead.
Thanks guys for the help.
 
Goose57 said:
If I bump up the offset and it doesn’t fall back close to -0.44 would point to the IP
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No, if you just try running the time set seeing what number it falls on without moving the IP and it doesn't fall back close to -0.44. this might indicate a bad IP. sometimes but not always.

I was saying you can bump it to get slightly better performance up to -1.70, but this is after you figure out what the issue is first.

double check the IP lines to each injector first, then go from there. if all the IP lines are in the right places, then I would try swapping the IP's and go from there.
 
dbrannon79 said:
No, if you just try running the time set seeing what number it falls on without moving the IP and it doesn't fall back close to -0.44. this might indicate a bad IP. sometimes but not always.

I was saying you can bump it to get slightly better performance up to -1.70, but this is after you figure out what the issue is first.

double check the IP lines to each injector first, then go from there. if all the IP lines are in the right places, then I would try swapping the IP's and go from there.
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👍
 
Hi all I just got done getting my original IP in and all the lines hooked up. All the inj. lines where in there right spots. I sure was hoping at least one line was in the wrong place causing my problem. I did run the time set again and the TDCO when back to where it was. I did move the new pump a little to the drivers side before pulling it and did the time set and the TDCO moved from -0.44 to -1.94 and it was missing more. Boy if the original IP does not fix my problem I don’t no what else to do. Pull the valve covers and do a leak down test? Have the reman IP checked out? I called the guy that checked my injectors and explained my issue with it missing and cylinder balance codes and reassured me that the injectors were OK. I asked him if I could send him that video of my truck on a warm start up and see what he thinks. Haven’t heard back yet. I watched that video of the warm startup of my truck and noticed that the really black smoke only came out the tail pipe after cranking a long time before it started then after that the smoke was a grey color and didn’t smell like diesel and missing. Was the black smoke caused by all the fuel in the cylinders not igniting during the long crank time. I only say this because, if the injectors were bad wouldn’t it keep blowing black smoke out the tail pipe? And I only say that because I’m not sure of the injectors and was thinking about getting an injector tester like MrMarty did and pop my injectors to make sure. I’m getting way ahead of myself. I’ll report back after I finish up my original pump install. Sorry for another long post. Thanks a lot guys.
 
you said the grey smoke didn't smell like diesel. what did it smell like. if you have antifreeze in the cooling system and it's burning coolant, it will have a sweet smell, but would also be more of a white color smoke. the grey can be oil. this can be from valve seals or warn piston rings.

didn't you already do a compression test? if so, remind me what each cylinder was at.

the black smoke is raw fuel. the injectors you have now are new delco's correct? and your old ones were showing the same symptoms before you replaced them?

Once you get the engine back together where you can run it with all sensors connected, start it up and verify it runs, then shut it all down, disco both batteries for about 5 minutes. re-connect and before starting the truck, connect the scanner and verify ALL codes are gone including any historical codes so your starting off fresh. start the engine with the scanner connected, let it idle a few minutes and before shutting it off, check codes again. see if any balance codes return, or any other codes.

report back. we need to get more folks that know DS4 trucks here to help. at least before you fire the parts cannon on something we didn't need.

Maybe @Glagulator or @Rockabillyrat can chime in with their knowledge. they are far more knowledgeable on this than I am.
 
dbrannon79 said:
you said the grey smoke didn't smell like diesel. what did it smell like. if you have antifreeze in the cooling system and it's burning coolant, it will have a sweet smell, but would also be more of a white color smoke. the grey can be oil. this can be from valve seals or warn piston rings.

didn't you already do a compression test? if so, remind me what each cylinder was at.

the black smoke is raw fuel. the injectors you have now are new delco's correct? and your old ones were showing the same symptoms before you replaced them?

Once you get the engine back together where you can run it with all sensors connected, start it up and verify it runs, then shut it all down, disco both batteries for about 5 minutes. re-connect and before starting the truck, connect the scanner and verify ALL codes are gone including any historical codes so your starting off fresh. start the engine with the scanner connected, let it idle a few minutes and before shutting it off, check codes again. see if any balance codes return, or any other codes.

report back. we need to get more folks that know DS4 trucks here to help. at least before you fire the parts cannon on something we didn't need.

Maybe @Glagulator or @Rockabillyrat can chime in with their knowledge. they are far more knowledgeable on this than I am.
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Thanks d, I’m not sure what it smelled like, I’m an old gasser mechanic use to smelling a gasoline flooded exhaust. It wasn’t sweet. I keep checking the oil level to see if it ever rises. I did do a comp. test 400+ on all 8cyl. (post #157). I agree with you on the black smoke being raw fuel but why is it not igniting in the cylinders right away? GP circuit 100+ amps on both GP harnesses and 56+ amps on one harness. Battery charger on the batteries. Lift pump volume test at the T-valve OK. No air in the clear return line. 2 PMD,s. 1 on my truck before changing the motor I guess you can call it a known good one and one new one SSDiesel both have the grey colored back. From being on these diesel forums I guess there are no places you can send the PMD and have it checked out. I guess I’ll have to find somebody willing to take my PMD and try it on their truck if it comes to that. Fuel air mixture in the cylinder wrong? Valves, valve timing? No, the inj. are supposed to be new Bosch made in India (post # 145). I believe MrMarty51 has the same inj. There are pic,s of the inj. in that post. The old inj. ran fine in the truck before changing the motor. I will definitely try your troubleshooting procedure. I have numerous times cleared the currant and history balance codes and the come back after running the truck again. My plan: put it back together and do d,s troubleshooting procedure, if my original IP installation fixes the problem done we figured it out. If not🙏🏻 pull valve covers and inspect rockers do a cylinder leak down test. Have the reman IP checked out. Where can I send the IP to be checked out? I was asked by another source after sending videos of the engine data and truck start up after warmed up ( Post #157). He said the timing was conservative at -0.44 they recommend -0.5 to -0.9. His is set at -0.88 because it was easier to set it there. I also sent a video to Joe at Pro Tech Diesel ( they checked my inj.) of my truck at startup. He seemed pretty helpful. Should I fill out that long troubleshooting check list maybe somebody will see something I missed.
Oh I did read gmctd older post on DS4 trying to figure something out looks like he knows about DS4,s it was very much over my head. Thanks guys for listening me going on and on.
 
MrMarty51 said:
You just post away, no matter the length or the amount.
We will all read and we will all learn.
Thank You for posting and seeing this through to the end.
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Hey MrMarty51, I would like to pop my Bosch injectors. I believe you mentioned buying an injection tester to re check your tested injectors. Where did you purchase that tester. Thanks.
 
Have you tried running it with the CPS disconnected and then again with the OPS disconnected
to see if there is any difference in how it runs?
I doubt the injectors are the problem or the IP since both IP's do the same thing.
Probably electrical or even timing gear off.
You could try removing the transmission main connector and see if that makes any difference.
There is a reason for this test.
 
Glagulator said:
Have you tried running it with the CPS disconnected and then again with the OPS disconnected
to see if there is any difference in how it runs?
I doubt the injectors are the problem or the IP since both IP's do the same thing.
Probably electrical or even timing gear off.
You could try removing the transmission main connector and see if that makes any difference.
There is a reason for this test.
Click to expand...
Thanks Glagulator, I haven’t tried my original IP. I have it installed and all the lines hooked up all I have to do is put the intake back on. No I haven’t disconnected those sensors but I did unhook the 2 wire ECT and the rpm’s went up and still smoked and I think it was still missing hard to tell w/ the rpm,s that high. Do I unhook the sensors while it’s running? I did check for reference voltage on all the sensors. I do have an upgraded harness that goes to the IP and some sensors that goes over the top of the intake and I did do an ohm test on the connections. I do remember taking care and looking at the manual when installing the IP. I do remember having to rotate the motor to line up the marks. If I have to take the timing cover off to make sure I will. I definitely will unhook the trans. connector because I did take it down the street and it wouldn’t shift right and got a VSS dtc. I did clear it and it never came back but I didn’t drive it again. Now I do remember that lower harness that goes down to the trans. been messed with and spliced. Maybe you have something there. I’ll finish up with the IP installation and report back. Thanks again.
 
The fun thing isnt double and triple checking but sometimes that gets it.
So…
If you disconnect the injector lines from the injectors and try to start it- you should get little “spits” of fuel coming out. To keep the mess down you can slip an empty water bottle over each line and crank away. This tells a lot.

Do that test and report back
 
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