• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

GMTD scan tech

Goose57 said:
Hey MrMarty51, I would like to pop my Bosch injectors. I believe you mentioned buying an injection tester to re check your tested injectors. Where did you purchase that tester. Thanks.
Click to expand...
I got that tester off of Amazon.
It is a made in India thing too.
The screwey part about that tester is that the gauge threads are some kind of British pipe thread, IIRC, well, some sort of british thread.
I wanted to put a gauge on it with the high pressure indicator, the needle bumps it up.
I dont remember why I didnt get this done, trouble finding an adapter or some such.
Finally said screw it and just tested the innectors.
Now I did not test the injectors after getting them back this time.
I’m just trusting His workmanship and running with it.
 
Disconnecting the ECT (coolant sensor) will make it run rich with fuel (some black smoke). Do what Glagulator says, disconnecting the CPS (crank position sensor) run the engine then reconnect and then disconnect the OP (optic sensor on top of the IP) and see if there is a difference. both will set a code but will run so long as the other is connected. one other thing is with the delco 60G glows, they do need slightly more time to heat up than the original ones. on my 95, I had to extend the time they stay on otherwise my truck would not start! while your are doing the above testing, count how long the wait to start light is staying on for. count 1-1000,2-1000, 3-1000.... and tell us how many seconds the light stays on for. this can account for the black smoke at start up if they are not staying on long enough but not for the constant grey smoke and missing while running.

Unless putting the old pump back makes it run correctly.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Disconnecting the ECT (coolant sensor) will make it run rich with fuel (some black smoke). Do what Glagulator says, disconnecting the CPS (crank position sensor) run the engine then reconnect and then disconnect the OP (optic sensor on top of the IP) and see if there is a difference. both will set a code but will run so long as the other is connected. one other thing is with the delco 60G glows, they do need slightly more time to heat up than the original ones. on my 95, I had to extend the time they stay on otherwise my truck would not start! while your are doing the above testing, count how long the wait to start light is staying on for. count 1-1000,2-1000, 3-1000.... and tell us how many seconds the light stays on for. this can account for the black smoke at start up if they are not staying on long enough but not for the constant grey smoke and missing while running.

Unless putting the old pump back makes it run correctly.
Click to expand...
Thanks d, I thought Glad meant the oil pressure switch. Is there a procedure in the Stickies on this site to extend the GP run time?
 
Goose57 said:
Thanks d, I thought Glad meant the oil pressure switch. Is there a procedure in the Stickies on this site to extend the GP run time?
Click to expand...
95 or older, the chip can be altered.
D has the capabilities to alter the chip.
96 and onwards requires the PTCM/ECM be sent to an entity that has the equipment to make the changes within the box.
Leroy Diesel has a GP over ride kit available, push a button in the cab and the GPs is held on.
The kit can also be home produced using a Dodge, or ford, starter solenoid.
One of them that was once mounted on the under hood side of the fender well or firewall.
 
MrMarty51 said:
95 or older, the chip can be altered.
D has the capabilities to alter the chip.
96 and onwards requires the PTCM/ECM be sent to an entity that has the equipment to make the changes within the box.
Leroy Diesel has a GP over ride kit available, push a button in the cab and the GPs is held on.
The kit can also be home produced using a Dodge, or ford, starter solenoid.
One of them that was once mounted on the under hood side of the fender well or firewall.
Click to expand...
Thanks Marty
 
Will L. said:
The fun thing isnt double and triple checking but sometimes that gets it.
So…
If you disconnect the injector lines from the injectors and try to start it- you should get little “spits” of fuel coming out. To keep the mess down you can slip an empty water bottle over each line and crank away. This tells a lot.

Do that test and report back
Click to expand...
Thanks Will for your input, I already have my original IP back on for troubleshooting purposes. If that doesn’t fix it I’ll be putting the new one back on then I can do the bottle test. Is there a volume level I should look for in each bottle? Or just make sure they all have the same level in them. Hell maybe I’ll do the test on my original IP I have on there now. With all the other test I’ll be doing I might as well put a cot for sleeping in the garage 😩lol. Thanks again.
 
MrMarty51 said:
@dbrannon79 will come along and let You know what He has the capabilities of producing.
Click to expand...
Thanks Marty, I think we’re on to something on the GP ,s. I just thought that having the correct amp readings on the GP harnesses 100+ amps on both harnesses and 50+ amps on just one. Along w/new GP and new harnesses was enough to start these motors. I was reading up on the GP systems on these diesel sites a boy the must need a lot of heat to start these motors up. I say that because on mine now I have the amp readings to the GP,s but for only about 6 seconds. And I still don’t know if I have 60g,s GP,s or not. Also if they are self regulating or not that new info. for me. There are no markings on mine.
 
Goose57 said:
Thanks Marty, I think we’re on to something on the GP ,s. I just thought that having the correct amp readings on the GP harnesses 100+ amps on both harnesses and 50+ amps on just one. Along w/new GP and new harnesses was enough to start these motors. I was reading up on the GP systems on these diesel sites a boy the must need a lot of heat to start these motors up. I say that because on mine now I have the amp readings to the GP,s but for only about 6 seconds. And I still don’t know if I have 60g,s GP,s or not. Also if they are self regulating or not that new info. for me. There are no markings on mine.
Click to expand...
If the glow plugs have no markings, I would buy ACDELCO 60G glow plugs and pitch what you have.
 
I'm with Jeff on pitching the GP's if there are no markings on them. where did you get them? the 60g's are self regulating, that's the beauty of them never the swell on you. also 100+ amp draw is kinda high. total they should only draw around 90 amps when on.

if you want a cheap and easy way to install an override push button to manually turn on the GP's, for the 95+ trucks, there is a yellow wire going to the controller. this is the power signal wire coming from the PCM that turns on the controller. you can splice into this wire and run it to a push button and run the other side of that button to a positive without the need of a relay or extra solenoid. I would add a diode inline on the yellow wire going back to the PCM though so your not back feeding to the PCM when you press the button.
 
I do have the equipment to essentially modify the programming for the 94-95 PCM's on these trucks I bought back before Moates went out of business. all I would need is a blank 27SF512 EEPROM chip to program and this would plug into your PCM under the cover replacing the factory chip in it. Once this change is done, you would have to keep using the 60g's, if you run any of the others like the quick heat GP's its a guarantee they will swell and go fubar causing you a lot of grief.

I don't charge for doing this ether! just buy me a blank chip and let me know what the call letters are that's on your factory one along with if it's an automagical trans or manual shift. I have the base tune file GM sent out in 96 which was the last "update" they did for the 94-95 for the automatics. Now if you have a custom tune already installed and want to keep that installed, I would most likely need to read that chip so I could add the extended GP time on to it.

But this is for a later down the road adventure. lets figure out and get your rig running correctly before doing this if you desire.
 
Hi all I just finished up installing my original IP and did the Time Set and the TDCO offset learn. I use a ECT fooler because I had drained the coolant out to remove the intake and didn’t want to put the coolant back in because I was going to take the intake off again. It started up with no miss and no smoke YEAH . The offset started at -2.02 and I got it down to -1.04 after 3 rounds of moving the IP and stopped there because I knew I was probably going to take it back off. I got worried about running it with out coolant so I put the coolant back in and brought the temp back up shut the motor off and plugged the ECT back in and it started right up no miss or smoke and no dtc,s Now I’m going to have to go through the trouble of trying to get another one from were I bought it. It’s been over a year. And I would be worried about the second one be bad also after dbrannon79 post about standadyne not making any more parts. If I can’t return the reman new IP is there a place I can send it to be fixed? Or would it be worth having my original rebuilt? I know you guys recommend going to a mechanical
IP but I don’t think I want to go through the trouble of getting a trans. controller and installing it. I curious why I didn’t see any IP dtc,s anybody out there have any thoughts. I can wait to start it up in the morning when it’s cold. I really appreciate everyone’s help.

 
Talk to Quadstar about the IP and see what he says. he was / is a supporting vendor here. I have not seen him on the forum in a long while. iirc both @MrMarty51 and @Big T just purchased new engines from him. I'm sure he will work something out with you on it even if it's out of warranty time.
 
@Quadstar Tuning LLC
Has a remanufactured unit for sale in their website. They would be about the only ones I would trust with such an endeaver.

quadstartuning.com

Remanufactured DS4 Injection Pump

GM DS 6.5L Fuel Injection Pump These pumps go through a thorough re-manufacturing process and get reassembled to OE specifications. Components are completely cleaned, inspected, and tested. Worn or damaged components are replaced with new to ensure maximum quality and longevity (see below for...
quadstartuning.com quadstartuning.com
 
Thanks guys, yes I did talk to him about my truck running bad and e mailed him videos of engine data and w/my truck running badly w/ the new pump on. And he e-mailed me back w/ some suggestions. Yes he seems to be very helpful. He e- mails back all the times I had questions. I’ll send him the videos w/ the original pump on and running. Thanks guys again for all your help. It feels good that I know what the problem was. Can’t wait to start it up cold. Once I get this all ironed out I’ll attack the GP issues and some other upgrades.
 
Goose57 said:
Thanks guys, yes I did talk to him about my truck running bad and e mailed him videos of engine data and w/my truck running badly w/ the new pump on. And he e-mailed me back w/ some suggestions. Yes he seems to be very helpful. He e- mails back all the times I had questions. I’ll send him the videos w/ the original pump on and running. Thanks guys again for all your help. It feels good that I know what the problem was. Can’t wait to start it up cold. Once I get this all ironed out I’ll attack the GP issues and some other upgrades.
Click to expand...
Attack the glow plug issues now or you may never get it to start cold.

Depending on what's in there, you might also risk one of them breaking off and doing damage
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top