• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

GMTD scan tech

Well boys when it rains it pours. Last night I pulled all the GP,s. Bled the FFM and the drain T valve.
Went to crank it click click click batteries charged up did a load test on both batteries good. Gave it on more try and when it clicked I put a wrench on the crank pulley turned it a little and heard the starter drive return back out of the fly wheel did that a few times no luck. Out there today getting ready to pull the starter and I thought I’d give it one more try and it cranked over. Still think there a problem w/the starter. Bad spot on the armature maybe. So with all the GP,s out KO turn the LP on and the
In line fuel gauge pegged. Go figure!!! Bled pressure off through the drain tried it again very little fuel and bubbles in the clear return line at the IP and the in line fuel gauge pegged again. Voltage at the shut off valve pulled it to verify it was working. The IP fuel inlet screen OK. I see fuel below the shut off valve and inlet screen. Pulled the clear line off the return at the IP and blew through it and heard air flowing from where I couldn’t tell by myself. What else could keep the fuel from going through the IP? Could all eight injectors be bad MrMarty51 and not popping off? I guess I can loosen the injector lines at the injectors to see if there is fuel. Shouldn’t I see fuel flowing in the clear fuel return line at the IP w/ the LP energized from the switch ? Also tried cranking it still hardly any fuel at the clear line. There is a little fuel w/ bubbles but why is the inline fuel gauge pegging? I don’t think I have the fuel lines from the FFM routed wrong. The outlet line from the FFM goes directly to the inlet at the IP w/ an inline gauge in it. The drain line at the FFM goes directly to the T valve up by the alternator right? I got the LP from Quadstar last year. Maybe it locked up lol. I message Quadstar support and called John at Quadstar and haven’t heard back. Help guys so discouraged thanks.
 
Well boys when it rains it pours. Last night I pulled all the GP,s. Bled the FFM and the drain T valve.
Went to crank it click click click batteries charged up did a load test on both batteries good. Gave it on more try and when it clicked I put a wrench on the crank pulley turned it a little and heard the starter drive return back out of the fly wheel did that a few times no luck. Out there today getting ready to pull the starter and I thought I’d give it one more try and it cranked over. Still think there a problem w/the starter. Bad spot on the armature maybe. So with all the GP,s out KO turn the LP on and the
In line fuel gauge pegged. Go figure!!! Bled pressure off through the drain tried it again very little fuel and bubbles in the clear return line at the IP and the in line fuel gauge pegged again. Voltage at the shut off valve pulled it to verify it was working. The IP fuel inlet screen OK. I see fuel below the shut off valve and inlet screen. Pulled the clear line off the return at the IP and blew through it and heard air flowing from where I couldn’t tell by myself. What else could keep the fuel from going through the IP? Could all eight injectors be bad MrMarty51 and not popping off? I guess I can loosen the injector lines at the injectors to see if there is fuel. Shouldn’t I see fuel flowing in the clear fuel return line at the IP w/ the LP energized from the switch ? Also tried cranking it still hardly any fuel at the clear line. There is a little fuel w/ bubbles but why is the inline fuel gauge pegging? I don’t think I have the fuel lines from the FFM routed wrong. The outlet line from the FFM goes directly to the inlet at the IP w/ an inline gauge in it. The drain line at the FFM goes directly to the T valve up by the alternator right? I got the LP from Quadstar last year. Maybe it locked up lol. I message Quadstar support and called John at Quadstar and haven’t heard back. Help guys so discouraged thanks.
We also cracked injector lines until we started seeing fuel. Forgot to mention that. My apologies.

A plugged return will cause a no start.

Not turning fast enough, will definitely cause a no start.

If you're running original battery cables, I'd give them a twice over. It'd be a good time to upsize cables with crimed or soldered ends
Cheesy battery cable ends are just begging for future issues.

I've put the load tester on the end of the cable to check cables.

If you go with a Powermaster Starter, they call for a 10 ga exciter wire.
 
you say the fuel gauge is pegged. what is the pressure? on a side note, if you replace the starter, go with a power master starter. don't go get the auto parts replacement. PowerMaster 9052.

This is the starter I have on my truck, others can attest that these are the best that $$ can buy.

 
you say the fuel gauge is pegged. what is the pressure? on a side note, if you replace the starter, go with a power master starter. don't go get the auto parts replacement. PowerMaster 9052.

This is the starter I have on my truck, others can attest that these are the best that $$ can buy.

And made right here in Hellinois

Starting a few years ago, finding quality starters was really a crap shoot.

Our local rebuilders are a crap shoot anymore.

The Powermaster is the only starter l would buy right now.

Order direct from Powermaster or at least call them to verify the seller is legit and you get a warranty. - that you probably will never need.

We live just close enough that we drove there and picked one up.

 
Thanks guys, the pressure is reading 9to 10 psi. I believe it’s a 12 psi gauge. I’m going to put a new gauge in. I’ll get somebody I’m by myself to help me verify the return line is clear back to the tank. It is a new tank sending unit (from Leroy’s) and all new rubber and steel lines. Maybe I pinched a line some where. Will, I will crack some of the injector lines also. Shouldn’t I be able to see fuel in the clear return line without the fuel pressure going that high? I am worried about ruining the new IP. Or am I over thinking this? Yea I plan on a new starter thanks for the suggestions. I will keep you guys posted.
 
And made right here in Hellinois

Starting a few years ago, finding quality starters was really a crap shoot.

Our local rebuilders are a crap shoot anymore.

The Powermaster is the only starter l would buy right now.

Order direct from Powermaster or at least call them to verify the seller is legit and you get a warranty. - that you probably will never need.

We live just close enough that we drove there and picked one up.

I did have to call powermaster when I bought mine. I had seen a lower price on the jungle site and made contact with them about warranty from them when purchased from amazon. they told me I was on my own but recommended me get from Summit as they would honor plus Summit also had a guarantee on it as well. my luck had it as Summit has a warehouse in Texas to shipping was only about 3 days on UPS.
 
I found one on Find IT Parts. Never heard of it. It’s new Delco Remy for $301. I contacted FIP,s they say it a new starter. I can’t believe that. I ask about the warranty and the said the would cover if damaged in shipping and I would have to go through the manufacture for the parts warranty.
 
And made right here in Hellinois

Starting a few years ago, finding quality starters was really a crap shoot.

Our local rebuilders are a crap shoot anymore.

The Powermaster is the only starter l would buy right now.

Order direct from Powermaster or at least call them to verify the seller is legit and you get a warranty. - that you probably will never need.

We live just close enough that we drove there and picked one up.

In the picture the solenoid looks huge does it still fit under the heat shield?
 
I found one on Find IT Parts. Never heard of it. It’s new Delco Remy for $301. I contacted FIP,s they say it a new starter. I can’t believe that. I ask about the warranty and the said the would cover if damaged in shipping and I would have to go through the manufacture for the parts warranty.
Don't do it. They had different grades of starters.

If it's a crappy one, you'd just as well go to Autozone
 
Thanks guys, the pressure is reading 9to 10 psi. I believe it’s a 12 psi gauge. I’m going to put a new gauge in. I’ll get somebody I’m by myself to help me verify the return line is clear back to the tank. It is a new tank sending unit (from Leroy’s) and all new rubber and steel lines. Maybe I pinched a line some where. Will, I will crack some of the injector lines also. Shouldn’t I be able to see fuel in the clear return line without the fuel pressure going that high? I am worried about ruining the new IP. Or am I over thinking this? Yea I plan on a new starter thanks for the suggestions. I will keep you guys posted.
To test the return line for luggage.
Run it to a container from the IP.

You can do that until the machine runs.

If you plug it back in and the machine no longer runs, then you probably have a plugged return.

I seriously doubt that or invented fuel fill cap has anything to do with what you have going on, but I've encountered both issues a couple times each.
 
I just received a e- mail from Michael from Quadstar where I bought the pump. He said the DS4 pump doesn’t like air in the system stop disconnecting the return lines and introducing air it is a self bleed system. The high pressure 9 to 10 psi won’t hurt the pump. He said to run the LP for a few minutes ( like someone said on here) and then crank it over til I get fuel to the injectors. He said you don’t have to crack the injectors. I was probably over thinking this. I’ll keep you posted.
 

Attachments

  • New 9600 starter.txt
    185 bytes · Views: 6
What starter are you looking at? the text file you posted contains a link to ebay which I would not trust to buy a starter. for that price and saying delco I would not trust. there are so many Chineese copies that look and feel like real delco products. if going GM or AC Delco, only get from their authorized retailers. amazon and ebay are not one of them.

if looking at the powermaster. yes the starter looks very different from the original one for both size and shape. the solenoid ends up on the bottom side where the OEM solenoid is up on top. these are gear reduction starters that are very similar to a what a dodge cummins engine uses but with a nose cone designed to fit on the 6.5 and 6.2 diesels.

Here is a couple of photos of my starter mounted up on the engine on the stand for reference.

IMG_4218.jpg
IMG_4222.jpg
 
Back
Top