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GM 6.5 TD engine poof problelm

After charging the batteries for 4 hours last night they topped at 13.03 volts. After sitting all night they leveled out at 12.78 volts.
Here's what I did this morning. Went to controller...had 12.87 in. Had 10.47 out. Can hear the controller click in and out. After the key is off...controller is at 12.69 after finishing test. Also checked for codes- no codes. 15 minutes later checked batteries...now at 12.79.
I've seen the controller at 12 in and 12 out throughout all our conversations. Why does the output keep changing?

I'm still thinking glow plug controller is the problem not putting enough voltage out?

ak diesel driver said "So now would be the time to try extending the glow plug time to see if it helps your issue. The 60Gs take longer to get hot"
What do you guys think of this? Has anyone tried one?
Leroy Diesel has a Glow Plug Override for 6.5TD. http://tinyurl.com/mr2mrfwm

dbrannon79 - you said earlier you put in a time delay relay (where did you purchase it?) and why did you choose to over ride the relay instead of letting it work automatically? Wouldn't that harm the 60G glow plugs?

The engine has always started in 5 seconds which I've continued saying.
 
@Bezzer what year is your RV? I'm asking because I'm curious if the ECM is OBD1 or OBD2. if you want to extend your glow plug time through the ECM I have the equipment to do the older OBD1 systems. only thing is needing a chip and connector to replace the one in your ECM. Since Moates went out of business I have not tried to order from other sources.

I don't charge for this stuff ether. just something I fiddle with from time to time.

Look at your connector under the dash and see what it looks like, OBD1 uses a rectangular 12 pin connector and OBD2 uses a 16 pin connector. if it's OBD2, we will have to find someone who has the equipment to do that.

Here are the two types.

1708371184406.png

1708371087688.png
 
We know the 60G takes longer to get hot and have 100° less over all heat than the 9g do when both are new. But the 9g will fail in a bad way and at minimum be a nightmare to replace, at worse ruin the engine. This is why they stopped making them. Yes the one from Leroy is the best answer to having a manual override. Some people use a momentary switch to ensure it doesn’t accidentally get left on, others wire in a light that comes on as a reminder to turn it off.
Having the ecm reprogrammed for longer glow time definitely makes sense for convenience but costs a few bucks by itself…

There is one other thing people alter the ecm program for-
The GM turbo is too small and restrictive to flow. Better than no turbo but larger ones will improve power, better mpg, lower egt which drops ect and extends engine life. So most owners will replace the turbo. On ds4 equipped rigs- retuning the fueling to match the turbo helps on power and mpg as well. Having the tune made for your desires is best- if you are happy with current power but go to bigger turbo and tune to match it and flatten the fueling out you will still see a small improvement in power but see gains in mpg. @WarWagon was has great example of better turbo paying for itself quickly in savings towing heavy weight-
Then at same time as that reprogramming is done they change the parameters of the glow time.
Don’t just get some off the shelf tune- most guys are after bumps in power and do it to a level that looses mpg and the glow time remains unchanged. I don’t know any rv owners that want To see a drop in mpg, usually the opposite.
 
As for glow plug time, I found on my truck after installing the 60g glow plugs, 8 seconds of run time was optimal and it started just fine. before I was able to reprogram my ECM, I installed a time delay relay which turned on and stayed on for the 8 seconds each time the key was turned on. this worked fine for me. the relay I purchased from amazon and has a digital display to be programmed for the desired amount of time.

Now I have this same relay installed in my 93 truck since the ECM no longer controls anything on the engine. it's all mechanical.
 
Thanks again guys for writing back! Will L + dbrannon79: I don't want to get too heavy into what changes you both wrote about at this time.
WarWagon: I checked the OBD2 port and found no codes and if there is an electrical problem it should show a code....and there is a code for that.
dbrannon79: I do have a OBD2 port.

I started it up yesterday afternoon. The batteries have 12.80 volts....and it started much faster than it has been. Did get a small pop out the tail pipe and a very small noise on the passenger side. I believe now that I have the batteries fully charged and that has made a difference in starting up and helping along with the glow plug problem.

We'll be taking the motorhome out for a run in a few days and let you know the outcome.
 
As for starting, just a suggestion, next time you need to replace the starter, go with a powermaster brand gear reduction starter. it's a baby in size compared to the OEM one and will spin that engine over twice as fast as the OEM. I put one on my truck and it sounds like how a 24valve Cummins cranks but man does it fire up quick! there a little pricy compared to OEM but it's one of those things buy once, cry once, and done!
 
Bezzer said:
if there is an electrical problem it should show a code
Click to expand...

No. Primitive Artificial Stupidity computer is programmed to ignore intermittent problems to reduce warranty claims and difficult to track down problems.

If you have TWO Volts across the two glow plug terminals when it's on, and you need to check exactly this, then it's a problem: loose connection or pitted and burned relay contactor .
 
dbrannon79 said:
As for starting, just a suggestion, next time you need to replace the starter, go with a powermaster brand gear reduction starter. it's a baby in size compared to the OEM one and will spin that engine over twice as fast as the OEM. I put one on my truck and it sounds like how a 24valve Cummins cranks but man does it fire up quick! there a little pricy compared to OEM but it's one of those things buy once, cry once, and done!
Click to expand...
I have one as well but haven’t installed it as of yet.Just bought it as a backup.
 
dbrannon79: You're right about the power master brand gear reduction starter. I have one on my Ford 408 stroker that dyno-ed at 514 hp...works great.

WarWagon: I've written to Standard Motor Products about my glow plug controller- waiting to hear back.

Big T: We still don’t have a video? As I've stated before - I have no way of making a video for you.
Glows tested outside and they glowed? Bench tested all 8 and they glowed perfect.
Still betting on leaking injectors allowing air into the system? Will call on you if I decided to bleed injectors.
 
a side note: always make absolutely sure the small bracket is installed and secure on the back side of the starter for these engines. if not, the amount of torque the starter makes can and will break bolts and the block! my 95 truck is living proof for block damage from a missing starter bracket. the previous owner neglected to inform me about the damage which he had welding done on the block. it's still alive and kicking but it's a ticking time bomb for when that weld repair lets loose off the cast iron.

Here is photos of the damage on my block.

IMG_4226.jpg
IMG_4228.jpg
IMG_4227.jpg
 
dbrannon79 said:
a side note: always make absolutely sure the small bracket is installed and secure on the back side of the starter for these engines. if not, the amount of torque the starter makes can and will break bolts and the block! my 95 truck is living proof for block damage from a missing starter bracket. the previous owner neglected to inform me about the damage which he had welding done on the block. it's still alive and kicking but it's a ticking time bomb for when that weld repair lets loose off the cast iron.

Here is photos of the damage on my block.

View attachment 86353
View attachment 86351
View attachment 86352
Click to expand...
I have thought about them busted out starter bolt drillings.
I believe that 3/8ths inch could be machined from the starter surface of the block.
A piece of 3/8ths flat stock cut and carved to fit the shape of the block.
Holes bored to bolt the starter to then tapped.
Two more holes bored and countersunk for counter sink screws. That piece set onto the block and the two countersink holes marked and drilled then tapped.
Two counter sink screws bolted to the block, or if there is room, three counter sink screws could be used and I think the block could be used for many years with such a repair.
At least stock starters would be able to be used.
 
dbrannon79 said:
a side note: always make absolutely sure the small bracket is installed and secure on the back side of the starter for these engines. if not, the amount of torque the starter makes can and will break bolts and the block! my 95 truck is living proof for block damage from a missing starter bracket. the previous owner neglected to inform me about the damage which he had welding done on the block. it's still alive and kicking but it's a ticking time bomb for when that weld repair lets loose off the cast iron.

Here is photos of the damage on my block.

View attachment 86353
View attachment 86351
View attachment 86352
Click to expand...
I have thought about them busted out starter bolt drillings.
I believe that 3/8ths inch could be machined from the starter surface of the block.
A piece of 3/8ths flat stock cut and carved to fit the shape of the block.
Holes bored to bolt the starter to then tapped.
Two more holes bored and countersunk for counter sink screws. That piece set onto the block and the two countersink holes marked and drilled then tapped.
Two counter sink screws bolted to the block, or if there is room, three counter sink screws could be used and I think the block could be used for many years with such a repair.
At least stock starters would be able to be used.
 
it would have been nice if GM had done a three bolt starter for these engines. GM small blocks use a starter bolt pattern that is straight across, others use the diagonal like ours do. if Gm had used all three bolt holes I think this issue would possibly have been eliminated.

@dieselolds I might one day need to do this. this engine runs perfect, has a little blow by but doesn't use oil like the 93 does. one of these days when I find the need to have to pull this engine, I think I will first check the block for main web cracking, if it's good, I would want to sent it to a machine shop and see if they could perform a miracle on it LOL
 
I had a 599 engine that ran great at one time but the outer bolt hole was repaired by welding and whoever repaired it did a very nice job on it.I sold that engine for $400 to a guy and some time later the crank broke off in it because the webs let go I’m thinking.I didn’t pull the pan to check for cracks but that’s my assumption.
 
Back again Fellows: I changed out the glow plug relay .... I now get the correct battery readings in and out which are the same. They read 12.80 Volts in and out. Boy! Does it start fast! Also bought a 4 amp battery charger/maintainer for the (two) 12 volt starting batteries. They are connected in parallel to keep them charged. Really works great.

Now the bad news... I still have the pop at the tail pipe and passenger side. Went out for a drive and it ran great as always.

Where do I go next?
Starting #1. I guess the next procedure will be checking the air in the system? How do you do that?

#2. I've read somewhere about changing a black hose to a clear hose? (or hoses?) Where is this black hose they're talking about?

#3. I found the steel fuel lines to the injectors. If I need to bleed them...it looks like it's right close to the glow plugs. Also how do I check for the leaking injector that someone suggested? If that's right I will need to take the wheels off and all the rest of the crap again....LOL
 
The clear hose: replace the ip return line with clear. The 1/4” hose out the front of the ip in an upside U shape. Here is the ideal hose. https://fuel-line.com/collections/fuel-line/products/1-4-fast-flow-fuel-line-1
Otherwise some that will last about 4 years is at hardware store. Its all sold by the foot. buy one foot cut in half.

Getting a trapped bubble in there is normal. If you see any frequency of bubbles flowing through- that is a problem to chase.
I red circled the hose in your picture, then other picture is zoomed in with the white arrow pointing at it.IMG_0242.jpegIMG_0243.jpeg
 
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