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Fun with Ted, Todd, Bill and Paul…Resurrecting an Ultimate Rebuild.

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Ted updated me on a few things today.
1. The price of the machinists work included all the stuff from before and after we found out the pistons were crap necessitating the new Mahle ones and the rebalancing of the rotating assembly. That was a break and worth waiting for...well, kinda worth waiting for.
2. Bill's Red truck has the performance cam installed so once it is buttoned up, Bill will be able to keep up with Joe's green truck without Joe having to either drive in reverse or push it.
3. That means my truck is next in line with the engine assembly starting rather soon. Once it is at the point that the parts off my motor are needed to finish the build, then, of course, mine gets torn down. Injectors, Glow Plugs, IP and Lines, Water Pump, Starter, etc. May go with HO injectors. I have a set of core's here with crap nozzles I could get rebuilt at the local shop Orionthade and I share. Good people.
4. Not certain but I think I'm still waiting for a cam to come in from the grinder and delivery of my Fluid Dampener HB.

For the curious, here's the punch list and specifications for the block and rotating assembly performed by the Machinist. I hate to admit, a lot of it is simply 'dolphin-speak' to me.

Punch List

Chemical Clean Block
Bore Cyl Block .010 .0027 Clearance With Torque
Install Main Studs, True Linebore
Surface Block .010
Install Pin Bushings, Fit Pins, .0004 Clear, Check Alignment
Assemble Pistons On Rods
Hone Block
True Big End Of Rods
Balance Crank Assembly, Stock Balancer
Install Cam Bearing, Fit Cam
SH1366S Cam Bearings

Specifications:
Rod Rotating-714gr
Rod Reciprocating-332
Rod Bearings-57gr
Oil Allowance-6gr
Pistons, Pin, And Rings-1295gr
Locks-4gr
Bobweight Total-3179gr
Piston Assembly And Rod Reciprocating End Balanced Together


I'm just happy it is done and the build will begin soon.

I just compared our two balancing info specs, I don't quite understand yours, it's written up a little different than mine is, and did they carry your numbers past the decimal point or round them off?? And I don't remember if your motor is a GM or a GEP motor, I know that this one of mine, a GEP, everything is heavier, I compared rods between this and older GM and the GEP's are heavier??? And I would have thought that with me using the machined Kennedy pistons that they would have been lighter, but I can't really see the break down on your weights, maybe it's just me?? Yours is a lighter bob weight than mine is, still not that far off, there is 453.592 grams to 1 pound......
 
I didn't remember that, guess I should go back and read....

No worries, there's a lot to go back over and with the way I write, I can't blame you. I also failed to account for the differences between 6.2 and 6.5.

I had issues comparing the yours and mine as well to make sure I wasn't comparing apples and oranges but by comparing weights I was pretty sure I had it right. I'm pretty sure my numbers were rounded off unless the machinist decided after finding the object with the lowest weight to then take that one and the rest down to an even number...doubtful. But I'm not sure what the original sheets says cause it was hand jammed on to an email for me and I didn't get the individual piston, pin, or ring weights.

I tried to type up the comparisons here but the spaces to make columns line up didn't translate so here's a PDF of the comparisons.
I've used verbiage from both machinists.

View attachment Side By Side with Sctrailrider.pdf
 
That is close, it does look look yours were rounded off, either way, close. Did your man say anything about what RPM range you would max ?? Mine had a space for that in the P/C program also, I used 3500-4000 max, Like I said, I don't know what all info the program needs to do the job, I just answered questions.... I know that my pistons didn't need anything, they were within 1gr of each other, the rods were really bad out, crank was drilled in 3 places, flywheel & pressure plate is a new south bend, the flywheel needed drilling also...
 
That is close, it does look look yours were rounded off, either way, close. Did your man say anything about what RPM range you would max ?? Mine had a space for that in the P/C program also, I used 3500-4000 max, Like I said, I don't know what all info the program needs to do the job, I just answered questions.... I know that my pistons didn't need anything, they were within 1gr of each other, the rods were really bad out, crank was drilled in 3 places, flywheel & pressure plate is a new south bend, the flywheel needed drilling also...

He didn't say but knows that my potential shift points would be up to 4600rpm and worked accordingly.

It is killing me that I'm not up there to see what's happening. The plan was to be over and done with by April but that obviously didn't happen. Then I got hired on to a great job which turned out to be a good thing with all the surprises showing up. Too bad I'm not on some assignment in Yakima on the Firing Range...oh well. Can't have it all and I'm not experienced enough to build this motor the way it needs to be done. I'm bringing the old one home though and will be learning on it. I digress, as usual. Time in the shop is the enemy now and so I'm being patient. As it turns out, 635 will be doing a lot of the wrenching (which is a great thing) and he'll have some adult supervision throughout the process. There's been a lot of mixed blessing with this build and even the delays have turned out to be, in hind sight, a very very good thing.
 
I hope its in when I get there. Well that is if I can find a wsy thru the mtns instead of over them! It would be awesome to ride in it!!!!
 
Assembly starts on Monday as there is another motor currently attached to the heavy engine stand. That motor is to be picked up on Saturday.

Bill estimates it will take about two weeks to build it and get it in the truck. Rods & Pistons are assembled already by the Machinist (thanks Rich) so the assy should go fairly quickly. Two weeks may seem like a long time but he's fielding phone calls non-stop while supervising the shop and then there's the build. Good thing Ted is there to ensure some semblance of adult supervision. I sent a phone up there for them to capture the build so I'll post those up as soon as I catch up to the camera and the truck.
In an ideal world the flow will go as follows:
1. New Engine is assembled
2. Old motor is pulled
3. Engine bay is cleaned and RaamAudio sound deadening materials affixed to fire wall (two layers).
4. Old engine is scavenged of water pump, starter, injectors and IP. Old lines are chucked for new ones ordered last week.
5. Motor is completed and dropped in.
6. Ted will make a 1000 mile run in it.
7. OAB 2 August, I'll pick it up and make some runs around the area to get feeling and make any tuning adjustments.
8. Beat feet homeward (maybe stop in Boise and observe the Idaho Diesel Dyno on the 4th if schedule allows).

I'll get confirmation from Bill before ordering plane tickets though...things happen you know.
 
On #8, instead of observing, how about stunning the crap out of them and entering a 6.5 that can compete against them? Maybe not in sled pull, but drags and dyno may just change a few opinions about the 6.5!
 
On #8, instead of observing, how about stunning the crap out of them and entering a 6.5 that can compete against them? Maybe not in sled pull, but drags and dyno may just change a few opinions about the 6.5!
Sure, what the hell, it'll be broke in and shaken down by then...:D
Show 'em how it's done Paul!:thumbsup:
Take vids too!


:hihi: :rof:
 
Remember the geico pig with the pin wheels screaming "WEEEEEEE!!!!"? That would be the perfect place.

Don't forget the part about "...pure adrenaline..."
 
On #8, instead of observing, how about stunning the crap out of them and entering a 6.5 that can compete against them? Maybe not in sled pull, but drags and dyno may just change a few opinions about the 6.5!

Husker, that isn't 6.5, it is just a little 6.2 30 over. And even at a thousand plus miles the engine won't be broke in enough for hard pulls. But it isn't my engine any more, it is Paul's and if he wants to hit the rollers it will be up to him. I would wait for at least 6K before really running it hard. Also the shift points will probably end up a little higher than what Paul stated, it should be spinning over 5K. I've had a few conversations with the engine builder and the cam designer. With those big free breathing heads, intake, and exhaust manifolds that little 4x4 1/2 ton will really end up hauling the mail!
 
WRT #8. NO play. If one of you want to dyno a motor with only 1000 miles on it, you go right ahead and post the video too (good one Mike).:D

As I've stated, I do have plans for the Dyno but it certainly won't be done at 1000 miles. I do have a little something in mind come October that won't call for the hard pulling off the line but will let me see what it's potential is in the long run, but that will be another thread...more to follow.;)
 
Would it have anything to do with cold October air about 4,200 feet elevation?
You know #$%^& well what it means. Don't tease and please don't High-jack the build thread.:nonod:
:85:
No wait, this is your thread too...so to answer your question :Justwait2:

:popcorn:

:rof:
 
Yeah, 635's post caught my attention too. I didn't know that little tidbit until I read that. Wow. and yet, capability is one thing but I'll never intentionally spin it that high. Programmed shift points will be 4600 max and I really don't plan on reaching that too often either. Yeah, there will be a pecker contest or two with other trucks I'm sure and then things might get entertaining:hihi:....
 
So maybe I was a bit premature with the face off, break it in first THEN surprise the hell out of a lot of people with a 6.2/6.5 family motor that everyone who thinks they know what they're talking about calls a dog motor!
 
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