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Found a k3500 ecdrw

I am in the process of fixing 7 holes in each front door of my crew cab. I got a set of four almost new doors for nearly nothing, but the guy wanted to keep the stainless west coast mirrors. I'm wondering if I should have just bought new doors for all the hassle these doors have been. They had fancy lettering all over them, I used stripper, D/A, industrial stripper, everything to tear that crap off. D/A with 36 grit came closest to working. Now I'm trying to build it up with primer to get ready for paint. Well, once I fill 14 holes that is.
 
the dually looks awesome! As far as wheels, go alcoa aluminum! looks awesome, and reduce weight, rather than add, like simulators do.

what's wrong with weight? I like weight. I'm usually trying to weigh my truck down, not lighten it. Sprung weight, unsprung weight, it's all good!
 
Hey Kenny, back to the headlight thing: I've had complaints about my headlights since day one. I've replaced them with new, tried all kinds of bulbs, and buffed the lenses a couple times. Try to look thru the lens, if the chrome plating is bad on the reflector, don't waste your time polishing the lenses. I have been tempted several times to get the euro style diamond cut whatever, but no one could assure me they were better than the computer designed factory light refracting lens. About the only thing I've been happy with is some cheap ebay HIDs and a high output headlight harness. My low beams are sick now, I have Silverstar ultras in my high beams and the HIDs make them look dim and yellow. Going to change the high beams to HID soon.
 
THose ultrasuperblinding bright HIgh Intesndity D's :)

Newest/expensive cars come with these, you see them a mile away coming at you and god bless you if you look into the light in the night time.
 
What is HID ?

Make you realising you have lights on your rig intead of candles, especially when driving in rainy nights :D

Those kits are plug & play, using stock harness. Take good care of polarities : if the ballast doesn't start, just rotate the plug 180°, reconnect and it will fire.
Pay special attention to have good grounds too.

I had low & high beam kits on my rig. A true night and day difference.

I have one H4 kit on my Zuki too.

The only problem on my Chevy was when switching from low to high. A HID bulb needs about 10 seconds to warm and be fully functional.
So, when you go from low to high, you're blind during 10 seconds. Very funny ):h

The solution was the Hi/Low beam kit from M. Tail Light which keep your low beam on, while you're swaping to High beam. 4 HID bulbs on at the same time : sun on the road :thumbsup:

Prefer the kits with slim ballasts. They are a bit more pricey than stock ones, but they light bulbs faster...

8000°K produce a nice blueish light, but remember, the more blue you go, the more blind you will be under rainy conditions.

From my own experience, the range between 4300°K (sun light) to 6000°K (polar white) offer the best performance.

Average, a 35W HID kit will produce about the same amount of light than stock bulbs, while being a lot more bright and comfortable, a 55W HID kit will produce as much as 115~130W stock bulbs, and always very clear.

To get an idea of what HID can offer you, have a look at these new Audi, BMW or Range Rover lights...
 
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I would paint those wheels gloss black then put the beauty rings and center caps back on. Looks gorgeous that way. I am doing that to my 82 dually, I think it looks way better than simulators. If you do buy simulators get the bolt on kind. The snap on ones fly off. And get stainless, the chrome plated ones aren't worth a damn. Somebody around here had some sick aftermarket dually wheels on craigslist for $400, they were on there forever. I can check, see if I can find them again.

I like the step bars, just got some for mine recently. I was lucky, they came off a truck with a bodylift, and the guy had modified the mounts so they look right, not hanging way down.

I'm liking that truck a lot. Personally I much prefer the Chevy grille, especially during those years, but it's a matter of preference I guess. I think the chrome makes it look more classy, and the GMC grill makes it look more like a plain old work truck.

Ive been going back and forth with the grille thing for a while now. Ive got the WT grill on my 96 and cant decide what to do. I always hated it, but ive actually come to kinda like it. Looks kinda aggressive, but at the same time "plain old work truck." Ive seriously been considering the gmc grill though. Very classy look IMO.

As for the wheels....im not really a fan of the black paint on the srw trucks, but the dually's look sweet with it!
 
and just a note on lights....I saw matuva had mentioned Mr. Taillight. Im not so sure he is in buisiness anymore. Ordered circuit boards for the rear taillights as well as a high beam kit but nothing ever shipped. Credit card got charged, then I recieved an email saying "sorry for the delay, health issues. Will send parts soon". Well we canceled the payment with the card but I still never recieved the circut boards. This was about a little less then a year ago. Dont know if anyone has done buisiness with them since.

So just a heads up for anyone
 
I dont like the blinding lights or the bluish ones either. the blue ones dont even throw much light on the ground, even though they are supposedly higher powered. I forget what mine are, probably 6k iirc. You can tell they are HIDs from a distance but not retarded bright. The ones that are blinding you are the nitwits that buy the 12-24k kits. They aren't legal but pretty hard to measure them. Guy around here has them in his low beams and fogs on a new superduty, drives around in the daytime with them all on and it actually blinds you.
I was a little worried at first, but I have yet to have anybody flash their high beams at me so I guess I'm not blinding anyone. Would never have done it except for always being dissatisfied with my stock lights. My company car and the wifes truck have great stock lights. Plus I drive some really dark country roads a lot at night, hardly even see any traffic.
And oh yeah, I have the all 4 on hi mod, did that first to try to correct the faint lighting.
 
I love it when a'hole try and blind me in the CUCV. I put the truck in Blackout and then flip 1,000,0000 candle power worth of KC's....:devil:
 
are there any kits to fit the mirrors off of the like 06 duramax on this style of truck they are nice and big slide out when towing and are nice when just driving
 
well, I busted out on the truck today. The Downpipe must have been patched. The studs on the Pass side manifld all broke whiich tuned out to be a good thing since apparently it was leaking ex. The downpipe was loose as well and even the Turbo flange looked like it was leaking a bit so I tossed that Maniold and used the one I had gotten for the cucv. I have anew one on order but who knows when it will get here. On a side note The Pass manifolds ARE NOT all the same. The one I had all the bolts were the same size. The spare one I used the front 3 bolts are shorter. Doesn't appear to matter and fits fine but I had to scare up some shorter bolts. Kitty lost some weight. Catectomy sucessful. Got the pass injs and glows done. I hate to say it but the truck started rreally good on the WAP's the guy put in and they looked fine when I took them out. maybe they fixed the problem with the swelling. DK but I put duratherms in. If it wasn't mothers day I would have stayed out there all night and finished it. Tommorow(hopefully) I got the drivers side injs and glows to do and that should be it. I also used an ex manifold gasket on the pass side since the head looks slightly pitted. I used a gasket on the turbo as well(Thanks Tim). Funny I remembered to put the shield on first this time but forgot to put the oil drain tube so I had to pull the manifold again:suicide:

So Got my new flowmaster crossover and downpipe. BTW Flowmaster must have fixed their crossovers. The last couple I had gotten needed a little wrestling. This one went right on. figures, I studed the manifolds in anticipation of that. So hopefully tommorow I can do the otherside and run it.
 

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Oh I forgot to add, While the manifold was off I tapped it with 1/8 npt and put a brass plug in for future EGT gauge.Here's the flowmaster crossover and DP. Awesome deal for 115$.
 

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im getting close to putting the manifolds back on the motor for my 93 and think im ganna go with stainless. where there any that would be better with studs im betting i can get them at one of the fastner supplieres in omaha
 
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