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Finally injection pump leak detected

panran

Active Member
Messages
76
Reaction score
175
Location
Colorado high plains 6300 feet
Towed the truck to Colorado finally and now can work on it again. Stanadyne DB4 injection pump never could stop the bubbles in return line but finally tracked down the source after removing the lower intake a dozen times. Replaced lines to and from ffm and also replaced ffm housing because the water fuel sensor looked cracked exposing wires but turns out wasn’t leaking. Turns out it coming from under the injection pump. Had the hard lines off a couple of times thinking maybe I didn’t get them tight enough now they have become easy to deal with. So finally used folded paper towel 1 inch at a time starting at hard line and moving towards the front and then it showed up. So I am going to post a pic and if someone can tell me what kind or if I can get a replacement gasket without purchasing a whole gasket kit which is $100+. Thanks panran ps the part screwed in at bottom of pic
 

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Maybe have saved you the cost of a gasket kit but, maybe not to your advantage.
Unless I'm mistaken, that is the 'advance cover assy. There's a seal under there, not a gasket and, of course, it's a unique one.
No idea where to source one. I'll keep looking through the manual to see if it could be something else. Hang in there.
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Maybe have saved you the cost of a gasket kit but, maybe not to your advantage.
Unless I'm mistaken, that is the 'advance cover assy. There's a seal under there, not a gasket and, of course, it's a unique one.
No idea where to source one. I'll keep looking through the manual to see if it could be something else. Hang in there.
View attachment 90167
Very much appreciated…thank you for the time. Sincerely panran
 
I believe that @Quadstar Tuning LLC has the gasket/seal kits available for both styles of pumps.
But as stated, next to $100.00.
 
Thanks for looking. I did see some for around $55-$60 bucks and they want $20 for shipping and the weight of the package 1lb….they call them aftermarket which probably most are…which I would go with but while looking at the pictures I don’t see any that resembles that gasket (seal)I thought it was mentioned to be keyhole shaped seal…..me being an old man knew exactly what that shape looks like growing up in the 50’s most of the doors had those shaped locks and they took what was called a skeleton key…but fail to see a seal that has that shape..if anyone knows that the kit has one let me know and I will get it. I’m unsure if I want pull the IP to check it out closer and not be able to find the correct parts…the truck is outside near the barn and the area is “high plains” called “Palmer Divide” and the wind is always blowing with winter about on us thinking every intake exhaust and fluid opening will probably take in snow. Sorry I woke up after a nap and rambling but after long story in short would like to just have all the gaskets and seals that will do the job just don’t see a seal that looks like that in the kit. Unless it’s coming from another gasket but it’s right in that area..the advance stepper motor is right there..wondering if that has a gasket that could be leaking down on that area..nothing shows on the upper area.. anyhow I’m a one finger at a time texter and it’s after 1am time for bed…thanks
 
Alright holding off on ordering the DB4 injection pump rebuild kit 33702 because I fail to see the seal I think I need..no way I’m going to rebuild the pump but looking to replace what I think is leaking…posting a pic of the seal that might be leaking and the rebuild kit…am I missing something??
 

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The kit for $78.00 that I posted the link to on post number 6 I believe has the seal that You are looking for.
IMG_0892.png

When posting a picture, after the picture is downloaded there will be a message over the image that says INSERT, tap or click that Insert then a menu will pop down, tap full image, then the full image will be posted as in the above image.
I know $78.00 is a chunk of money for no more of the kit than a person needs but if it keeps the pump from leaking for anotther 100,000 miles then in my mind I think, well I guess it might be okay. 🤷
 
Well got my injection pump rebuild seal gasket kit…whoa intimidating soo many parts..thanks MrMarty51 for the link has the keyhole gasket (seal) in the kit…pulled the injection pump this afternoon…and also thanks to Paveltolz for pointing me in the right direction, I was at a loss thinking how to pay for a replacement pump, but looks like the it’s leaking from that part…I’ll post a couple of pics and would appreciate feedback…I would never attempt to rebuild the whole pump unless I had time and a spare pump to experiment on…but seasons are changing so I’m thinking if it ain’t broke..any advice appreciated and if anyone pulled this part before and could advise me thank you.
 

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Yes. The db4 is a fully mechanical pump used in boats, and in extreme built hot rod engines with giant turbos, that you never expect to last much over 75,000 miles.

There is a number plate on your pump. Show pics from multiple angles with thr whole pump in view and we can show you your pump number on it.

I can see from this picture alone you have a DS pump not a DB pump. The part I Highlighted yellow…

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DB pumps don’t have wires coming out the back through the rubber boot.
They have a metal cone and that is where they intake the fuel.

This one is a DB with the same spot highlighted yellow where the fuel comes in, not wires. There is no rubber boot on the DB pumps. IMG_1818.jpeg
 
Exactly.
Now something that will help for all the future posts is filling out your signature line.

Rig -make model year, engine, injection pump, any modifications done.
Imagine you try some off brand injector return hoses or lift pump that are cheap or expensive- list them. Then 5 years from now when there is a problem- we see that automatically each post. You aren’t understanding what’s happening with the rig but we can at a glance know “he has those plastic return lines” and mention check them when you might have forgotten them or not realize they could be part of the issue. Also if we see you been running them 5 years and we are using the stock ones- we can ask “hey how are those holding up?” And you can help us.

Say the lift pump is a $20 special or a $2,000 king of the hill pump and added the fuel pressure gauge . We can read it and remind you- did you check the pressure while it is cutting out or figure out fuel pressure isn’t your issue because you have a gauge mounted on the dash and the wazoo pumps are basically a forever part.

In rigs that aren’t regular pickups (like mine) people list what Injection pump, turbo, etc they have. I am rebuilding my engine and when completed will list all the aftermarket stuff just for that reason. Like I am dropping compression from the 21.2:1 down to 18:1. And in 200,000 miles if it is having a hard time starting- and I’m not figured out why- guys hear will see the lower compression and remind me- “hey Will, check your compression” or my kids who get the rig when I die- they’ll have no clue but everyone here will help them and walk them through. But if they don’t have the aftermarket changes- they won’t realize the lower compression number from the beginning is normal for my build.
 
Okay replace the seal on the injection pump and put it back on the truck yesterday…no more river in the valley and no more air in the clear return line…BIG shout out for the help on identifying the leak and also the injection pump rebuild kit…My eyes are tired of reading..can anyone tell me why I’m not getting fuel to the injectors they are on hand tight and backed off about a turn and nothing coming out…I cranked it over about 10 times yesterday and about 7 times today and no fuel..so do I have to crank it more or it being a ds4 ip could it be an electronic issue.. I have 2 pmd’s that came with the truck but have no idea if they are good so that is why I am wondering if that will tell the ip not to send fuel or should it be sending fuel no matter what?
 
If the IP drained out the fuel it does take a decent amount of cranking to get it all primed and up where the injector lines are pushing fuel. might be easier on you, your batteries, and the starter to pull out the GP's from the block, leave the injector lines loose and crank away.
 
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