panran
Active Member
Thanks I’ll try that tomorrow…glad to know that It’s not electronic
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It could also.be electronic.Thanks I’ll try that tomorrow…glad to know that It’s not electronic
I've never installed a starter on one of these in.30 minutesImo remove the glow plugs, unplug the control wire clip to the glow relay.
It lets the engine spin fast and helps prime everything easier.
When you see mist of fuel coming out the glow holes- you are ready to start.
Remember when cranking 30-6 rule
30 seconds on, 30 seconds off
30 seconds on, 30 seconds off
30 seconds on, 30 MINUTES off
Or you spend the next 30 minutes removing the starter, 30 minutes buying a new one, and 30 minutes installing it.
If the wires touch something while energized there will get some fireworks.Thanks.. I almost pulled the glow plugs so turning the motor over would be easier when screwing in the timing gear but just went for 24mm on the balancer..the question that came to my mind since I don’t have the glow plugs attached to the wire am I at risk of any damage didn’t hook them up because I wanted to make sure I had fuel delivery before since I have been struggling for a while with the air in fuel line..starter is pretty heavy almost pulled in when I first got the truck but luckily got the flywheel to turn manually after a few days… thanks again
If it were me, have a new, or absolutely for certain good PMD on the connector.Okay replace the seal on the injection pump and put it back on the truck yesterday…no more river in the valley and no more air in the clear return line…BIG shout out for the help on identifying the leak and also the injection pump rebuild kit…My eyes are tired of reading..can anyone tell me why I’m not getting fuel to the injectors they are on hand tight and backed off about a turn and nothing coming out…I cranked it over about 10 times yesterday and about 7 times today and no fuel..so do I have to crank it more or it being a ds4 ip could it be an electronic issue.. I have 2 pmd’s that came with the truck but have no idea if they are good so that is why I am wondering if that will tell the ip not to send fuel or should it be sending fuel no matter what?
No . Turning the key to run, is just to open the fuel shut down solenoid.I pulled the guts on the fuel solenoid while struggling with air in the fuel line…do I still need to leave the key on?
Bumper on My truck is a handmade unit. There is no holes for improved draft.remove the resistor from the PMD and put it inside the connector of the extension where the PMD connected at when it was on the IP. this way you will never have to worry about it again. also install the rest of the bolts holding the lower intake for safety. if it does run away with only the outer 4 bolts holding it you will never be able to shut it down. it will suck the intake gasket in and keep on running away!
if your extension is long enough, move the PMD to the hole in the front bumper with the fins of the heat sink facing the open hole to catch wind on the road. that so far is the best location getting it completely out of the engine compartment.
I have yet to need the swollen GP extractor tool that Leroy sells, but, for some odd reason, last night I ordered one.Hit a little snag today, yesterday woke up and 10 degree wind chill and snowing so didn’t work on the truck….today bolted and torqued the lower intake down and removed 6 glow plugs but the other 2 are swelled up on the passenger side.. I forgot that I had left that side plugged in so then I put the other 6 back in and stuffed rags in the exhaust ports and coolant openings because we are getting snow the rest of the week and the wind is always blowing…so any tips on getting the 2 swollen plugs out.. sprayed pb blaster and tried working them out by twisting but noticed the threads were getting damaged, I do have them unscrewed all the way and I see they make a tool to pull them but might have damaged threads a little…so any old school methods?