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Finally injection pump leak detected

Imo remove the glow plugs, unplug the control wire clip to the glow relay.

It lets the engine spin fast and helps prime everything easier.
When you see mist of fuel coming out the glow holes- you are ready to start.

Remember when cranking 30-6 rule
30 seconds on, 30 seconds off
30 seconds on, 30 seconds off
30 seconds on, 30 MINUTES off

Or you spend the next 30 minutes removing the starter, 30 minutes buying a new one, and 30 minutes installing it.
 
Will L. said:
Imo remove the glow plugs, unplug the control wire clip to the glow relay.

It lets the engine spin fast and helps prime everything easier.
When you see mist of fuel coming out the glow holes- you are ready to start.

Remember when cranking 30-6 rule
30 seconds on, 30 seconds off
30 seconds on, 30 seconds off
30 seconds on, 30 MINUTES off

Or you spend the next 30 minutes removing the starter, 30 minutes buying a new one, and 30 minutes installing it.
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I've never installed a starter on one of these in.30 minutes
 
Thanks.. I almost pulled the glow plugs so turning the motor over would be easier when screwing in the timing gear but just went for 24mm on the balancer..the question that came to my mind since I don’t have the glow plugs attached to the wire am I at risk of any damage didn’t hook them up because I wanted to make sure I had fuel delivery before since I have been struggling for a while with the air in fuel line..starter is pretty heavy almost pulled in when I first got the truck but luckily got the flywheel to turn manually after a few days… thanks again
 
panran said:
Thanks.. I almost pulled the glow plugs so turning the motor over would be easier when screwing in the timing gear but just went for 24mm on the balancer..the question that came to my mind since I don’t have the glow plugs attached to the wire am I at risk of any damage didn’t hook them up because I wanted to make sure I had fuel delivery before since I have been struggling for a while with the air in fuel line..starter is pretty heavy almost pulled in when I first got the truck but luckily got the flywheel to turn manually after a few days… thanks again
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If the wires touch something while energized there will get some fireworks.

I jumper the lift pump so it runs constantly and leve the key on run so the fuel solenoid stays open
 
I would get a replacement solenoid. yes with a DS4 electronic injection pump, the engine will "turn off" when you turn the key off, BUT... if ever the IP goes fubar you have no way to stop the fuel going to the injectors. Heck I might even be incorrect that the power off to the electronics will still stop the engine. others can help with that.

just for safety, once you have the injectors pushing fuel, pull the air filter rubber boot out of the way and have clear access to the turbo inlet. get you a board that will cover the opening and have it ready in case it doesn't shut down by the key. this is the ONLY way to stop a runaway engine but you have to act quick!
 
panran said:
Okay replace the seal on the injection pump and put it back on the truck yesterday…no more river in the valley and no more air in the clear return line…BIG shout out for the help on identifying the leak and also the injection pump rebuild kit…My eyes are tired of reading..can anyone tell me why I’m not getting fuel to the injectors they are on hand tight and backed off about a turn and nothing coming out…I cranked it over about 10 times yesterday and about 7 times today and no fuel..so do I have to crank it more or it being a ds4 ip could it be an electronic issue.. I have 2 pmd’s that came with the truck but have no idea if they are good so that is why I am wondering if that will tell the ip not to send fuel or should it be sending fuel no matter what?
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If it were me, have a new, or absolutely for certain good PMD on the connector.
I have found that even with fuel at the IP, it still takes a lot of cranking before fuel emits from the injector connection nuts.
 
Thanks that eases my mind knowing it takes a lot of cranking…and thanks for warning about runaway, the engine is pretty stripped down with upper intake 4 bolts holding it and a 2x12 x12” ready in case…once it gets fuel I will start adding parts if I hear it run starting with harmonic balancer.
 
I will put the solenoid back together..it was working and if it doesn’t work I’ll get new one along with a Pmd the 2 I have one has a resistor and one doesn’t and heat sink bolted to upper intake …I miss printed I only have the lower intake with 4 bolts attached waiting on fuel to the injectors to move on.
 
Confirm all the grounds are attached at the back of the lower intake manifold, passenger side. Two of them (one brown and white, the other black) provide the grounds for the ECM. No grounds, no ECM commands to tell the PMD what to do.
FWIW PMD heat sink attached to the upper intake is only slightly better than leaving the PMD on the Injection Pump.
 
remove the resistor from the PMD and put it inside the connector of the extension where the PMD connected at when it was on the IP. this way you will never have to worry about it again. also install the rest of the bolts holding the lower intake for safety. if it does run away with only the outer 4 bolts holding it you will never be able to shut it down. it will suck the intake gasket in and keep on running away!

if your extension is long enough, move the PMD to the hole in the front bumper with the fins of the heat sink facing the open hole to catch wind on the road. that so far is the best location getting it completely out of the engine compartment.
 
dbrannon79 said:
remove the resistor from the PMD and put it inside the connector of the extension where the PMD connected at when it was on the IP. this way you will never have to worry about it again. also install the rest of the bolts holding the lower intake for safety. if it does run away with only the outer 4 bolts holding it you will never be able to shut it down. it will suck the intake gasket in and keep on running away!

if your extension is long enough, move the PMD to the hole in the front bumper with the fins of the heat sink facing the open hole to catch wind on the road. that so far is the best location getting it completely out of the engine compartment.
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Bumper on My truck is a handmade unit. There is no holes for improved draft.
I have the not pump mounted drivers attached behind that bumper, about upper frame rail level.
The only PMDs thats been burned out was the one original on the truck when I bought the truck. As soon as this truck got me back to town, after the purchase, i went to Big Os and ordered in a new Dorman PMD.
About five days later, I had not yet picked up that PMD, driving the three miles out to My sisters, engine did a runaway, redline, idle, redline, idle just a rippin and a tearin and finally made it to my sisters with many spurts of black smoke.
Sister give me a ride to Big Os, got the PMD and truck was pretty much back to normal.
It was then that I discovered that one of the diesel truck parts suppliers had the Stanadyne grey box drivers, ordered one of those and the adapter wire harness, installed that and poked the Dorman in the jokey box with the components to install it, just in case.
That Stanadyne burned out because I didnt have the time to purchase new batteries and install them, a low voltage situation killed that PMD.
Got another grey box but also got the extension harness for the Stanadyne grey box from Leroy Diesel, now both drivers are mounted behind the bumper and the Dorman harness was fastened by the IP with the protective plug poked into it. Just waiting.
Now with this Air Dog LP system, I’m thinking as deep as the front bumper is, maybe the AD would be better mounted behind that, then the ends of the filters Would not be below the frame rails at all.
As it now will be setting, about an inch of filter hangs below the frame rail.
Most normally I am never in situations that would cause a filter to get damaged, but, it would take but only one time.
Guess I better be for packing spare filters.
 
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