Codes. Truck won’t move

[CBR consulting]

So this is what I found for ignition switch

Wasn’t able to find any other diagram

Will check some more wiring tonight after work

 

[dbrannon79]

ok, I would say start at the ignition switch as long as all of your fuses in both the dash and under hood box are good along with none missing.

you will need to remove the plastic covering over the column behind the steering wheel to get to the ignition switch connector iirc.

looking at the pin out you posted, with the key off you should have b+ power on pin F and pin B. verify and move on.

Next turn the key to the run position, you should now see B+ power on pins A, C, E, and G.

the way these switches work is they are split into two sections with two power inputs and 4 outputs when the key is in the run position.

If one of the input wires are lacking power, we need to trace it up to the battery. if one of the 4 other wires are lacking power when the two inputs are good, then you have a faulty ignition switch.

try this and we can eliminate the switch as being an issue.

 

[CBR consulting]

All values are at 12.volts.

Yesterday The weather was horrible so didn’t have any time

 

[dbrannon79]

Well, it's time to begin tracing the two leads back from the TCM till you find where it has power. I wish I had more info on the schematic for you. maybe others might have access to them. I know @denata has impressed me with his knowledge of electrical on these rigs. he might have some help to share.

 

[dbrannon79]

Just have patience, usually with my luck, 9 times out of 10 the issue is right under my nose staring me in the face the whole time when I finally find it.

 

[CBR consulting]

So I was second guessing myself so I went back out before it gets dark and checked again

With key on. At the grey connector. I have 12.3 volts and pin 2,3,4



That is with key in the on position

 

[dbrannon79]

it happens with the best of us.. continue on down the steps posted. see where you end up.

 

[CBR consulting]

Stay tuned. Will have a look again after work down the steps

 

[denata]

 

[denata]

0713

 

[CBR consulting]

So step 4 I can’t do as my scanner doesn’t have a function to command solenoids.

I went threw the remaining steps I get all the way to step 6.

Ohm 22/33. 6.8
Ohm L/M. 6.8


So from what I have read now i guess it’s time to drop the pan and check the solenoid and harness.

Sucks cause I had DHD in Michigan. Go threw that valve body and they put new harness pressure switch

 

[dbrannon79]

So step 4 I can’t do as my scanner doesn’t have a function to command solenoids.

I went threw the remaining steps I get all the way to step 6.

Ohm 22/33. 6.8
Ohm L/M. 6.8


So from what I have read now i guess it’s time to drop the pan and check the solenoid and harness.

Sucks cause I had DHD in Michigan. Go threw that valve body and they put new harness pressure switch

Is there any warranty on the work they did?

Even if no warranty. It might be worth a phone call to them giving them the details of what it’s doing and the codes. Telling them the steps you’ve done testing the harness and things leading up to the trans.

If all else checks out the only two things that are left is the TCM and the trans

 

[dbrannon79]

Honestly for what it’s worth I would at least think it should have 2nd gear and reverse (trans limp mode)

 

[CBR consulting]

Honestly for what it’s worth I would at least think it should have 2nd gear and reverse (trans limp mode)

Will do the checks tomorrow.

It seems weird as when I first put the valve body back in I was able to clear the code and get it to move forward and reverse. As I think that it was in limp. Now I can’t even get the code to clear to even get it to move ,

If I unplug the 20 way connector I do get forward and reverse . As you guys have said that’s limp aswell

 

[dbrannon79]

Keep chugging along on the steps. something that occurred to me. has the trans or engine ever been pulled? check the harness up around the trans bell housing to see if any wires could have possibly gotten sammiched between the block and trans. this is a common oops that happens to everyone and will cause some hair pulling figuring out what happened.

 

[dbrannon79]

Same thing could have happened in the trans with the valve body, bolts, and internal harness.

 

[CBR consulting]

Solenoid A and B. Ohm at 5.6. That’s with pan dropped and harness unplugged.
It’s currently 10 degrees Celsius out


L/m terminal. 5.6

Terminal 22/23 on red connector 5.6


I’m lost

 

[denata]

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Check for short to housing, resistance between the solenoid winding and the housing. Could the wire insulation be damaged?

 

[CBR consulting]

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Check for short to housing, resistance between the solenoid winding and the housing. Could the wire insulation be damaged?

Would you be able to explain a bit more for me

 

[denata]

One ohmmeter probe is on the gearbox housing, the second probe is on the solenoid contacts.