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Changing 1994 6.5 For 1990 6.2

Ok, Roller rockers is not in my budget right now, but I'm pulling the valve covers and expect to find a button gone. I've looked everywhere else for a valve chatter noise, and its either injectors or buttons. I have a badly leaking valve cover, so its a reason to fix it. Good luck with your project. I have a slightly used Heath lift pump if you need one. It puts out good pressure, but went to prefilter set up.
 
I got the cam out Tuesday afternoon. To my untrained eye the cam is in real good condition.

It's hard to see the bearings down in the cam bore with the crank still in place. But, if the condition of the first bearing is an indicator, they all are in good shape then. The first bearing, to me, looks to be in better shape with less wear that the rod bearings. The first pic is looking down towards the crank. To me this area should show the wear, if any, as this is where I think downwards pressure from the timing chain tension would transfer pressure. You can see a difference in coloration towards the inside edge where the cam bearing race on the cam didn't touch. IMGP1465.JPG
In this pic the crank is off the pic in the upper left corner. This pic is not as clear as the first, but it still seems to me like it shows a bearing in good condition. If anybody can see something in either pic that raises concerns please speak up.
IMGP1466.JPG

I spent yesterday morning using a pressure washer on the transmission crossover support (and related parts), and inside the engine bay of the pickup. I still have more to do, but I decided to wait overnight to let the wet, muddy gravel dry some as I need to lay down on the gravel to do cleaning underneath in the transmission area (I'm not fond of having to lay in mud and water). The whole engine bay, and underneath just behind the bay, was greasy and oily from the blowby, and oil loss from around the oil filter adapter. I didn't realize the adapter was leaking that much, but it was real wet from oil in that area.

Friends from church do the Hood To Coast Race relay run and walk every year, and they use our Astro van for a chase vehicle. Our son is volunteering again this year also. He will be at one of the check stations somewhere along the way. So, the rest of the day went to getting the van ready, and also in town looking for misc parts for the pickup and my compressor.

Don
 
Quick question-- the cam is back in and I'm starting to put the lifters back in. The oil galley that supplies the lifters is to the upper side of the lifter bore. The lifters have an oiler hole on one side of the lifter. Since the oil galley spans over 100* of the circumference of the lifter bore, which coincides with the area of the hole in the lifter. The lifter keepers keep the roller in the correct line for the cam, and this means the oiler hole in the lifter must either point forwards or backwards. Is it important which way this oiler hole faces, forwards or backwards? I'm thinking it is not important because in either position it is in the same proximity to the oil galley.

Don
 
I don't think it matters since the lifter has the oil relief cut around it but I would have all of them installed in the same orientation for the most even flow. I'm not a 6.5/6.2 guru though.
 
Well, I have the lifters installed already. But, I did just what you suggested Mike. I tried to find a chart showing the oil flow path but couldn't find one without spending too much time. So, using what ak diesel driver said, I assumed the oil would be flowing from back to front in that galley. Consequently, all the lifter oil holes are facing towards the back, towards where I think the oil flow is coming from, hopefully to give them the best advantage.

Don
 
I missed the last few posts somehow, anyways looked in my recently found manual. I didn't see anything on lifter direction. Just these:
image.jpg image.jpg
 
Thank you Will for those two pics. Some very valuable info there for me.

The only thing I didn't do as related in the directions for the first pic was to prime the lifter. However, these weren't dry lifters as they were previously in use in the motor. There were also torque specs in both pics that I was wondering about.

On a side note, I am hoping to be able to prime the oil system before startup. I plan to use the cam/oil pump drive out of the 6.5, which will leave me the vacuum pump/oil pump drive from the 6.2. I'm hoping that I will be able to use that drive to prime the oil system.

Will, since I now know you have that book I'm likely going to be asking more specific questions about certain things during the process of putting things back together. I hope you don't mind my possibly bugging you for more info.

Don
 
Will, How do you source that TSM online? Google EBay ect... turn up nothing. I'm not searching with right query
 
Mine is a printed copy from a cd for 1995 hummer. The online one here is nice quick access. I bought my copy years before finding TTS.
I prefer paper (except when i loose it for 6 months). If I didn't have this copy I would print a ream from the one here.
Anything you can't find, just ask. I'll check if I can find it.
 
I got the oil cooler hose kit, Injector washers and FFM orings.
Selling the Gapless rings at cost.
 
GM Guy said:
Is there an updated list of stuff that is needed? I have some gaskets and other stuff if you need it.
Click to expand...

WarWagon said:
X2 and again post the list here if so...
Click to expand...

I currently have the front main seal, gaskets for front housing, water pump, water crossover, and intake manifold. I ordered a lower gasket kit which should have the rear main, pan gasket, turbo return plate (mechanical fuel pump), and gasket for the top end of the oil pump drive that is in the valley. It seems like there was something else in the kit, but my memory isn't working. However, early tomorrow morning I will pick up that kit since I have a message on my answering machine that it has come in.

Anyway, by tomorrow evening I will have a better idea of what I do, or don't, have. One thing I do know I haven't got yet is a head gasket. I held off on ordering that until I could confirm it was a standard thickness, which I'm almost 100% certain now that it is. So, ordering that is next.

I need to finish power washing under the pickup (messy), then start with putting the trans, TC, and drive shaft back in.

Don
 
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