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Changing 1994 6.5 For 1990 6.2

I'm finally getting to the point where I've got sort of a list made up. I didn't want to get too far ahead and end up with something I didn't really need, or find out I needed something I didn't have. Here's my list so far. I just need some other eyes and brains to make sure I'm not missing something.

1. standard rings for 6.2, gapless if I can swing the cost. I'm thinking it will be better to get file-to-fit since I'm dealing with re-ringing a used cylinder and not a fresh bore job.
2. Head bolts, I would like to go with studs because that's my personality, but in order to keep cost down I'm willing to go with TTY bolts (gapless rings take precedence).
3. timing chain (cloyes because of recommendations)
4. rear main seal? I'm leaning this way just because I'm already in this far
5. freeze plugs (same reason as #4, and they are not expensive to do now, but later?)
6. injector return lines w/spring clamps
7. copper injector gaskets. injectors are Bosch/India ones with only about 20K miles on them, may try to find someone local that can pop test them for me just to make sure.
8. Fel-Pro gskts, rebuild set
9. block heater? haven't tested the one currently in the 6.2, my digital multi-meter wasn't in my tool box of electrical wiring stuff and haven't taken the time to figure out where it may be.
10. transfer case to adapter gasket (the O-ring for the trans side is still in good shape) would just using RTV work for this since this are doesn't normally have any oil, unless some leaks past seals?
11. assembly lube, what's the best stuff to use? and exactly how is the best way to use it?

Is there anything I have missed?

The next items are dreaming, unless I can figure out a way to do them inexpensively.
12. remote oil filter, would be handy since my pickup is 4WD
13. remote trans cooler to move the stock cooler away from the radiator for more efficient cooling stack, also since the trans has just been rebuilt this would be a good time to make that change. (I do tow a travel trailer, about 7-8K loaded including what I put in the back of the pickup)
14. remote engine oil cooler, same reasons as #13

I know the above three items are not critical, but I can dream can't I.

Again, I'm looking for feedback on this list as I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on an order. Leroy, I'm looking at your web site and will probably need to call you since not everything on my list is listed on your site.

Don
 
I can donate the oil cooler hose kit and injector washers. Might have a one piece main seal around here too?
 
Thank you Leroy!

I'm not sure yet since I haven't pulled the rear main cap, but from what I've found I think it's a two piece rear main. I will have to check that out.

Our church is having a family camp this weekend up at Silver Creek Falls State Park this week end. I didn't think we would be able to camp out there this weekend, but out neighbor offered to let us use their pickup, so we will actually be able to go. Silver Creek is only about 40 miles away from home.

We are so blessed with good neighbors, friends, and church family.

Don
 
Hey all- are the lifters, pushrods, and rocker arms the same 6.2-6.5? I'm thinking they are, but not sure.

If so then Don, pm me your address and I'll send you all those and some lubriplate 105 assembly grease. I've used it on tons of engines and never any problems. Approx 70k on the parts from a 99 savanna I got my turbo and manifolds from.
 
Leroy, I checked this morning and it is definitely a two piece rear main.

ak diesel driver said:
Don not trying to rain on your parade but before you go ordering parts verify that the 6.2 you have has the right oil pan. See MGWs thread http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/oil-pan-tech-for-6-2-6-5-engines.25515/
Click to expand...

Ak, good call. I went out this morning and checked as per the info in Missy's thread. My first thought was that my 6.2 and 6.5 pans were identical. Double checking, and going by Missy's description, visibly the pans are identical. The drain plugs are in the same location, the correct indentations for the IFS front differential are present, the boss silver soldered on for the tube for the dip stick are in the same location. The only difference is in the arch for the rear main seal. The 6.2 pan, and block, is definitely for the two piece rear main.

The 6.2 block already has the pan that is needed for my front IFS differential. GOOD DEAL!! This was something I never even expected, and thanks to ak I know for sure now that I have the correct pan.

ps: this also means that there will be a difference in the pan gasket for the two piece rear main.

Will L. said:
Hey all- are the lifters, pushrods, and rocker arms the same 6.2-6.5? I'm thinking they are, but not sure.

If so then Don, pm me your address and I'll send you all those and some lubriplate 105 assembly grease. I've used it on tons of engines and never any problems. Approx 70k on the parts from a 99 savanna I got my turbo and manifolds from.
Click to expand...

Will, thank you. I'm not sure how to measure them, but visibly the rockers are identical. I put the 6.2 rockers on my 6.5 heads and they seem to fit good. Both sets of pushrods measure out to 8 13/16ths. Sorry, I can't measure in decimals as my digital calipers only go to 8 inches, but I'm an old cabinetmaker and am experienced at measuring with a tape measure down to approximately 64ths of an inch, and I ONLY use Stanley tapes as they are the most accurate. As soon as I finish this post I will PM you my address.

This next question is for anybody. Something I just thought about since I was looking at the rockers. I remember reading a thread, or maybe it was just a post, about changing the nylon locator buttons out for some bolts. With a quick search I was unable to find it, but maybe somebody else is better at a search than I am. Is this button change a worthwhile mod? I tend to over think things, and go into overkill mode.

Don
 
Last edited:
Im not sure about the bolts to replace the rocker button thread, sounds smart to me. But that is not overkill mode by any means. Wish i had done it last time my covers were off.
 
Leroy, I'm going to hold off ordering until next week to give me/others time to make any needed changes to the list (also, since we are actually able to go to Family Camp I need some time getting prepared for this last minute decision). This should also give you more heads up time to figure out what items on my list you are able to supply.

Don
 
New nylon rocker buttons are the way to go. Never seen the bolt method and it could wear things hard vs the nylon. I haven't changed the buttons myself, but, got lucky. The 92 is getting a set as they are cheap and I am changing rockers anyway.
 
so do you need a 6.5L valve?

Check the airbox and see what kind of shape the fingers are in, I have one stuff is all stressed and tweaked and wont seal right. Maybe this is why your old engine was scored up? I will see what I can do for an airbox.

The flat panels have to be perfect to seal correctly, all that matters is the duct on the K47, the box can be pretty rough and it wont matter.
 
I think that's the only thing WW, Leroy and I were talking and I told him to take it off the list. Don, you should see that set on Mon. or Tue. and I have a track # if it doesn't show.
 
OH! Just put 2 and 2 together, Robert Whyte = hookedup50 and here I thought it was FB :)
 
All this social media makes it hard to keep track of the same person. WW, I don't blame you for not doing FB. I swore I never would, but career change forced it upon me.
 
Just another quick update. We were without power for several hours this morning, no computer, no lights, etc. So, instead of getting very much done I went with my daughter to Silverton (35 miles one way) and picked up a cabinet she bought. The timing chain that hookedup50 sent came in the mail this weekend. Many thanks Rob!!

WW, as I remember it, the nylon rocker buttons were replaced with a bolt (stainless?), copper/brass washer, and lock nut (not nylock because of heat concerns). The copper washer was to mitigate any wear problems against the rocker. However, I will go with the bolt method over new buttons only if I can find that info, and there is proof that no problems will result from that mod.

GM Guy, I was able to use an exhaust valve out of the 6.2 head. I lapped it in so that 6.5 head should be good to go now. Good call on questioning the stock flat panel filter system. It is possible that is where the problem started from, although there are also pieces missing from the top edges of at least two pistons. However, a couple years back, or so, I changed to an AEM (?) round filter. With this I modified a gasser filter box that is almost the same as a K47 air box, and swapped locations for the battery and air box. I now have my air box up front, and drawing air directly through the radiator support.

One of my plans for today was to start taping off and painting parts. But, I couldn't find the new roll of masking tape I stashed away so I wouldn't lose it. Go figure! So, my wife is going to pick up a new, non-stashed away, roll of tape on her way home from work.

Don
 
Sorry to kinda hijack thread Don, but if there is another thread on that rocker button mod, can someone post a link to it. Thanks.
 
Rob, I don't consider that a hijack. It is something that I am very interested in also.

ANYTHING that is in some remote way connected to this budget build is not a hijack. I'm very interested in learning.

Don
 
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