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Changing 1994 6.5 For 1990 6.2

I just happened to think of something else just now. When I was breaking down the motor I removed the front housing without removing or touching the IP location on the housing. I did this because I don't have a way to re-time the electronic IP. I was hoping that this would get the motor running again until I could find somebody in my area that had a way to do the timing, or could afford to get the computer program for myself.

What is the consensus on this? Am I temporarily OK with this? According to my thoughts I'm OK as I think the timing will be reasonably close to what it was before. Especially since it is run by computer.

I know I'm going to have more questions as things progress, especially dealing with ring gap spacing.

Don
 
That is good Will!

I recently got back from town with the lower gasket set. I'm real short on time at the moment, but it looks like the only gaskets I'm missing are the head gaskets and two for the coolant crossover (I have two, but I need four).

Got to go. I have a 10:15 appointment in Salem (about 25 miles away) and I need to allow enough time to find parking in an area I'm not familiar with.

Don
 
Maybe these will work
 

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I'm not sure why I asked what brand the head gaskets were. That makes it seem like I'm not appreciative of all the help I'm getting, which is definitely not the case. My apologies. My biggest concern is shipping damage. Can something like fragile and easily damaged by bending like head gaskets be safely shipped? If there is a way to safely ship them, I'd be willing to accept them. If you have a way to ship them go ahead and PM me and I will send you my address.

Don
 
I have a set of Fel-Pro head gaskets if you want. no guarantees on damage unfortunately, but USPS hasn't been too bad. I have other gaskets as well.

Do you have a seal driver for the front crank seal?
 
GM Guy said:
I have a set of Fel-Pro head gaskets if you want. no guarantees on damage unfortunately, but USPS hasn't been too bad. I have other gaskets as well.

Do you have a seal driver for the front crank seal?
Click to expand...

Thanks, but I think AK is sending a set of Fel-Pro head gaskets.

I made a seal driver (plastic pipe with a pipe cap) three or four years ago when I replaced the stock harmonic damper with a Fluid Damper. My big concern right now is replacing the rear main seal. I have never replaced a two piece seal while the crank is still in place. I don't think I will tackle that this weekend though as we have a family wedding this afternoon. Too much going on and I want to focus on the seal, without distractions. My wife's extended family is here from as far away as Michigan. We had a dinner yesterday afternoon that included both families, and must have been somewhere around 70-80 in attendance.

Opps! I just realized that I started this reply this morning, but didn't post it. So, here it is.

Don
 
Need a packing puller for the upper seal removal and an install tool (like a heavy duty Chinese handcuffs) to pull a new one in.
 
btfarm said:
Need a packing puller for the upper seal removal and an install tool (like a heavy duty Chinese handcuffs) to pull a new one in.
Click to expand...

This is something I'm not familiar with. Could you please describe and explain? I have a picture in my mind for this, like a Chinese fingerpull toy, but I need to have this clarified. Do you have pictures and a detailed description of how to do this? I tried googling for videos, but all I found was videos and articles that talked about doing this, but didn't show the tools in action.

Don
 
Google the Kent Moore J-22102, its other purpose is front cover alignment as well as driving that seal home in 3 wacks. :)

If you think you could use it, I will get it moving off ebay and headed your way, then you could write www.thetruckstop.us on the side in sharpie, and mail it to the next guy that needs it. They are a little heavy to ship, but IMO the weight is part of the receipe for success as a seal driver.

If you think you could use it, PM your shipping adress.
 
Ak, the package arrived already, safe and sound. I spent the afternoon helping a friend that had his house broken into Monday night, and when I got home last night there it was! That was so fast that the gorilla's at USPS must not have had enough time to even see it. Absolutely no damage to the package.

Thank You!!
Don
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KD-492-Rear-Main-Oil-Seal-Remover-and-Installer-/221856295985

I see the new ones have a clip thing that grabs the seal half. The old ones are like you suggested Don as a finger pull toy or chinese handcuff.
upload_2015-9-9_13-21-25.png

Here is a surgical metal type that is nearly identical to the older ones.
upload_2015-9-9_13-19-54.png

However, I thought just about every rope type seal had been converted to an equivalent 2 piece roll in molded seal that most parts stores could look up and it will work as well (or better)
 
Surgical? Those look like electrician's wire pulls to me..

The last pic is similar to what I used to use/ sell.
 
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